383 keeps breaking mount

KTMonaco67

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Good evening all,

The driver side engine mount in my Monaco keeps breaking … I Replaced the broken stock mount with one from Mancini Racing less than 2 weeks and maybe 300 miles ago and it’s ripped itself apart. I know this isn’t an uncommon issue by any stretch, but I would’ve expected a little more life than 2 weeks out of a decent mount . Are there any typical/ known driveline ( or other) issues that I should be looking for that cause this?

Just for information’s sake, the car is a bone stock 67’ , 383 4 barrel, 727 into an 8.75 rear (742 housing) . Attached is a pic of the Mancini mounts and the mount separating while under torque. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

IMG_8321.png


IMG_8323.jpeg
 
My son and I built an angry little 360 for his half ton...went through 3 sets of conventional rubber mounts because...well it is a torquey thing.

Got a set of Poly-Locs and never had a problem since. They have worked great for us.
 
I could swear I've seen someone that makes an internally flanged rubber-filled mount that even if the rubber rips the mount can't separate.

Otherwise you'll have to put bolts through it that don't take any load or tension but will hold the plates together if the rubber separates.
 
You probably got a defective mount, contact their customer service to see if they will replace it. If Mancini is sourcing replacement mounts from China, they are probably junk as the Chicom rubber parts are poorly made.

Dave
 
It was actually stamped “440 source”, which I thought made their products here in the states but maybe that’s not the case
You probably got a defective mount, contact their customer service to see if they will replace it. If Mancini is sourcing replacement mounts from China, they are probably junk as the Chicom rubber parts are poorly made.

Dave
 
There IS a reason that type of motor mount fails! Any guesses as to what it might be?

Stay away from NOS mounts as the rubber in them is as old as the last model year that mount was used, most probably.

As mentioned, you can drill a hole through that style of mount and put a bolt through it (with big flat washers under the bolt head and related nut) to limit the possible movement of a failed mount. Spray some engine-black paint on it and only a trained eye might see it.

Otherwise, like some did "in the old days", put a bolt in the front of the block and wrap a chain around the frame, all held in by the bolt. Might make some rattling noises, but it'd work. For the Chevy motor mount recall of about 1969, they had a really nice looking stainless steel cable (abt 1/2" diameter) with two flat ends crimped onto it. One bolt secured the flat ends to the block as the cable wrapped around the frame. "Professional" looking.

Hope you find a suitable fix,
CBODY67
 
This is what I did (I used stainless fasteners). I also used a jam nut so I could leave a little slack in it to permit the mount to cushion the engine vibrations and not worry about the nut backing itself off. Going on 10 years in, no issues, and I don't even notice the mod.

My Mount mod 1.jpg


My Mount mod 2.jpg


My Mount mod bolt.jpg
 
There IS a reason that type of motor mount fails! Any guesses as to what it might be?

Stay away from NOS mounts as the rubber in them is as old as the last model year that mount was used, most probably.

As mentioned, you can drill a hole through that style of mount and put a bolt through it (with big flat washers under the bolt head and related nut) to limit the possible movement of a failed mount. Spray some engine-black paint on it and only a trained eye might see it.

Otherwise, like some did "in the old days", put a bolt in the front of the block and wrap a chain around the frame, all held in by the bolt. Might make some rattling noises, but it'd work. For the Chevy motor mount recall of about 1969, they had a really nice looking stainless steel cable (abt 1/2" diameter) with two flat ends crimped onto it. One bolt secured the flat ends to the block as the cable wrapped around the frame. "Professional" looking.

Hope you find a suitable fix,
CBODY67

I chained the 383 in 'Tilly for years, until I got a cable to do the same. There is now at least ONE source of after market torque cables made for B/RB engine mounts. It might be 440 source. I always tether that driver side down, and LO! the mounts remain intact!
 
Good evening all,

The driver side engine mount in my Monaco keeps breaking … I Replaced the broken stock mount with one from Mancini Racing less than 2 weeks and maybe 300 miles ago and it’s ripped itself apart. I know this isn’t an uncommon issue by any stretch, but I would’ve expected a little more life than 2 weeks out of a decent mount . Are there any typical/ known driveline ( or other) issues that I should be looking for that cause this?

