1969 Imperial progress thread

[MrMoparCHP]

My body guy just sanded my to metal, went fast. It took him longer to skim it than it took to strip it.
This was a full spin type sander 4-6" disc, not a DA or vibration sander. I think about 36 grit.
The full car was stripped this way.

(bottom center in this picture)

Alan

 

[300rag]

Another option

 

[vdk2010]

The car should have originally had three layers of paint so it looks like it was primered and painted again sometime in its life. Maybe the bondo was done then.
With regards to paint stripper, check with the local aerodrome and find a place there that repaints aircraft. They are sure to be able to tell you what sort of paint stripper they use.

I have cracks with white layers shining through all over the right door and quarter panel and white "bondo worms" coming through tiny holes inside the door skin that would indicate a repaired passenger side damage!
Bummer.

I do have a glider airfield in town, but the environmental regulations are Europe-wide and I don't thing they would have a good stripper also?!

Can you still get lye in Germany?
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/v...d-recipe-paint-stripper.html#/forumsite/21081

I think we can. I'll ask my brother, he is a pharmacist and should be able to get it if possible! I'll try that.

Chemical stripping is a mess and you can't find the "good" strippers anyway. Since you want to do as much as you can yourself, I suggest these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-1-2-x7-8-...165?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3d16f06d along with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Harbor Fright actually makes a decent throw away version, but I like my Dewalt.

Figure on 40 or so of those discs to strip the car... maybe more... so shop for the best price. (I just grabbed the first one I saw). You do have to watch out for heat as they will warp the panel if you don't use some common sense.

I've stripped panels with these and they do a great job.

One other thing... NEVER BUY THE PAINT STRIPPER AT CARLISLE. You guys know... across from the food court. That stuff sucks.

I do have a DA air grinder and 40 grid sanding discs. I did the sanding seen in the pictures with it, but it is very time consuming. I saw the so called "Negerkeks" (black fellow citizens cookie?!) but they are quite expensive and I thought I'll try other options first. But I will try this option as well! My point is, I'm searching for a good universal method that also works for the little corners, folds and hard to get spots and grinders are too big to reach those spots.

My body guy just sanded my to metal, went fast. It took him longer to skim it than it took to strip it.
This was a full spin type sander 4-6" disc, not a DA or vibration sander. I think about 36 grit.
The full car was stripped this way.
(bottom center in this picture)
Alan

I will look for a full spin type sander if you say they are better then the DA type sanders!

Another option

I saw this video before and tried that as well, but with little success. As the guy said in the video, it's good if you only have primer, but not so much with 45 years old factory paint.

 

[Big_John]

A discussion on the HAMB about stripping cars.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-strip-a-car.454498/

 

[Tink]

You two know each other?

Now that right there is funny..............

 

[Tink]

This is the latest tech on finish removal. http://dustlessblasting.com/
The best tech before this is media blasting using a plethora of media from crushed walnut shells to crushed glass. Both of these methods are messy but thorough. 36 grit paper will leave 36 grit scratches and remove 36 grit amounts of metal but going finer, even up to 60 grit clogs too fast to be productive.

Whichever method, you need to have enough etching primer on hand. Wear gloves and work fast. Rust waits for no one.

edited: I forgot to mention a question I have. Just what do you do with the chemically removed finish? You have a solvent saturated toxic goo.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I do have a DA air grinder and 40 grid sanding discs. I did the sanding seen in the pictures with it, but it is very time consuming. I saw the so called "Negerkeks" (black fellow citizens cookie?!) but they are quite expensive and I thought I'll try other options first. But I will try this option as well! My point is, I'm searching for a good universal method that also works for the little corners, folds and hard to get spots and grinders are too big to reach those spots.

I will look for a full spin type sander if you say they are better then the DA type sanders!

Most DA units have a collar that will lock the head causing to fully spin.



Alan

 

[cm23uoc]

You'll probably have to Combine a few methods to have it all done.

