318 stuck

You should really listen to thesez guyz Rwc. It'z ah $10-$12 dollar gamble that will more then likely pay off. The requirmentz are: 1qt. of any brand of ATF. 1 qt. of acetone. 1 MT glass quart jar W/lid, and 1 horse syringe From your local hospital supply pharmacy WITHOUT THE NEEDLE. GO TO YOUR WORK BENCH AND SET EVERY THING DOWN. Pour 50% of the acetone into the quart jar and then add 50% ATF to fill it and pour the remainder of the acetone into the the ATF jug and screw the cap on tight. Now go to your Fury with the glass jar full of 50X50 mix W/THE LID INSTALLED, and the syringe . Shake well before drawing out at least ah half full load into the syringe an squirt it all into any cylinder spark plug hole and continue repeating that 'til you've done it 8 times in all 8 holez and remember to keep it shook up in the glass jar every other squirt or two 'cuz it doez and will separate and don't forget to cap off the jar when yer done or you'll lose all the acitone. (That stull evaporates pretty quick if you let it!) Then forget the car iz even sittin' there for ah few dayz, maybe even ah week. Then get back under that front end with your 1/2" drive ratchet and a 1+1/8th" socket and have ah pull on that crank pulley center nut. Don't be surprised if it movez but keep cranking by hand 'til you've dribbled the ATF out of all 8 holes. reinstall the spark plugz and turn it over with the key. You've just solved ah serious problem with the best "BREAKER-LOOSER" KNOWN TO MAN, ACCORDING TO ALL SCIENTIFIC STUDIEZ DONE WITH EVERY POSSIBLE BREAKER LOOSER KNOWN TO MAN, Jer
 
I have a 318 in my 1970 Fury convertible. One of its problems is lack of torque. Lack of torque results in part from lack of crankshaft stroke. A 360 has more stroke than your 318 and a factory 383. If the engine is stuck, you could consider a 360. The blocks are so common here in Virginia that I've seen older shops with extra 360 motors just lying around, so they're cheap to buy and easy to find. 360 engines are external balance, but you can buy flex plates to compensate, such that you can keep your torque converter. Also, it will bolt up to your small block trans. I had a 318 in a 1967 Power Wagon that was a dog. I built a 360 with a 4 barrel and ran that and it was a different truck. It would burn 33 inch tires off the line. The burn wasn't long, but it would spin em and go fast.
 
My hopes were to have it pretty much the way I was. The previous owner had recently freshened it up a little. I was going to use the suggestions to soak it and probably still will. In my circle of friends with SMD( severe Mopar disorder) I have Been given a 4bbl holley, a manifold and the heads from a 1974 small block police engine. It already has very few miles on the "purple" cam. So this winter the engine comes out and gets gone through.
 
I have a 318 in my 1970 Fury convertible. One of its problems is lack of torque. Lack of torque results in part from lack of crankshaft stroke. A 360 has more stroke than your 318 and a factory 383. If the engine is stuck, you could consider a 360. The blocks are so common here in Virginia that I've seen older shops with extra 360 motors just lying around, so they're cheap to buy and easy to find. 360 engines are external balance, but you can buy flex plates to compensate, such that you can keep your torque converter. Also, it will bolt up to your small block trans. I had a 318 in a 1967 Power Wagon that was a dog. I built a 360 with a 4 barrel and ran that and it was a different truck. It would burn 33 inch tires off the line. The burn wasn't long, but it would spin em and go fast.

I would definitely do the 360
 
My hopes were to have it pretty much the way I was. The previous owner had recently freshened it up a little. I was going to use the suggestions to soak it and probably still will. In my circle of friends with SMD( severe Mopar disorder) I have Been given a 4bbl holley, a manifold and the heads from a 1974 small block police engine. It already has very few miles on the "purple" cam. So this winter the engine comes out and gets gone through.

Sounds like a good plan. I have never been a fan of the 360's myself. Great way to waste some gas.

If it comes down to a swap, a 340 is what you need to locate.

 
I would definitely do the 360

Sounds like a good plan. I have never been a fan of the 360's myself. Great way to waste some gas.

If it comes down to a swap, a 340 is what you need to locate.



