68 Fury 3 questions

[kmccabe56]

It's not that, Kevin. It's the idea of having a major component in a car and have it not working that drives me nuts. I remove the bulb from the trunk light and I can't sleep.
When I see $12 - $15K cars for sale and see the heater hose looped, it drives me over the edge.

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" It's the idea of having a major component in a car and have it not working that drives me nuts." With you on that one.

"I remove the bulb from the trunk light and I can't sleep." Oy!

"When I see $12 - $15K cars for sale and see the heater hose looped, it drives me over the edge." I'd just be walking away and chuckling, hoping the seller heard me.

 

[kmccabe56]

Rads are diff based on year, big / small block, 22" vs 26", A/C / No A/C, rows of cooling fins etc. If you have a local radiator shop check with them to see how much to rod it out and weld up leaks.

If you get a different one make sure the inlet and outlets are on the same side as the one you have.

I made the mistake once of getting a "new replacement" rad for one of my cars. Didn't bolt in properly, hose connections were the wrong size, just a whole shopping list of stuff that drove me nuts. I called the rad shop back that I'd gotten it from and asked if they still had my old rad. When they replied `yes', I asked them to recore it and I'd bring their "new" rad back. They did and everything has been fine since.

IIRC in one of the earlier pictures of the car, it has a 4blade fan on it. Swapping on an a/c fan and clutch will help with the cooling as will a shroud. The important thing to remember about a fan is that it doesn't care where it gets the air from that it moves. If it can draw air in around the rad instead of through it, it will. If you have a weatherstrip on the underside of the hood that lines up with the rad yoke, make sure it's installed properly and not all torn up.

There should be lots of shrouds that will fit your rad. Just make sure that when it and the clutch fan are installed, that the blades are half way into the opening. Either side of that and it'll grab air from around the shroud instead of pulling it through the rad.

 

[commando1]

Uh, Gary. Why do I see A flexible upper radiator hose???

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[kmccabe56]

Uh, Gary. Why do I see A flexible upper radiator hose???

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I'll see your looped heater hose and raise you a flex hose.

 

[70NPORT]

Uh, Gary. Why do I see A flexible upper radiator hose???

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I knew it draw your ire.

 

[commando1]

No ire. Just chagrin
For shame! For shame!! Lol

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[70NPORT]

The formed hose wasn't flexible enough so I figured the ribbed on would be better. It will bend and move around easier when I'm doing stuff under the hood. Just a matter of function.

 

[68furyIII]

I made the mistake once of getting a "new replacement" rad for one of my cars. Didn't bolt in properly, hose connections were the wrong size, just a whole shopping list of stuff that drove me nuts. I called the rad shop back that I'd gotten it from and asked if they still had my old rad. When they replied `yes', I asked them to recore it and I'd bring their "new" rad back. They did and everything has been fine since.

IIRC in one of the earlier pictures of the car, it has a 4blade fan on it. Swapping on an a/c fan and clutch will help with the cooling as will a shroud. The important thing to remember about a fan is that it doesn't care where it gets the air from that it moves. If it can draw air in around the rad instead of through it, it will. If you have a weatherstrip on the underside of the hood that lines up with the rad yoke, make sure it's installed properly and not all torn up.

There should be lots of shrouds that will fit your rad. Just make sure that when it and the clutch fan are installed, that the blades are half way into the opening. Either side of that and it'll grab air from around the shroud instead of pulling it through the rad.

Can you be more specific as to a/c fan and clutch please? It does have a 4 blade fan that appears kind of small but I assume is stock.

 

[tallhair]

Ribbed for your protection and for her pleasure

 

[68furyIII]

Did some of my posts get deleted? I know I posted some links to parts for reference and now they're not here?

 

[kmccabe56]

This is my new car checklist every time.
Buy a Factory Service Manual.
Oil, filter, and grease job. Don't forget the U-joints.
Flush system coolant and then new thermostat, heater and radiator hoses
Air filter and PCV valve and fuel filter.
All belts.
Pull drums and inspect brakes and brake fluid.
Check tranny fluid.
Tires of course including spare and jack.
Check steering, braking, handling, and ride.. New shocks are very likely.
Examine exhaust.
Check all electrical components: head lights, brake lights, parking lights, directionals, rear plate lamp, side marker lights, interior lights, instrument panel lights, switchs , and gauges,

That's before you put it into weekend duty. Deal with everything else individually as they pop up once on the road.

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Gees, Stan, haven't you made that a sticky yet????

 

[commando1]

Common sense stuff need not be stickied.

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[kmccabe56]

Can you be more specific as to a/c fan and clutch please? It does have a 4 blade fan that appears kind of small but I assume is stock.

Yes. the four blade fan is stock. And when the system was new and nothing was plugged up internally, it could handle all the heat just fine. But as stuff ages and isn't maintained, the ability of the cooling system to do its job diminishes. An A/C fan will have more blades, usually 7. Stay away from flex fans and fans with an even number of blades or blades evenly spaced around the fan hub. Your radio will thank you when you've got it cranked full on, out on the highway and you still can't hear it over the fan noise.