Different sorts of wire brushes work fine (Change Spinning directions from time to time for more efficency) for many Corners and especially this one lasts pretty Long. I used a single one for a low Budget resto of the lower half of my then DD on a power drill with high rpm including the outer skin to take the paint down, the Surface will be not as smooth as with a sander or the "Cookie" but warping is near impossible and you can smooth out the Surface by sanding the bare metal a bit afterwards.

http://www.technolit.de/cms_dl/deDE/agid.940

 

[vdk2010]

This is the latest tech on finish removal. http://dustlessblasting.com/
The best tech before this is media blasting using a plethora of media from crushed walnut shells to crushed glass. Both of these methods are messy but thorough. 36 grit paper will leave 36 grit scratches and remove 36 grit amounts of metal but going finer, even up to 60 grit clogs too fast to be productive.

Whichever method, you need to have enough etching primer on hand. Wear gloves and work fast. Rust waits for no one.

edited: I forgot to mention a question I have. Just what do you do with the chemically removed finish? You have a solvent saturated toxic goo.

I tried to find this is Germany, but without success... The best I could find was water blasting, but I'm not willing to pay 2500€ just for blasting the car.

I can dump the chemical waste at the local landfill. That's no problem!

You'll probably have to Combine a few methods to have it all done.

Different sorts of wire brushes work fine (Change Spinning directions from time to time for more efficency) for many Corners and especially this one lasts pretty Long. I used a single one for a low Budget resto of the lower half of my then DD on a power drill with high rpm including the outer skin to take the paint down, the Surface will be not as smooth as with a sander or the "Cookie" but warping is near impossible and you can smooth out the Surface by sanding the bare metal a bit afterwards.

http://www.technolit.de/cms_dl/deDE/agid.940

That's exactly what I did today! I bought 3 twisted wire wheels for my angle grinder on Ebay for just 12€ (http://r.ebay.com/E6WGw5)

It doesn't have two directions but it worked very well all the time!

I started with an untouched area and it was harder to do than on the areas where I put the stripper yesterday. It's not a good paint stripper as a single solution, but softened the paint so that I could remove the paint much easier.

That's what happens when you try to scratch down the paint stripper with a blade.



The wire wheel is time consuming, but at least it works!


I ordered the black cookies today and will try them as well but I'm pretty happy with my first days result!

 

[vdk2010]

Man, removing the rear quarter window, the guides and the regulator is a bi*ch...! I finally made it but I have absolutely no clue how to get everything back in there and assembled again!


How do I remove the motor from the regulator without killing me?

 

[ceebuddy]

Something like that should do the trick. Just clamp down the two levers of the regulator connected and under pressure by the spring, then remove the motor.

 

[vdk2010]

I thought so too, but after removing the motor, I still have two pieces under spring pressure I need separate.

 

[vdk2010]

The most obvious way was the easiest..! I just removed the spring carefully from the holdback pin with a pair of pliers. Safe 'n' easy ;)

 

[vdk2010]

About paint removal. I'm absolutely amazed about these "cookies". It took halt the time then with the wire wheel!

They consume up pretty quickly tho.

 

[commando1]

For us guys near a Garbage Freight, these cookies are also $4.00 each like the ebay listing.
But no shipping. The ebay guy wants 18 bucks.

 

[vdk2010]

For us guys near a Garbage Freight, these cookies are also $4.00 each like the ebay listing.
But no shipping. The ebay guy wants 18 bucks.

I paid 5€ with free shipping on ebay.

 

[obelix]

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I don't think my guy went through 6 sanding discs on my entire car when removing the paint, then again I didn't have a repaint adding more layers.

I don't think he spent 5 minutes on a panel stripping it.


Alan

 

[vdk2010]

The normal paint is really easy to remove, but the finger thick bondo eats up the cookies pretty quick. But I made good progress today, at least until I had to learn that the protective cover on an angle grinder is there for a reason... The cut is, lets say bad to the bone... -_-

Is this messy butchering job on the roof seam factory work?

 

[vdk2010]

I tried several strippers with absolutely no success..!