1969 Imperial progress thread
- Thread starter vdk2010
- Start date
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Can't wait for the topside.
The saddest thing, most of us here will never get the chance to see this car in person, but so glad you are posting all the progress pictures. First Class!
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,149
- Reaction score
- 27,303
Fanfrickingtastic!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Beyond "Fanfrickingtastic! "
"
I'm sooooo unsure about the color again. I had the car out in the Sun today and in every light the paint looks totally different.....
But in the sun, the paint looks a little bit "dull?" "feeble?" (I don't know how to descript what I mean exactly) in my opinion. But maybe it looks completely different when perfectly slooth and mirror like on the top of the car...?!
I'm taking the trunk lid to the painter again tomorrow to get a part of it polished and check the paint AGAIN....
But in the sun, the paint looks a little bit "dull?" "feeble?" (I don't know how to descript what I mean exactly) in my opinion. But maybe it looks completely different when perfectly slooth and mirror like on the top of the car...?!
I'm taking the trunk lid to the painter again tomorrow to get a part of it polished and check the paint AGAIN....
3175375
Senior Member
I think it’s going to look very elegant!
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2010
- Messages
- 2,869
- Reaction score
- 2,651
In one of those pictures I saw the footprints of a fly that must have walked across the underside.
I might be wrong as I was not wearing my glasses and I was standing 20 feet from my computer.
Otherwise it looks nice ............
I might be wrong as I was not wearing my glasses and I was standing 20 feet from my computer.
Otherwise it looks nice ............
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Actually....
If it's showing properly on my monitor, I
the color.
If it's showing properly on my monitor, I
the color.
You are right. But I killed that sob!
No it's not. The camera can't catch the color correctly. But it looks even better in person!Actually....
If it's showing properly on my monitor, I
Every picture of the color looks completely different. And the color on the car looks completely different in any light also... It's a difficult color, but I love it.
We polished part of the trunk lid this morning and the color is 99% correct!
Even on this picture is looks much more different than it actually is.
It's the slightest amount more bluish (purple), but only if you lay the two pieces on top of each other. Holding them 5 inches away from each other you can't tell the difference.
So the color stays as is! I'm just a little nervous before finishing this huge chapter of the restoration.
I have sleepless nights because if this...
Last edited:
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'll never see the real color...
Maybe it should go on World tour?....
Then I can say, I remember shaking my head when he bought this.
Maybe it should go on World tour?....
Then I can say, I remember shaking my head when he bought this.
I dream of doing a cross country tour through the US with that car someday since I have it, but shipping it across the pond is way too risky unfortunately.
But you should come to Germany someday! Maybe during the BBTR show?!
Everyone, including me, shook their heads when I bought this car
But you should come to Germany someday! Maybe during the BBTR show?!
Everyone, including me, shook their heads when I bought this car
What is the paint code? It just doesn't look like a Mopar paint chart color. Looks like it will change appearance in bright sunlight.
It is factory M9 Deep Plum! At least as close as it can be mixed these days since the original paint contains lead, which is not possible to get anymore.
The change of color in bright sunlight you mentioned is what this color does, Bob.
The original Brake Rotors from the '72 Imperial parts car still have plenty of life left in them. So I removed the old wheel studs to separate the Hubs from the Rotors.
The Rotors were immersion derusted, turned, and then painted.
The Hubs were freed from all the old grease packed into them, the old bearing races were punched out, then they were media blasted, zinc plated and then painted and new bearing races were pressed in.
After that, Rotors and Hubs were pressed together again using brand new wheel studs. It took 4400 PSI to press them back together..!
Combines with new Timken bearings, new seals and new dust caps, they are ready to go back onto the car!
The Rotors were immersion derusted, turned, and then painted.
The Hubs were freed from all the old grease packed into them, the old bearing races were punched out, then they were media blasted, zinc plated and then painted and new bearing races were pressed in.
After that, Rotors and Hubs were pressed together again using brand new wheel studs. It took 4400 PSI to press them back together..!
Combines with new Timken bearings, new seals and new dust caps, they are ready to go back onto the car!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
wow....
8-3/4 rear Axle 489 Casing Sure Grip Center Section.
PART 1/2
I'm not particularly happy with my knowledge about adjusting the center section correctly.
I have a few Questions and hope someone can answer them.
I bought a book to help me, but I have to say it's not very helpful.
Here is my current status:
I've cleaned all the parts, inspected them, painted the case etc.
Then I welded up a frame and mounted the case on the vise.
I even made myself a tool to hold the Yoke while torquing the Pinion Nut.
I think I have everything to complete the assembly and adjusting process.
So far so good.
First, I reassembled the sure grip unit without bigger problems.
The cones are in great condition and have plenty of live in them, so I decided to not get them turned and shim them.
I’m going to use Green Bearings when assembling the Axle.
Just recently I've read, that when I do that, I don’t have to use the thrust block in the middle of the sure grip.
Now, my question is, do I HAVE to remove it or is it optional?
If so, I must disassemble the Sure Grip again to remove it…
Next, I've honed out a Set of inner and outer pinion shaft bearings as setup bearing so I don't have to press the bearings on and off a couple of times during adjustment.
Next was the Crush Sleeve Eliminator’s turn. I measured the old Crush Sleeve and added shims to the Eliminator to get a good starting point for setting up the correct Pinion Depth.
PART 1/2
I'm not particularly happy with my knowledge about adjusting the center section correctly.
I have a few Questions and hope someone can answer them.
I bought a book to help me, but I have to say it's not very helpful.
Here is my current status:
I've cleaned all the parts, inspected them, painted the case etc.
Then I welded up a frame and mounted the case on the vise.
I even made myself a tool to hold the Yoke while torquing the Pinion Nut.
I think I have everything to complete the assembly and adjusting process.
So far so good.
First, I reassembled the sure grip unit without bigger problems.
The cones are in great condition and have plenty of live in them, so I decided to not get them turned and shim them.
I’m going to use Green Bearings when assembling the Axle.
Just recently I've read, that when I do that, I don’t have to use the thrust block in the middle of the sure grip.
Now, my question is, do I HAVE to remove it or is it optional?
If so, I must disassemble the Sure Grip again to remove it…
Next, I've honed out a Set of inner and outer pinion shaft bearings as setup bearing so I don't have to press the bearings on and off a couple of times during adjustment.
Next was the Crush Sleeve Eliminator’s turn. I measured the old Crush Sleeve and added shims to the Eliminator to get a good starting point for setting up the correct Pinion Depth.
Similar threads
