1971-73 Imperial Sure Brake by Bendix

The_Eagles’_Nest

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So I pulled the ultra rare B64 Anti-Skid brakes from an Imperial that is doomed to the derby. So a system component overview is:

LF Modulator
RF Modulator
Rear Modulator
4 Wheel Speed Sensors
Hard Brake Lines
Rotors w tone rings
Rear Tone rings
Forward Harness
Body Harness
Dash Harness
Logic Controller
Vacuum Lines
Intake Manifold Fitting

Carry over parts
Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
Front splash shields
Rear backing plates
Brake Drums
Brake Hoses

I will be getting the parts ready to install on my 73 Imperial. It will eventually get restored but for now it will be a mock-up.

IMG_1715.jpeg
 
NIce! I'm glad someone picked up this stuff and even better that you are planning on using it.
Thanks for posting a picture of the parts that were involved in the B64 system.
Please continue with posting pics of the parts once you have cleaned up each piece.
Curious as to the actual differences in items like the brake lines etc.
 
Only one rear modulator?

All literature and articles mentioned, as I recall, that EACH of the wheels could have specific modulation, not the rear wheels together. AND, what made the unit very special was that it had TWO decel rates, rather than just cycling between "on" and "off" at the wheel. Ford and GM, initially, used systems that were only on the rear wheels and cycled between "on" and "off", which some road testers demonstrated by doing a max-effort stop on loose gravel, where the rear wheels would be locked and the fronts would not be, as the truck continued to slide on the gravel.

Anyway, the system was WAY before it's time (like lots of Chrysler engineering-related items were back then!) and to a much higher degree of execution than Ford of GM wanted to get to at that time. Even in later model years, GM used a tone ring on the pinion gear shaft on some pickup truck rear axles for the rear brakes.

CONGRATS on getting these things!
CBODY67
 
Yes. One rear modulator. The rear wheels have individual speed sensors but the rear wheel brakes are controlled together. It is a 3-channel system.

The factory literature I have seen says that this is correct. I have checked the service manual, TSB, and the parts catalog for what the system is made of.
 
The system uses a vacuum fitting and two inline tees on 1/2” PCV hose that comes out of the front of the intake manifold. If you ever wondered what the pipe plug on the front of the 440 intake on the #1 runner was that is where the Sure-Brake is connected.

IMG_2869.jpeg
 
You can see the 1/2” hose and the routing where it goes next to the A/C compressor and across the width of the car.

IMG_1716.jpeg
 
Thanks for posting. I've always wondered what the components looked like. Just curious- where was the rear modulator mounted? Those things are massive!
 
You sir earned the deal on the parts, John spent a looong portion of his day pulling these parts from a disgusting rodent filled car. I wasn't much help as I just had a vasectomy the day prior but it was a pleasure to meet you and I'm glad one junk car can upgrade yours! I'm sure glad he did the research before coming because it consisted of much more parts than I imagined. Certainly learned some things. Thank you for making the trip
 
I will try to get the brass blocks and unique parts cleaned up. The lines will all have to be remade but they are a good template.
 
I used to have one of those '73 Imperials. It had the factory burglar alarm system too. Man that car had some wiring and plumbing!
 
Cool that you are going to install it. and how for is the project?
my 72 imperial has the sure brake system from the factory but it is not working anymore but is it is still installed.
the old owner disconnected it at some point and broke the rear sensors i think and just hanging lose at the rear axel.
what i could find is that there are no parts to get for it to fix it. and it is very rare. so i think i will just have to remove everything, its cool its has it but its not working so better remove it then . it has a lot of hoses and wires in the car
 
Rather than remove it, why not try to upgrade the sensors to something newer? Something in recent production? Might need to make some mounting brackets and then connect-into the existing wiring harness.

I'm suspecting they used a magnetic sensor and a toothed/cogged area on the brake rotor/drum to gauge each wheel's speed variations? Common method for years!

