'71 Monaco 4 door barn find

[CBODY67]

According to the 1971 Plymouth order guide at www.hamtramck-historical.com , 1971 was something of a transitional year for Chrysler engines.

The '71 SFGT had the normal-cam 440 as standard, but with an 8.8CR and dual exhausts. The 440HP was still available, with 9.5CR, as an option. In '72, everything was at 8.2CR.

CBODY67

 

[chilsam]

Those of us that grew up in the 70's are nodding our heads in acknowledgment of the familiar. "Yep. I know what those are...."

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canisters for 1 hitter weed...

 

[ayilar]

When I bought my '70 DH43N used, with about 80K miles, I checked the VIN and it was "N", for "383 HP", yet the owners manual only showed the 383 2bbl. The car had a March,1970 build date on the door VIN decal. THAT is important.
(..)
So, they did exist, just not for initial ordering in the fall for show date. As all of the order guides and such would have had to be available for show date, that means they were printed sometime in August of 1969. Why the FSM has the items and the others do not, "a mystery" of sorts.

FWIW, DL27N0D177316 (an FF4 Light Green Metallic 1970 Polara 'vert that has been repainted ER6 red and now lives in New Zealand) has a Scheduled Build Date (SBD) of Dec. 15, 1969. That info is from the 2008 Excel spreadsheet created by @polara71 -- it is the oldest SBD I have for an N-code 1970 Polara. In contrast, I have several early-build 1970 Fury N-codes in my small database.

@69CoronetRT

 

[Jeremiah]

I thought you folks might be interested to see the door sticker. There is a large Ziploc bag in the glove box with service records for the car. Those should be interesting to look through. I was kind of surprised there wasn't a window sticker included with the car.

Thank you guys for all of the good information.

 

[69CoronetRT]

FWIW, DL27N0D177316 (an FF4 Light Green Metallic 1970 Polara 'vert that has been repainted ER6 red and now lives in New Zealand) has a Scheduled Build Date (SBD) of Dec. 15, 1969. That info is from the 2008 Excel spreadsheet created by @polara71 -- it is the oldest SBD I have for an N-code 1970 Polara. In contrast, I have several early-build 1970 Fury N-codes in my small database.

@69CoronetRT

I think it's fair to expect to find at least some N codes from that time. Page 61 of the 10/69 Order Guide lists E63 383-4bbl as being available as an option.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - The 1970 Dodge Division Code Guide - Dodge Full Size

 

[SportFuryman]

A friend of mine that runs a tow company brought this to me. It was found in a barn outside of Mt Shasta, CA. It has 64k miles and runs aside from a cracked driver side exhaust manifold.

In my opinion it has an odd combination of options:

383-4bbl, N code
A/C
PDB
Remote hood release
Rear defog
Rear speaker with fader

No power anything in the cab (windows/locks/seat) gives it a bit of police car vibe along with the alpine white exterior.

Hopefully it has a 3.23 suregrip!

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Wow what a nice find! Love the red interior!

 

[fury fan]

According to the 1971 Plymouth order guide at www.hamtramck-historical.com , 1971 was something of a transitional year for Chrysler engines.

The '71 SFGT had the normal-cam 440 as standard, but with an 8.8CR and dual exhausts. The 440HP was still available, with 9.5CR, as an option. In '72, everything was at 8.2CR.

CBODY67

My memory is that 1970 SFGT had the standard cam and dual exh (rated at 360hp?) but 71 had the HP cam and was rated at 370hp - down from 375 in the 1970 HP rating.
IIRC the CR in 1971 a little lower than 1970 (was around 9.2 vs 9.5 or 9.7) and that went along with the 5hp drop. CR was definitely not in the 8s in 71.

I think the early 71 pilot cars and/or might've gotten the standard cam, though?

 

[CBODY67]

Not working from memory. The figures I mentioned came out of the Order Guide for 1971. Including the CR figures. I didn't remember that 8.8CR, but then I was not paying attention to or aware of how Chrysler was changing the cams and such in particular cars, back then. I DO remember the 383 2bbls going from 9.2 to 8.7, though. I was only concerned about the 383s and 440HP motors.