I loved the 360 in my 71, ran way better and pulled harder than my 383.
The 360 in my 2001 Ram got much better fuel economy and pulled harder than the 5.7s in my 2005 or my 2013 Ram.
 
I am sure that I lack the maturity that a lot of horsepower requires. And the real goal is to have a dependable driver.
 
I am sure that I lack the maturity that a lot of horsepower requires. And the real goal is to have a dependable driver.

It takes a wise man to know his limitations. Your plan to stick with the original 318 sounds like the best route for you.
 
I'm still tryin' tah figger out how in the short term ah 318 getz froze up stuck. The 413'z had cast iron ringz and had them issuez when cast iron ringz sitz up on cast iron cylinder wallz. If they stt fer ah while without movin' their gonna get married, but ah 318? If I've done my readin' up rite the 318 never did. When waz the first one? '66-'67? Chrome Molliez from the get-go. Have you had the rocker coverz off? Any chance rodent'z set up house keepin' and been peein' on the valvez? Gotta be somethin' strange goin' on there?
 
I'm still tryin' tah figger out how in the short term ah 318 getz froze up stuck. The 413'z had cast iron ringz and had them issuez when cast iron ringz sitz up on cast iron cylinder wallz. If they stt fer ah while without movin' their gonna get married, but ah 318? If I've done my readin' up rite the 318 never did. When waz the first one? '66-'67? Chrome Molliez from the get-go. Have you had the rocker coverz off? Any chance rodent'z set up house keepin' and been peein' on the valvez? Gotta be somethin' strange goin' on there?


I have only tried turning it by Hand. I have not yet, but am going to pull the valve covers. The valve seals were shot when I parked it so was going that far anyway. If I am correct the 70 heads would have not been set up for unleaded, and the new heads should solve that as well. The rings are not original, but I don't know what shape they or the pistons are in.
 
All it takes is some stupid luck and a motivated rodent and it can stick tight or be ruined.
I recall dropping the clutch trying to unstick a '72 440/4sp Dana Charger... We could get it to move a few degrees at most even dragging it accross the floor in forward and reverse and dropping the clutch. Upon disassembly the ONLY thing frozen was the distributor drive to the bushing. The movement was the slack in the crank, timing set and cam gear....lol.
 
To the guys recommending the 360, I believe you. I was a little less than serious when I said I lacked the Maturity for more horses. Okay, i do, but would enjoy it a lot! there is so much that has to be done to get it on the road I just intend to use the available parts for now, and then get the stuff done I am sure I wont be able to compromise. the top, the interior and most especially the body and paint. I want to have everything done as well as possible and not do hard to repair damage to the car.
Please keep any idea's coming, and thank you
 
Sounds like limited budget is the real problem. I can comprehend and commiserate. If the engine comes loose with all the treatments recommended, great! You've saved some ching. However, if it doesn't come unglued, your acquisition cost for a 360 would be minimal and your rebuild cost would be about the same as the 318, but your HP/Torque per $ for the 360 would be vastly improved. From a budgetary standpoint, you might consider the 360 if the 318 has to come out. Also, if you've had the car for 25 years, or whatever it was, my guess is that you know when to mat it and when not to.
 
Sounds like limited budget is the real problem. I can comprehend and commiserate. If the engine comes loose with all the treatments recommended, great! You've saved some ching. However, if it doesn't come unglued, your acquisition cost for a 360 would be minimal and your rebuild cost would be about the same as the 318, but your HP/Torque per $ for the 360 would be vastly improved. From a budgetary standpoint, you might consider the 360 if the 318 has to come out. Also, if you've had the car for 25 years, or whatever it was, my guess is that you know when to mat it and when not to.

Pretty much it. There are some things I wish now I had done differently, none permanent. As I said, this time around the goal is to do nothing going on that takes it very far from original looks. Thanks to friends helping with parts I don't think the 318 wont be too bad. And I agree that a 360 would make more sense than dumping a ton into the 318. My son in law (almost) has a Friend with a 440 and transmission that is pretty much ready to go and he is really pushing the idea. It is tempting. When I graduated high school I had a 69 roadrunner with a 383 magnum 4 speed that was a blast.
 
Hello,

I got to this kind of late, but have you tried some Marvel Mystery oil down each of the cylinders. That stuff can work wonders.

Thanks

Eric
 
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