If the main computer is having issues, might take a while but each of the resistors and joints can be checked for accuracy and operation, I suspect. No need for schematics as the items' values are on their external shell. They the continuity and resistance of the soldered joints.

Which then gets into the switching/modulation valving items. THAT might be the issue, but if companies can rebuild automatic transmission valve bodies (checking the shuttle valve bores and such), then possibly the same is true of the SureBrake items, too?

At the worst, you might adapt a 1990s rwd Chevy Caprice ABS system to what is now there. If you were in the USA, a parts car could be found and everything swapped over to the Imperial, but I also acknowledge that where you are, that is not possible. In the 1980s, GM was using many different ABS systems, but by the 1990s, they were using pretty much all the same things. Much more standardized, by observation.

What made the SureBrake system great was that it was full 4-wheel ABS, not just "rear wheel only" as the other OEM systems were for several years. It also had two deceleration rates it could do, as everything else was either "on or off", with nothing in-between. Which might have been more of a complication rather than a benefit, considering how fast the solenoids pulsed.

So, "update" rather than "remove" might be a viable alternative?

Happy Holidays!
CBODY67
 
The Sure-Brake is a 3-channel system but has input from all four wheels. The front wheels have their own modulators and the rear has a shared modulator that controls both rear wheels at the same time.

I’m clearing my table before I get any major projects going. I want to sell my Valiant and my Fury, I’m trying to get them sorted so they sell fast.
 
Rather than remove it, why not try to upgrade the sensors to something newer? Something in recent production? Might need to make some mounting brackets and then connect-into the existing wiring harness.

I'm suspecting they used a magnetic sensor and a toothed/cogged area on the brake rotor/drum to gauge each wheel's speed variations? Common method for years!

If the main computer is having issues, might take a while but each of the resistors and joints can be checked for accuracy and operation, I suspect. No need for schematics as the items' values are on their external shell. They the continuity and resistance of the soldered joints.

Which then gets into the switching/modulation valving items. THAT might be the issue, but if companies can rebuild automatic transmission valve bodies (checking the shuttle valve bores and such), then possibly the same is true of the SureBrake items, too?

At the worst, you might adapt a 1990s rwd Chevy Caprice ABS system to what is now there. If you were in the USA, a parts car could be found and everything swapped over to the Imperial, but I also acknowledge that where you are, that is not possible. In the 1980s, GM was using many different ABS systems, but by the 1990s, they were using pretty much all the same things. Much more standardized, by observation.

What made the SureBrake system great was that it was full 4-wheel ABS, not just "rear wheel only" as the other OEM systems were for several years. It also had two deceleration rates it could do, as everything else was either "on or off", with nothing in-between. Which might have been more of a complication rather than a benefit, considering how fast the solenoids pulsed.

So, "update" rather than "remove" might be a viable alternative?

Happy Holidays!
CBODY67
Thanks for all the info and maybe it is a option. but as you say getting parts here in the Netherlands is a lot more difficult than in the USA and a if you can get them a lot more expensive.
its cool it has it and if there was simple fix i wil do it. but i think its going to take a lot of time and money to try to fix it. so for now i have to make a choice becouce i am taking the enigne out and clean up under the hood and fix the wires etc. so if i am going to take them out now is the moment.
i can always install it again at a later date. i will not trow it away. but think its just not the time for me to fix it at the moment. wanne focus more on the car main needs. and just want to drive it finaly and enjoy it, have the car 2.5 years and I was able to drive it for less than 15 minutes. the car was a project car and had to put it back together for the most part and get a license plate for it and that i have done but when i had all of that the cooling system just didn't feel like it anymore so going to fix that and then going to drive it a lot next year :)
 
One of the main reasons the older OEM systems might not be sustainable is the future availability of brake rotors. For ANY Chrysler product of that era.

Which makes me wonder if any of the Wilwood disc brake kits are compatible with OEM ABS brakes? Their rotors that will interface with ABS wheel speed sensors? Might have to remove the existing calipers and rotors, then use their stuff, but then interface their stuff with some matching sensors so the rest of the system might work as designed?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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