Just for information’s sake, the car is a bone stock 67’ , 383 4 barrel, 727 into an 8.75 rear (742 housing) . Attached is a pic of the Mancini mounts and the mount separating while under torque. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Go buy some cheap Korean mounts, and use THIS: MRE - Factory Style HD Torque Strap

or THIS: Factory Style Heavy Duty Torque Strap Cable

I suspect its the same thing.

I've been using one for over 5 years now, with the same mounts.
 
Ordered one a little while ago lol and yes I think there’s a good chance they’re the same cable. I appreciate the links !

Right on RIGHT ON! You'll be EVER SO GLAD you did! Before I bought this cable, (mine is an Original BTW, but no matter) I used a chain. Within the first couple weeks of driving my 383, I had to repair BRAKES before I could attend to details under the hood. THAT reared its UGLY head up when "all of a sudden" I fried a considerable portion of the primary electrical harness both under hood and dash. This occurred because THE ENGINE REARED UP ENOUGH TO GROUND THE UNSHIELDED ALTERNATOR CHARGING LUG INTO THE FENDER!!!! Unfortunately, I didn't SEE the engine doing this, just noticed that when making a left trun at an intersection, the lights dimmed when I nudged the gas pedal, and then half the wires in that car BURNED! I actually salvaged enough wiring to get home, by "hot wire" to use a pun, and then replaced all the burnt wires and alternator in the following few days, but the "electrical oddity" persisted until I saw the damned engine rolling in the compartment a couple months later. THEN, my Quest to Secure The Mounts Began! It ended with the purchase of the sort of torque strap I recommend to you all, and the Morris Family drove Happily Ever After.
 
I would consider myself lucky then, after reading that! My alternator left a big ole’ dent in my inner fender well but I guess that little plastic sheath did its job…. Ended up ordering both the torque strap and a set of Mity Mounts . It doesn’t look like the Schumacher’s are being sold anywhere currently, the Mity’s looked like they had a comparable design.
 
I would consider myself lucky then, after reading that! My alternator left a big ole’ dent in my inner fender well but I guess that little plastic sheath did its job…. Ended up ordering both the torque strap and a set of Mity Mounts . It doesn’t look like the Schumacher’s are being sold anywhere currently, the Mity’s looked like they had a comparable design.
Since Mancini has owned Schumacher for a few years now, and you've broken the one you bought from them, do you really want to buy another from them? From what I've read, the expensive Schumacher poly-lock mounts often didn't live up to their hype and a lot of guys reported failures.

From what I understand, the Schumacher poly-lock mount was made by Imperial Services and they haven't been made in years. Imperial Services has a less than stellar reputation for service and delivery, so I don't know if they ever will be offered again anyway.
 
Since Mancini has owned Schumacher for a few years now, and you've broken the one you bought from them, do you really want to buy another from them? From what I've read, the expensive Schumacher poly-lock mounts often didn't live up to their hype and a lot of guys reported failures.

From what I understand, the Schumacher poly-lock mount was made by Imperial Services and they haven't been made in years. Imperial Services has a less than stellar reputation for service and delivery, so I don't know if they ever will be offered again anyway.
To be honest it wasn’t so much that I was hellbent on the Schumachers by any means…. But not a lot of options out there and really wanted to stay away from the OEM rubber style after the way the Mancini unit ( 440 source produced ) turned out
 
To be honest it wasn’t so much that I was hellbent on the Schumachers by any means…. But not a lot of options out there and really wanted to stay away from the OEM rubber style after the way the Mancini unit ( 440 source produced ) turned out
I understand. There's not a lot of options out there. The Mity Mounts are supposed to be the better choice, but who knows.

Just for conversation and because you're having a problem with the engine mounts, what shape is the trans mount in? I could see a bad trans mount contributing to the problem.
 
I understand. There's not a lot of options out there. The Mity Mounts are supposed to be the better choice, but who knows.

Just for conversation and because you're having a problem with the engine mounts, what shape is the trans mount in? I could see a bad trans mount contributing to the problem.
Very good point .. It’s not in great shape to be honest , intact but noticeably weathered . I have to pull the driveshaft to replace I joints so I’ll probably replace that while I’m down there . I’ll definitely report back on the Mity mounts down the road, assuming anyone’s interested in how they pan out.
 
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