4-barrel conversion, Newport w/383??

[Gerald Morris]

How about 2 barrel jets? I have a reman carb that seems a little wimpy. I can floor it and not a huge response. I don’t expect much with 2.76 gear but I wonder if the jets in the carb are sized for a smaller engine?

changing plug wires tomorrow. Going to closely examine my spark plugs.

You have a reman BBD? I recall the BBD as being one of 2 options for a 66 383. I run the Stromberg WWC, which is the other. Granted, with a 2.76 rear end, you won't smoke much rubber in 2nd gear, but with my kickdown set "Just So" Mathilda picks up nicely when putting at ~40 mph and I punch the throttle wide IFF the motor isn't too warm. (I get pre-ignition chatter when it is. May try a thorough cooling jacket flushing soon for some of that...)

My point is that most of the time I don't get the rubber pealing response I once enjoyed with lightweight Ford deathmobiles running mid-sized V-8s with low rear ends. But Tilly still can take off from a stop smartly enough to pull in front of most traffic.

IDK if anyone would BOTHER re-jetting these modest carburetors. I'm looking to rebuild one of the 3 WWCs I own soon, as the moonshine I pump too often has eroded the gaskets in the nicely rebuilt WWC I got on eBay for $50 a couple yrs ago. No complaints about 2 years of decent function for that kind of modest outlay.

You might try a rebuilt WWC for your ride. Finding one for a good price may take a little time. I'm going to try one more rebuilt one on my ride before I start shopping for any new carburetors. I'd rebuild myself if I didn't have two toddlers running amok here apt to EAT small shiny parts!

 

[Joseph James]

You have a reman BBD? I recall the BBD as being one of 2 options for a 66 383. I run the Stromberg WWC, which is the other. Granted, with a 2.76 rear end, you won't smoke much rubber in 2nd gear, but with my kickdown set "Just So" Mathilda picks up nicely when putting at ~40 mph and I punch the throttle wide IFF the motor isn't too warm. (I get pre-ignition chatter when it is. May try a thorough cooling jacket flushing soon for some of that...)

My point is that most of the time I don't get the rubber pealing response I once enjoyed with lightweight Ford deathmobiles running mid-sized V-8s with low rear ends. But Tilly still can take off from a stop smartly enough to pull in front of most traffic.

IDK if anyone would BOTHER re-jetting these modest carburetors. I'm looking to rebuild one of the 3 WWCs I own soon, as the moonshine I pump too often has eroded the gaskets in the nicely rebuilt WWC I got on eBay for $50 a couple yrs ago. No complaints about 2 years of decent function for that kind of modest outlay.

You might try a rebuilt WWC for your ride. Finding one for a good price may take a little time. I'm going to try one more rebuilt one on my ride before I start shopping for any new carburetors. I'd rebuild myself if I didn't have two toddlers running amok here apt to EAT small shiny parts!

Far as I know, the BBD was original to the car. The tag matched a 68 383 with 727. I wasn’t aware reman carbs were so bad and I foolishly sent the original in for a core.

 

[CBODY67]

In the case of the Carter BBD, it's the main jet and metering rod combination that makes the "jetting" calibration. If it's like the AFBs and such, the number for the metering rods is stamped into them. I suspect the jets are similar? Both numbers are in the FSM carb specs listing.

CBODY67

 

[Joseph James]

In the case of the Carter BBD, it's the main jet and metering rod combination that makes the "jetting" calibration. If it's like the AFBs and such, the number for the metering rods is stamped into them. I suspect the jets are similar? Both numbers are in the FSM carb specs listing.

CBODY67

Would the reman company have set the carburetor up for a 383 or could it be for a smaller engine? Thing is so anemic I have considered dropping a 4 barrel in.

 

[CBODY67]

The issue with a reman carb is how the "reman" functions are done. IF the rebuilder puts the jets and such in a basket that follows the particular carb throughout the process of is they are considered ?will fit" and you get what you get. As the BBD 1.56" throttle bore 2bbls were usually only on Chrysler 383s, or 361s before that, then it's very possible the jetting is pretty close to OEM, but no way to know unless you look inside the carb.

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

Far as I know, the BBD was original to the car. The tag matched a 68 383 with 727. I wasn’t aware reman carbs were so bad and I foolishly sent the original in for a core.

NEVER send in your original stuff for the pennies they give for cores. Save it until you have a way to rebuild/rehab your stuff yourself. Look for old dudes with grey/white hair who have been rebuilding stuff since their puberty. I know one such old boy who does carbs around here, and similar "wise old elves" who did Mathilda's tranny a bit over 2 yrs ago.

The Carter BBD is a bit more plentiful today than the Bendix Stromberg stuff. That means you will pay less if you do buy another rebuild from some corporate slop-shop, but you WILL be GAMBLING.

 

[CBODY67]

Would the reman company have set the carburetor up for a 383 or could it be for a smaller engine? Thing is so anemic I have considered dropping a 4 barrel in.

What you CAN do on a 2bbl (BBD or WWC3) is to play around with the accel pump linkage. Changing the pivot/linkage holes can affect the timing and amount of the pump shot, just readjust it so that it's at the start of the pump's travel when it's at hot base idle. From my experiences on out '66 Newport 383 2bbl (back when it was pretty new), any tire spin stopped about the time the accel pump's shot was used up. Even with the wider-tread H78-14 tires we had on it back then.

4bbl ONLY makes a difference after the secondaries start to open. The primaries on a 600cfm 4bbl are about the same, if not the same, size as what the 1.56" BBDs and WWC3 carbs already have.

Seems like the WOT 1-2 shift was at 37mph? But you can go a little bit higher, like to 42 without getting the rpms out of the power band?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[The Goose]

NEVER send in your original stuff for the pennies they give for cores. Save it until you have a way to rebuild/rehab your stuff yourself. Look for old dudes with grey/white hair who have been rebuilding stuff since their puberty. I know one such old boy who does carbs around here, and similar "wise old elves" who did Mathilda's tranny a bit over 2 yrs ago.

The Carter BBD is a bit more plentiful today than the Bendix Stromberg stuff. That means you will pay less if you do buy another rebuild from some corporate slop-shop, but you WILL be GAMBLING.

AMEN BROTHER !!!

I did just that w my factory alternator. I run points and I didn’t want some crazy output rated alternator gumming up the works. I took my OEM installed stocker to a local old school rebuilder. Cost $110 (no core Lol!!!) and it’s been some of the best money I’ve spent on the car. And guess what many many miles later still doing A number one. Figure it’s good for another 50 years Lol!!!

 

[Gerald Morris]

AMEN BROTHER !!!

I did just that w my factory alternator. I run points and I didn’t want some crazy output rated alternator gumming up the works. I took my OEM installed stocker to a local old school rebuilder. Cost $110 (no core Lol!!!) and it’s been some of the best money I’ve spent on the car. And guess what many many miles later still doing A number one. Figure it’s good for another 50 years Lol!!!

Big 10-4! I have a couple squarebacks I might take to a local motor shop which did an EXCELLENT job rewinding my electric scooter motor 12 or so yrs ago. I might just buy a heavy duty stator for them or see if they will wind one for me, with beefy diodes. I keep as much of my old stuff as I have room for, and sometimes do well.

Drink to the Wise Old Elves!