1969 Imperial progress thread

Don't sandblast again. You remove good metal every time you media blast. After the compressor is fixed, use a decent dual action sander, strip the rest of that crap off, then metal prep and use a good primer sealer. Too much thinking is going into preventing rust that will never happen in your lifetime.
 
[QUOTE="vdk2010, I was way to frustrated this summer and decided to let it sit for a while and start all over again with new motivation instead of working on the body with too much frustration...[/ATTACH]

But enought time passed without working on the car so I started sanding and grinding the whole car AGAIN last week.

Man, sanding sucks...QUOTE]

I feel your pain Julian. But your gaining on it. The body looks pretty solid, no surprises. The time will come when you look back and all that sanding and prep will just be a memory. (This is a time when a lot of guys just give up and lose motivation). Your perseverance is inspireing. That Imperial WILL live again.
 
As I said, I'm no painter, but I've never seen a good shop put anything like that on before priming.

We can all give you our half-assed advice, but we do have a painter/bodyman here... Ask Azblackhemi (Chris) what to do. I'm sure he can guide you.
 
Don't sandblast again. You remove good metal every time you media blast. After the compressor is fixed, use a decent dual action sander, strip the rest of that crap off, then metal prep and use a good primer sealer. Too much thinking is going into preventing rust that will never happen in your lifetime.
Yep!
 
Use the "brunex" product over the light surface rust. (if it's truly like a POR 15 designed to act as a sealer.) Don't sand/sandblast again. You're thinning the metal each time.

In the PPG product line, DP 40, 50, etc. Would be your first step on bare metal. I'm sure there is a German eqivilant.
 
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We can all give you our half-assed advice, but we do have a painter/bodyman here... Ask Azblackhemi (Chris) what to do. I'm sure he can guide you.
 
"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Chromate-Free 2K Epoxy Surfacer DP40 Surfacer D834 DP402 Hardener D835 DP40 is a versatile 2K Epoxy Surfacer. It is light grey in colour, chromate-free and has good corrosion resistance over bare metal.

DP40 has good adhesion to a wide variety of suitably prepared substrates. These include bare and galvanised steel, aluminium, GRP and fibreglass, painted surfaces and fillers, and a wide range of plastic substrates"
 
Por type paints are not too good on any sanded/blasted steel. Etching primer is what needs put on bare metal after a wax and grease remover then the epoxy primer or at least a sealer to keep any of that weird crap from surfacing later. UPOL makes a good etching primer and it is made in Europe. My 2 cents FWIW if Chris chimes in and says my info no good listen to him.
 
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Thanks Guys for your suggestions! It would be great if Chris could add his two cents! I will pm him and ask if he would do that! But you missed the point that the damn Fertan stuff had to go first, so I sanded it off as far as I could, but in the tight spots I can't reach with the excenter, I mediablasted it with glass bead abrasive. No harm to the metal at all! It just removed the old paint and loose surface rust, but nothing else.

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Vodka, the good news is, I doubt that anyone has so thoroughly gone down to bare metal as you have. That sheet metal must be as pristine as the day the car was assembled.

And I'll say it yet again, you're a mad man. :thumbsup:
 
Sandblast. Vacuum out excess material. Wipe down metal with PPG solvent/degreaser. Make sure the metal is super clean. Then spray on a good epoxy primer. If you live in a humid climate, you always should spray a primer before starting on body work tasks. Otherwise, you're going to have to get the rust off all over again.

In any event, good to see you back on it. Stay on it and try to stay motivated. I've seen too many projects that don't end up finished (a couple of mine included). Just tackle one task at a time. You'll get there. Good luck.
 
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I've read more about the Brunox now. It is, in fact, a primer because it's the Brunox Epoxy I bought. But they say you have to cover it with another primer if you want to let it sit for awhile because you should not wash it or whipe it with degreaser again after it's dry... Sooo, now I'm checking my options again. I need a good solution that protects the metal agains rust, can sit for longer periods of time and can stay on as the first layer of paint!?
 
Etch primer, then a good epoxy primer and it can sit out of the elements for quite some time. Mine was in epoxy (after etch of course) for a couple of years while slowly doing body and filler work.
 
That sounds like what I'm searching for! Now I have to find out what etch primer is in german. I haven't found something on a quick search. That have to wait until I'm home.
 
Haven't had to use etching primer yet but have realy good results with a good high build 2k epoxy primer.....used on my 91 and it sat for 7-8 years before paint
 
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