69 fury project car

[69mopar man]

We’ll I bought a 69 fury from country classics in illinois that was a southern Arkansas car with no rust and a lot of body dings and body work that needs to be done the car runs rough and needs as I’m finding out everything, I replaced gas tank and sending unit, brakes, blasted rims and put on new michilins, changed the oil and now it has a distinct rod tapping noise,which I didn’t hear when I bought it, so I just wanted something realiable to drive to car shows and to the lakeshore, I bought the car for 8k and I’m at the point where I don’t know what to do as I didn’t realize that everything because of age alone has to be replaced like brake lines etc , what should I do cut my losses and sell the car ? I think I got in over my head I’m not a mechanic and I let my sentimental feelings get the best of me because my dad bought the same car when I was a kid only in station wagon but same color and interior and it was supposed to be something fun but not put me in the poor house, not to mention parts for this car are harder to get than a model y because they reproduce everything on a model t, any thoughts from you Mopar experts would sure help

 

[69mopar man]

The exhaust is shot from manifold back , there’s wiring issues, heater doesn’t work, replaced brakes and master brake cylinder and there still Spongy also the owners manual shows the same size springs on front shoe as the rear shoe but all the hardware kits have a chubby blue spring and with that spring you can’t use adjuster, shocks are shot , and I wonder about all the suspension parts I’m not a mechanic and I’m in way over my head any ideas?

 

[1970FuryConv]

I feel for you. You've run into a very common problem. Every Mopar C – body that I have bought has taken at least twice as long to do as I projected when I bought it. With 50-year-old cars there are all kinds of hidden problems that come out. It often feels like you solve one problem just to have 2 new ones appear. I can tell you is that there is light at the end of the tunnel. Eventually as you continue to work on them, the cars get roadworthy and then they're fun. It's just a matter of whether you want to do all the work and whether you have the money to do the work. If you don't, you could always put it up for sale for $8000 in the for-sale forum here. However, I hope you finish the car. I think it'll be worth it.

There ought to be a blues song: Mid Car Project Blues.
I got the mid car project blues
I'm running out of time and I've got to choose.
If I sell, I'm going to lose.
I got no friends to help
I'm running out-a dime
I'm running out-a time
I got the mid car Project blues

After you sing that song, just remember, they're are a joy to drive when you finish them.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Geeee a car from "Country Classics in Illinois" with a "distinct rod tapping noise"? Who'da thought.

I think you are over your head, 'Rods' knock, tappets 'Tap' you need a good ear to distinguish from the two.
Small block Mopar engines will develop a lifter 'Tap' when fired up from sitting for a long period due to lifter leak down. A good long drive at highway speeds with a fresh oil change will most likely cure that.

If all else fails dump it, if it wasn't green I'd give ya a grand for it.


.

 

[Big_John]

Project cars can be frustrating. Given what's going on, I have my doubts if you could resell that car for anything near what you have in it. That's a hard pill to swallow, but there it is.

So.... Exhaust can be done a couple ways. A good muffler shop might be able to do something, if you have one near you. TTI would have a replacement dual system, but it's a little pricey. You can also start searching eBay and the like and maybe you can find some original replacement exhaust if that's your choice.

As said, the "tapping" is very likely lifter noise, especially if you just changed the oil. It will quiet down, but some 318 will just do that, especially with some miles. I would suspect that the mileage showing actually is 100K more.

Brakes.... If they are spongy, chances are really good you just haven't bleed them correctly or enough. If the pedal sinks, then it's a bad master cylinder or a leak. Get yourself a service manual here: Service Manuals – MyMopar and figure out the springs. Are you sure it needs brake lines? A rust free car shouldn't need them. Hoses, yes, replace them.

Shocks aren't bad to do, although it can be a struggle with front shocks. Rears are very easy. An inspection of the front end will tell you a lot, but I'm not going to be surprised if the lower control arm bushings are toast. If you can find a shop familiar with older Mopars, you may be time and money ahead to farm that part out.

Body... Leave it alone. Bodywork is EXPENSIVE and that car will sit in someone's shop for a year. Drive it as is and you won't have to worry so much about where you park it.

C-Body cars are a labor of love. The stuff you are talking about is minor compared to other project cars.... and as you've found out, collector car dealers don't necessarily sell "turn key" cars. Having others work on it can be expensive and frustrating. What you have is the start of a good driver with some fairly normal "old car" repairs. Don't get discouraged. Take one project at a time. If you need to find someone to work on your car, start a thread here, giving your location. We have a lot of people in that area that might be able to help you find someone.

 

[shooter65]

Looks like you're newer to the forum, I wouldn't throw the towel in yet. Get it safe to drive and the body does look very good. As stated above, i wouldn't worry about the body work, you have a nice driver once you get it safe. If you can get it safe to drive, that will probably encourage you to keep it and fix it as you have the time, money and/or learn how to do it yourself. Finding a good mechanic is like finding a good barber or a good gunsmith. It might take you time but stay away from chains, look for a private mechanic.

 

[57fury440]

Spongy brakes sounds like they need to be bled some more. Did you start from the back and work forward? The tapping like said above is likely lifters and may get better after being driven some more. The car doesn't look bad and I would leave the body alone. I would look for a muffler shop that has a pipe bender and let them give you a price on the exhaust. Don't get discouraged. It's an old car and the problems you are facing are not unusual. Go to Rock Auto for the shocks and there are fairly easy to install. Good luck.

 

[GregG48203]

my dad bought the same car when I was a kid

Memories of your dad and your childhood can sometimes be rekindled through an old car. The crushing reality is that the car is an entity unto itself. It has its own wants and needs, and these usually have a price attached.
For me, I enjoy doing the work; however, my enjoyment has a limit of time and price. If you are at your limit, give yourself time and space to reevaluate your priorities. It may give you a fresh perspective on the whole project.

 

[cbarge]

As your thread states a project car...I had owned and worked on projects worse then yours.
At least yours runs and drives so count your blessings there!
As others mentioned get a factory shop manual and start doing some bowl reading.
By being a member here on this forum is also a great resource of information,tips and network to source out parts.
We are all happy to help out as long as you hsve thick skin and provide as much information as possible.
My gf and I have a 69 Fury so feel free to private message me with any electrical questions..
So Jack, dont give up on the green giant. Once you climb up and down the beanstalk, the rewards outweigh the frustrations.

 

[polaratherapy]

Stick with it, step back some times, fix another part of the car that needs attention.
The Polara I bought last October is like an onion, peeling back layers discovering new issues but in it for the long haul. I haven't come across anything I won't tackle myself yet, knock on wood!
When I got it from from Sudbury, Ontario I knew it would have issues being parked outside for 8 years in a temp. shelter. I'm a fun builder and have to be because my car was raped beyond belief so she will never get back to stock, too much bad stuff was done to it! Good thing it came with a service manual!
A lot of good guys and info on this site that will steer you in the right direction, thick skin required, silence required at times, ranges from purists to obsessed and all the way down to fun builders like me.
Sometimes you hit the wall and think you can't get beyond it because you've never done it before.
Great threads to check out here, got me over the stumped hump a few times. The mad hatters on this site are a good lot, I'm sure they are on here everyday.

Have a nice day!

 

[Ed Wagner]

Here's your chance to learn to be a mechanic. Truth is there's not much on these cars that's hard to do. Not like the new crap which you need a technician with 10 years of manufacturer's training to fix anything on it.
Also remember...the same parts on this car will cost 1/10th what they do on a new one. Just had a 2014 Chrysler alternator replced: $1200!