'66 Newport 2 Door hardtop

[CBODY67]

Not that I've been actively looking around, but that's the first black-case Sanden I've seen. I like that.

CBODY67

 

[darth_linux]

Not that I've been actively looking around, but that's the first black-case Sanden I've seen. I like that.

CBODY67

I painted it myself!

 

[darth_linux]

Phase 1 of Sanden compressor upgrade is complete. The instructions from Buchillon are not great, and the pictures they provide are even worse, so I’ve taken a couple photos here showing the critical information that one needs to install the compressor and bracket kit on a 66 or earlier 383 engine, namely, where the little spacers go, and how many washers you need to shim things. I’ve left all the plumbing lines in place for now. They’re just zip tied out of the way. In the spring, I will get all new lines fabricated custom, and get the whole system charged, provided my condenser and evaporator are in good shape. The plan is to flush those out in March, and replace the drier and expansion valve at the same time.

If you’re curious about weight savings, the RV2 weighed in at 45 pounds and the Sanden weighed in at 20, so I’ve saved 25 pounds off the front of the engine.

 

[Sander80]

Getting the ammeter bypass done was high on my priority list. I did it the "easy" way, not doing anything with the bulkhead, just running a new 10ga wire directly from the alternator to the starter relay. Took me longer to drive to and from the parts store for wire and connectors than it did for the actual job.

Here you can also see the new washer nozzle "F" tee that I got from Vans. $10 plus shipping for that little bugger. The original was totally destroyed and leaking, so I had no choice. While I was waiting for the tee to arrive, I took the nozzles off, cleaned the crud out of them and gave them a quick spritz of silver wheel paint. I can now wash my windshield again!

View attachment 582774View attachment 582772

Looks great, to what did you connect the field wire? Mine's currently connected to the battery + and the thick Amp wire straight on the battery. This is how I bought the car.

 

[darth_linux]

Looks great, to what did you connect the field wire? Mine's currently connected to the battery + and the thick Amp wire straight on the battery. This is how I bought the car.

The field wire maintains it's factory connection. Here's a video I made describing some of the details. I've gotten some comments on the video recently that I did "everything wrong," but I've done what many others have done, and I've had zero issues in 18 months.

 

[darth_linux]

I made a short video of the Sanden-style AC Compressor upgrade I did in August, just for folks who like "talkies."

 

[fury fan]

Not to agree with the critic on your YT, but you need to consider that, in the world of DC automotive wiring, that just because you haven't had a problem yet does not mean everything is done properly.
It might just be a problem laying in wait.

This statement by a critic is just plain wrong: "There shouldn’t be any vehicle loads registered on the ammeter while the engine is running. Wired correctly, the ammeter should only register battery charging/discharging current, not any vehicle loads while running.."

There absolutely will be loads registering on the ammeter when the engine is running.
Start the engine and turn on the hazard flashers, and the ammeter needle will wag right along with them.

 

[darth_linux]

Not to agree with the critic on your YT, but you need to consider that, in the world of DC automotive wiring, that just because you haven't had a problem yet does not mean everything is done properly.
It might just be a problem laying in wait.

This statement by a critic is just plain wrong: "There shouldn’t be any vehicle loads registered on the ammeter while the engine is running. Wired correctly, the ammeter should only register battery charging/discharging current, not any vehicle loads while running.."

There absolutely will be loads registering on the ammeter when the engine is running.
Start the engine and turn on the hazard flashers, and the ammeter needle will wag right along with them.

Thanks for your comments. I exchanged emails and comments with him and politely disagreed with him. I am totally aware that problems can and do creep up on you, but I’ve been wrenching on cars for 35+ years and know enough about this stuff to do a simple ammeter bypass without burning the car down. My 18 year old self? Probably not, but I’m good these days. Plus like Eric O says, “it ain’t going to the moon!”

 

[darth_linux]

Finally got dual exhaust with a H pipe installed on the Newport today. It starts out as 2 1/4" at the manifold (original head pipe is 2") and then goes up to 2 1/2" once it gets to the torsion bars. The exhaust flows into a pair of Walker SoundFX 18381 mufflers and empties through a pair of TTI "C Body" 2 1/2" turndowns. Total cost for mufflers, tips and everything else was nearly $1000 - more than I planned, but it's the last exhaust this car will ever need. I'll post a video soon, but let's just say it from sounding "wheezy" to sounding "YOOJ" as Bernie would say.

 

[67_300_Convertible]

Thanks for this thread. Your Newport is beautiful, and I enjoy seeing how you continue to improve it. Enjoy the duals.

 

[carguy300]

Looks real good! Would love to hear it up close live.

 

[darth_linux]

Sneak peak!

 

[fury fan]

Having gotten a few sets of duals done at shops over hte last 30 years, and having done some X-pipe sets myself at home, I will say that guy did a truly beautiful job on them. Pipes all look nice and even and symmetrical.

Although he welded everything - a pet peeve of mine.
I'm a band-clamp guy, I've changed muffler styles a few times over hte years and band-clamps and never-seize are my go-to method.

But again - a beautiful job.

 

[darth_linux]

Well, it took a few weeks to get to making a video because of weather, Daylight Savings time, the election . . . you know, real life stuff. Had to wait for a break in the rain today, but here it is.

I like the sound of the exhaust. It's pretty quiet overall, but opens up when you rev it. The iPhone microphone seems to compress the sound and catch a lot of wind noise, so the true tone doesn't come across as well as it does in person.

In the car while driving, it seems louder, but that's probably due to the sheer size of the mufflers and pipes, being right below the rear seat.

My goal was for a quiet, smooth rumble, not a loud, raspy "Flow Master" or "glass pack" sound. I think I got that. Thanks for watching!

 

[darth_linux]

Something I noticed while reviewing the dual exhaust video is how the grille on the ‘66 Newport harkens to the ‘66 Imperial with the “beveling” around the headlights. It’s not as noticeable when parked, but when moving, and as light interacts at different angles, I suddenly noticed this artifact, which of course can’t be observed while driving. I found it interesting.