The thing that interests me is the use of the normal 440, but with dual exhaust, rather than the full-on 440HP motor. itself? As the PK cars had a similar normal 440 in them, too. Was there something in the law enforcement bid specs that caused this? Or was the 440HP weaker in the lower rpms those cars normally operated in? Did the extra weight of the Fuselage vs Slabs have a bearing on these things?

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Jeremiah]

We have located an exhaust manifold! Hopefully we can tackle that project over the weekend.

A few twilight glamour shots you might enjoy:

 

[Jeremiah]

Manifold is installed! We made our maiden voyage around the ranch without incident.

There are exhaust leaks, it needs tires, a carb kit and the fuel line is plugged up at the tank. I also noticed the speedometer is not working.

New tires, a windshield/gasket, carb kit/tune up, change diff/727 fluids and correcting the fuel delivery problem has me budgeting about $2k to get to "I'd drive it anywhere" status.

Hopefully one of my project cars or flip cars will sell to fund the next stage of resurrection.

I don't use money from my day job to fund the car shop stuff so we have to work our way into the next project by doing more work. This one might sit on the back burner for a few months because it is race car time

Thanks so far for all of the encouragement and helpful information.

 

[Turbo301]

Those really are very nicely-proportioned and styled cars.

 

[Jeremiah]

We are making progress!

Since the last update I found a owner-driver for this car. A good friend that is retired said "let's do it" and off we went.

That development predicated a large Summit Racing order for everything needed right down to the carb cleaner and motor oil. With the prices at the parts houses
through the roof it is easier for the stuff to come to me. I was also fortunate enough to score a 10% Summit code to help out my friend.

Here is a list of work I performed:

Tires replaced
Brakes serviced
Carb rebuild
Spark plugs/wires/pertronix
Transmission service
Lube-oil-filter
Replace water pump
Replace acc drive belts
Replace radiator, 1 cooler line
Service brake system
Replace headlights
Lubricate all hinges
Replace mufflers
Replace inner/outter tie rods
Replace idler arm
Check alignment, correct toe
Clean fuel lines, r'n'r rubber
Remove gas tank for cleaning
Repair gas tank sending unit
Replace fuel pump/filter
Repaired broken sway bar link

So far, the car runs great with a few exceptions. The major issue I am having is with the front brake calipers.

I have been exploring options to either rebuild or replace the calipers. Can you folks give me some insight on my options? The rotors only appear to have been cut one time so they are likely usable along with the pads if necessary (we are on somewhat of a budget).

I also have a replacement windshield on order while we round up the parts to repair the driver front fender.

The AM radio with fader works perfect. I felt pretty dumb the first time I went under power lines with the radio on. Instinctively, I moved my phone from the seat up to the dash board.

Then is dawned on me....this isn't Pandora playing lol. How soon we forget the past!

Thanks for any insight on the brakes.

 

[CBODY67]

The least you can cut the rotors, the better. Might not like "new-pretty", but they still work great. Of course, if there is some pulsation when braking, that's another situation. So, if they have a "work-smoothed" surface, don't cut them, just have a longer wear-in period for the new pads.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67

 

[fury fan]

Calipers are AWOL at hte parts store and must be rebuilt.
Pistons and seals can be used from E-body calipers, those parts are available new.

 

[Jeremiah]

To clarify, if I order a two piece seal kit for a 72 Charger or Challenger this will work? Is the piston identical also?

 

[fury fan]

Yes to both.
Rock Auto has a good interchange tool (it is sometimes not completley accurate, though).
If you click on a part# (yellow) it shows interchange amongst vehicles.
The 'info' button often shows some dimensions or other good info.

 

[Jeremiah]

Yes to both.
Rock Auto has a good interchange tool (it is sometimes not completley accurate, though).
If you click on a part# (yellow) it shows interchange amongst vehicles.
The 'info' button often shows some dimensions or other good info.


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Thank you that is where I was comparing part numbers. Sometimes RockAuto isn't 100% depending on the year and model so I thought I'd better double check. I'll report back when I get some seals in have everything apart.

 

[fury fan]

Based on report by @david hill and perhaps some others, the pistons/seals are a known interchange.
I hope so anyway, I bought 4 sets for the 4 core calipers I have on the shelf. Bought the calipers as cores in panic-mode when I learned reman calipers went OOP.