Good start! If problems seem to point towards the fuel pump itself, bear in mind that the camshaft driven pump push rod is prone to wear on these big blocks. Peeps have had issue with hardness on the replacements too. A good used original is the best bet if you should need one.
65 New Yorker, first project car
- Thread starter drtrubs
- Start date
Good start! If problems seem to point towards the fuel pump itself, bear in mind that the camshaft driven pump push rod is prone to wear on these big blocks. Peeps have had issue with hardness on the replacements too. A good used original is the best bet if you should need one.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Very nice.
drtrubs
Great looking NYer. If the underside is as clean as the rest, what a find.
Only item I see missing is the upper 'A' arm splash shields. Those are available in the after-market.
Would great to see it a Carlisle this summer.
Omni
Great looking NYer. If the underside is as clean as the rest, what a find.
Only item I see missing is the upper 'A' arm splash shields. Those are available in the after-market.
Would great to see it a Carlisle this summer.
Omni
Thanks for all the advice. Been super helpful.
Recently a trustworthy mechanic who was helpful.
In working order I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel supply, fuel pump and carburetor to get it running great. Replaced the rear drums to only find the front stick too will likely put fresh ones on soon and replace the master cylinder and brake lines.
Runs great just can’t stop well.
Recently a trustworthy mechanic who was helpful.
In working order I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel supply, fuel pump and carburetor to get it running great. Replaced the rear drums to only find the front stick too will likely put fresh ones on soon and replace the master cylinder and brake lines.
Runs great just can’t stop well.
Planning on it already. Couldn’t agree more that it doesn’t quite look right without one
Beautiful color. I wanted a maroon but could match the right purple red tone.
Richard54
New Member
I have a 66 Newport and at a minimum would like to get a dual master cylinder. Any suggestions, the car has a single chamber, power drums.
Hey Richard! It's me Richard (58) writing from Tampa. Here's what I did on my 65 New Yorker 3 years ago, and all is working perfectly fine these last 3 years, but I am sure someone will chime in to tell me I am wrong. I have done this conversion on two cars with no issues over multiple years. I am not telling you to do this fix; I am only telling you what I did.
I converted my 65 New Yorker 4-drums by installing a dual-pot master cylinder (I got mine off ebay, searched 67 New Yorker master cylinder), and then ordered a new distribution block (not proportioning valve) from Inline Tube up in Michigan. Inline Tube has a distribution block for this purpose, I THINK this is correct, but consult with Inline Tube. 1965-66 Mopar A B C-Body Dual-Reservoir Master Cylinder Distribution Block for Disc or Drum Brakes
The dual-pot master bolted right up to my 65 booster. I found a good spot on the front subframe (I basically imitated the setup on my 67 Newport) and bolted the distribution block at that spot. I then replaced all the brake lines (pipes) and plumbed the thing as it was done on my 67 Newport. Everything works perfectly, stops great, and now 3+ years later, no issues.
Finally, don't take my word for it. This is how I did it, and it works just fine, I have complete confidence in what I did. But my suggestions are only that.....suggestions.
I converted my 65 New Yorker 4-drums by installing a dual-pot master cylinder (I got mine off ebay, searched 67 New Yorker master cylinder), and then ordered a new distribution block (not proportioning valve) from Inline Tube up in Michigan. Inline Tube has a distribution block for this purpose, I THINK this is correct, but consult with Inline Tube. 1965-66 Mopar A B C-Body Dual-Reservoir Master Cylinder Distribution Block for Disc or Drum Brakes
The dual-pot master bolted right up to my 65 booster. I found a good spot on the front subframe (I basically imitated the setup on my 67 Newport) and bolted the distribution block at that spot. I then replaced all the brake lines (pipes) and plumbed the thing as it was done on my 67 Newport. Everything works perfectly, stops great, and now 3+ years later, no issues.
Finally, don't take my word for it. This is how I did it, and it works just fine, I have complete confidence in what I did. But my suggestions are only that.....suggestions.
Good Morning
Ditto Scoopy G.
Did the same thing to the '65 Newport (AKA Party Barge).
I bought my cylinder from Craig (Mobile Parts) I opted to have the original booster (Kelsey Hayes) rebuilt, however, no rebuilds the KH booster. I sourced a Midland from Murray Park and had that one rebuilt (Booster Dewey).
The master cylinder brake lines were left over from an A-body conversion done years ago. The distribution block was from a long departed '68 Monaco station wagon. It is a simple bolt-up up procedure. If your going to replace the booster then you have to get under the dash to unbolt the push rod. Don't forget to make sure the brake switch is still working when your done.
A very worth while upgrade when competing with 'modern' cars.
Good Luck and God Speed
Omni
Ditto Scoopy G.
Did the same thing to the '65 Newport (AKA Party Barge).
I bought my cylinder from Craig (Mobile Parts) I opted to have the original booster (Kelsey Hayes) rebuilt, however, no rebuilds the KH booster. I sourced a Midland from Murray Park and had that one rebuilt (Booster Dewey).
The master cylinder brake lines were left over from an A-body conversion done years ago. The distribution block was from a long departed '68 Monaco station wagon. It is a simple bolt-up up procedure. If your going to replace the booster then you have to get under the dash to unbolt the push rod. Don't forget to make sure the brake switch is still working when your done.
A very worth while upgrade when competing with 'modern' cars.
Good Luck and God Speed
Omni
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