The clutch is the large ribbed piece that you see `inside' the big fans. It's thermostatically controlled, internally, by the temperature of the air coming through the rad. The cooler the air, the more the clutch slips, the hotter it is the more the clutch tightens up. Saves h/p and improves fuel economy in cooler weather. I don't recall seeing a compressor in your car so I'm thinking it doesn't have a/c. Yes, the aluminum fans will work fine, but they're bigger than the stock fan. Copper cools better than aluminum. If you choose to re-core your existing rad, talk to the rad shop about a "big" two core rad as opposed to a "small" three core rad. The core itself will be the same overall thickness either way (since it's going to mount to your upper and lower tanks). The longer an individual row of tubes is, the more heat the row will give up. By having just two rows of tubes, the second row is not going to have to deal with as much heat from the first row as it would if the core had three rows. Essentially in a three row core, the third row is trying to give up it's heat to the air that's already passed the first row of tubes, and physically can't give up as much heat, because the air is that much hotter when it gets to the third row.

But as someone has pointed out already, it's your car and your choice.

What I don't recall your mechanic mentioning to you is that if the bottom portion of the rad and the lower rad hose is plugged with crap, it's almost guaranteed that the bottom of the water jackets in the block are plugged up too, which isn't helping your overheating problem in the slightest. There should be 1/8" pipe plugs with square heads on each side of the block, likely near the back and just above the pan rail. Very carefully remove those and don't be surprised if the block doesn't leak a drop. Start poking with a small screwdriver to see how much crud and crap you can get out. If it's really bad, you should consider knocking out the frost plugs and scraping the insides as far as you can reach and flushing everything like crazy.

When you get to the point you're going to do the timing chain and gears, not only is a new water pump a good idea (since you've got the front cover off), but it's also a good idea to drop the oil pan, clean it out and either checking some bearing clearances with plasti-gage or roll in a new set of main and rod bearings. It's relatively easily done with the oil pan off and at 90some thousand miles on the car, just a good idea overall.

As for oil, any 10w30 will work (that's what was called for when the car was new), but you'll need to find an additive that's rich in zinc and manganese. These two minerals have been pretty much removed from modern oils because engines with roller tappet camshafts don't need it. Cars the age of yours (and well up into the 1980s do. GM actually makes a pretty good one. Go into the parts counter and ask for "Engine Oil Supplement". About ¼ of a can is all you need for one oil change. Some time back in the 1970s, Chrysler adopted a new "shorty" oil filter, whereas your car takes a long filter. I personally like to continue to use the long filter on a car that was meant to have them. You might have to dig around to find them, but they're out there. If you have to, you can get away with the shorty filter.

The transmission uses normal garden variety Dexron. Probably the closest thing to it nowadays is called DexronIII. Stay away from anything with a fancier name or a higher number. The filter kits are readily available, and after 45+ years, a fluid and filter change will be well appreciated by your trans. Check the pan for dimpled bolt holes and check online for the best way to flatten those out so that you get the best seal you can when you put the pan back on.

 

[68furyIII]

Okay so if I got a new aluminum radiator and universal 16" electric fan can someone tell me what parts I would need to make the new fan work? I could of swore I saw a post with an electrical diagram of a relay and one other component required. I'm sure my auto body buddy would know but I wouldn't mind being able to work on it at home without having to take it to his shop.

Thanks again

 

[68blackbird]

 

[68furyIII]

Deleted

 

[68furyIII]

Is it possible the overheating is due to someone installing the wrong temperature thermostat? Amongst other obvious issues. I know my grandfather had a new thermostat put in a few years back but I don't know if it was stock spec or not.

I know they're cheap should I pick one up and install it while I have the cooling system drained for replacement anyway? 180 degrees is stock right?

 

[commando1]

Stock is 190 ( or 195. I forget which). So it can't have the 'wrong" thermostat per se if looking at the thermostat as the cause of over heating.
180 is as low as you want to go. Forget about 160.

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[mgm1986]

Is it possible the overheating is due to someone installing the wrong temperature thermostat? Amongst other obvious issues. I know my grandfather had a new thermostat put in a few years back but I don't know if it was stock spec or not.

I know they're cheap should I pick one up and install it while I have the cooling system drained for replacement anyway? 180 degrees is stock right?

I am not an expert by any stretch and the obvious issues of coolant passages being clogged, hoses kinked, radiator fins bent etc. have been mentioned. On my '68 Fury III w/318, I had a bit of overheating when I replaced my distributor; the timing was too far advanced. The ping that developed under load was the giveaway and the temp gauge also sat considerably higher. It use to sit solid in the middle and was now sitting about 2/3 on the gauge. After retarding the timing it cleared right up.

Easy to check if you have the timing light.

I would need to check my FSM for stock temp gauge. Did you get a FSM yet? If not you can download it from the web for free until you get a real paper copy of one.

Check out this site:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

And you will be able to download the FSM from here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[greasemonkeyman]

Spend a little time flushing out the system.You may have sludge built up within your cooling passages and radiator.This is what I would do......first,I would drain the old antifreeze in the cooling system.Second I would remove the lower hose at the base of the radiator and place a garden hose into the top neck of the radiator.I would let the vehicle run for about five to ten minutes with just the water from the hose flushing the crud from within the system.Keep an eye on this as you can easily overheat the car if there isn't enough water flowing thru the system or if the hose slips out. Also disconnect the hoses from the heater core and flush them from both directions with a garden hose until you see clear water flowing thru.Fill the system up with plain water after you reattach your hoses.Run the car about twenty minutes (preferably on the hwy),then disconnect the lower hose and run water thru the system again until it comes clear.Let all the water drain out of the system and tighten up your hoses.Now would be a good time to replace your water pump (about $30-40) and hoses ($10-15 each),and thermostat ( $7 ).Top up your cooling system with a 50/50 mix of Antifreeze and distilled water and you should be set!