SeaFuse
Member
From my experience, and the OEM parts books, the boots had a locking clip on the minor diameter. Why would somebody simply not replace the boots? Who knows but time and hassle are probably reasons.
70 Chrysler
70 Imperial
Boot kit
NOT MINE 1970 Chrysler 300 *T code 440* Nebraska
- Thread starter Samplingman
- Start date
70 Chrysler
70 Imperial
Boot kit
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Maybe on the Imperial they did have a clip/clamp but in all my Plymouths I just slid the torsion bar back (after cleaning the bar crud) without any resistance from a clamp on the balloon seal.
From the 1970 & 71 Mopar Parts Catalog:
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
No comments on battery cables? I have seen better cables on cars with 200k+ miles
Alan
Alan
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Battery cables are pretty much par for the course for a car of this age, who knows how many gas station/vatoland wrench jockeys has put a 'Econo Power' battery in this puppy over the years. Hold down is hokey too...
.
SeaFuse
Member
You are correct, I was thinking of something different.
SeaFuse
Member
How about that fan shroud.
fury fan
Senior Member
Don't know on that, and don't have any pics of that from teh 70 300 that I had.
Ouch!
Also has a funny snip missing from the FT?
Those clips on the torsion bar pics -
In my experience, those clips go in a small groove in the anchor at the rearward end of the bar.
Boots don't have any clamps.,
The interface of bar-hex-into-socket is greased, but I presume that is mostly to prevent corrosion, and the boot helps keep dirt out as road splash will go that direction. (someone correct me if wrong)
I think the more we discuss this car - $2500.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah that's something to keep in mind as in another thread with someone wanting to do a in car rear main seal, I advised him to jack up the engine just a little to make getting at the pan bolts a little easier. Now just a little to some maybe more than others and this is how fan shrouds get broke. oops...
.
Well, not quite -- the bidding has breached theI think the more we discuss this car - $2500.
Last edited:
SeaFuse
Member
Here are pics of LH and RH valance and fender to bumper clearances.
SeaFuse
Member
The high-res images above didnt load. Here are some zoomed shots. At current eBay bidding, this one is a hard no based on potential surprises under the respray.
RH side shows fill around marker light and sand scratches under paint.
Wonder if bumper is off another car, and this one's chassis mounts are out of alignment. Bumper looks straight.
RH side shows fill around marker light and sand scratches under paint.
Wonder if bumper is off another car, and this one's chassis mounts are out of alignment. Bumper looks straight.
SeaFuse
Member
Valance supposed to be bent like that?
Maybe bumper is bent. LH side does not look straight compared to grill.
Maybe bumper is bent. LH side does not look straight compared to grill.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
There are a lot new people getting into C bodies, especially with the stupid prices for A, B and E body, even in junk condition. Just look at the Hurst that sold recently for $65K from BaT in another thread. So much wrong with that one, not only the price, but the buyer is going to jump in and drive.
$20K for a cool looking Mopar coupe with a 440 that visually and perhaps even mechanically looks great is a steal compared to what $20k would get you in the B body world. Yes you can certainly get a rusty runner for $2500, but no one wants to do that work anymore, and I can tell you first hand, you can do the work yourself and probably die before it is finished or pay someone $50K+ and go broke before you can pay for the gas.
It's unfortunate, but I think the days of $2500 complete and nice looking C bodies is behind us.
$20K for a cool looking Mopar coupe with a 440 that visually and perhaps even mechanically looks great is a steal compared to what $20k would get you in the B body world. Yes you can certainly get a rusty runner for $2500, but no one wants to do that work anymore, and I can tell you first hand, you can do the work yourself and probably die before it is finished or pay someone $50K+ and go broke before you can pay for the gas.
It's unfortunate, but I think the days of $2500 complete and nice looking C bodies is behind us.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Yea I hear ya on the A/B/E bodies, it's a hoot when a Charger shows up in the Mopar Junk Yard groups and the roasting begins whereas the only thing worth anything is the VIN plate and body number sections for anywhere of 14k to 30k$.
He's one such one that I have had in my picture bin for quite a while. Oh I forgot, this one's a bargain at 9 grand and a bonus it come with a *FREE* pallet!
.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Does this mean we should raise the standard FCBO offer to $3000 ?!?
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Nah, what fun would that be? Although, I am getting $3500 for may parts car….
Well, it sold for $19,000 after finally meeting reserve.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285089635109?nma=true&si=hUI5SbXS%2Br7rb0EE6tT%2FOYgKBQ0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
17 bidders and 49 bids...................................
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285089635109?nma=true&si=hUI5SbXS%2Br7rb0EE6tT%2FOYgKBQ0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
17 bidders and 49 bids...................................
Last edited:
SeaFuse
Member
C-bodies are still cheap entertainment. Their interest and pricing is generally speaking, orders of magnitude from muscle cars. For the most part, full size GM and FoMoCo are also light years away from muscle pricing. That crazy Hurst (with cracked subframe) from BAT is a flyer. And some personal lux coupes like early Rivieras and special option 69-71 Grand Prix/Monte Carlos go for big bucks, but for the most part 60's and early 70's full size GM/FoMoCo are getting early 90's Toyota 4x4 money, at best. Sure it was nice when clean C-bodies were $1500, but those days are long gone as are when a driver 69 Z28 was $3500 in late 80's.
The be;low 69 300 vert is one example. Dealer paid $12K at Mecum in Oct. Tried to re-sell on eBay in Dec and went unsold ... likely top bid was at dealer's break-even cost with fees, transpo inclusive. Then relisted and couldn't get to 9K. Sheetmetal and much more looks rough on that one.
Hopefully the bidder who paid 19K for the 70 300 in NE is happy with the buy. Compared to what a 70 Challenger convertible goes for, they got an awesome value.
Bad investment?
300 vert languishing
$35K if this were a 69 Dart.
SeaFuse
Member
And now the negotiations with seller really start.
fury fan
Senior Member
I'm betting the sale price isn't due to 'economy' vs an A-B-E.
I would bet that the winning bidder, and the #2 horse, did not realize this car was damaged and is still bent.
And the new owner might not realize it until they've waxed it a few times, might notice some things don't line up, and get out the tape measure.
If they notice it upon pickup - well, it was all there in the sheetmetal photos, if seller didn't really know it was still bent, and buyer didn't notice what was visible in the photos, IMO it's buyers remorse, not buyers release. Seller is not obligated to be an expert to sell their item - seller should educate him/herself.
And more upward bends here, too. Might be from a floor jack - might not.
I would bet that the winning bidder, and the #2 horse, did not realize this car was damaged and is still bent.
And the new owner might not realize it until they've waxed it a few times, might notice some things don't line up, and get out the tape measure.
If they notice it upon pickup - well, it was all there in the sheetmetal photos, if seller didn't really know it was still bent, and buyer didn't notice what was visible in the photos, IMO it's buyers remorse, not buyers release. Seller is not obligated to be an expert to sell their item - seller should educate him/herself.
And more upward bends here, too. Might be from a floor jack - might not.
Similar threads
