72 Newport made it home

[Duncan]

Also, how does it ride? Does it need new shocks? The reason I ask is because I bought an older vehicle a few years ago that took all of my concentration to keep on the road. I knew the shocks were bad so replaced them but had no idea the effect they could have. Once I replaced the shocks the vehicle went down the road just as straight and true as could be with no effort. I would definitely do all that applies as suggested above but also consider the shocks for even more assurance.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Really you need to inspect front end components for wear. Make a list any questions take a picture or ask we can help.
Which directions or positions are the upper control arm pivot cams. There is no need to get alignment till you know the condition of joints and bushings.
I have a feeling that you have little if any caster in the car most likely from a get it out the door alignment. To get where it should be the rear bolt should be all the way in and the front bolt should be out board up to the 12 o'clock, that is how you get the most positive caster and a smidge of negative camber (top of the tire leans in).
BTW I believe the factory spec for input shaft on the steering box is like .004, most you will find have .125-.250. Some reference for you to judge how bad your box is. Even with that much play the car with a good positive caster alignment will be stable.
You have some work to do. Go shake down your front end and look at the condition of the bushings also note the positions of cam bolts.

 

[Jon O.]

Really you need to inspect front end components for wear. Make a list any questions take a picture or ask we can help.
Which directions or positions are the upper control arm pivot cams. There is no need to get alignment till you know the condition of joints and bushings.
I have a feeling that you have little if any caster in the car most likely from a get it out the door alignment. To get where it should be the rear bolt should be all the way in and the front bolt should be out board up to the 12 o'clock, that is how you get the most positive caster and a smidge of negative camber (top of the tire leans in).
BTW I believe the factory spec for input shaft on the steering box is like .004, most you will find have .125-.250. Some reference for you to judge how bad your box is. Even with that much play the car with a good positive caster alignment will be stable.
You have some work to do. Go shake down your front end and look at the condition of the bushings also note the positions of cam bolts.

Well I didn't describe well enough. The car stays going perfectly in the direction you put it in. By drifting I mean that the road moved, not the car. When you turn the wheel it takes a few inches before you start turning, and then it happens all at once. It is very very easy to overcorrect. Looking at the pitman arm and the gear box, the shaft from the wheel has a lot of play / about 2-3 o clock before the pitman arm starts moving. I couldn't adjust the box with the car jacked because It started raining. I did a little turning on the ground and it drove a little better. But my bad description was "drifting". The car stays going where you point it, but it has a lot of slack in the wheel before it turns.

 

[Jon O.]

Also, how does it ride? Does it need new shocks? The reason I ask is because I bought an older vehicle a few years ago that took all of my concentration to keep on the road. I knew the shocks were bad so replaced them but had no idea the effect they could have. Once I replaced the shocks the vehicle went down the road just as straight and true as could be with no effort. I would definitely do all that applies as suggested above but also consider the shocks for even more assurance.

Other than steering, it rides extremely smooth. It has decent shocks.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

. It is very very easy to overcorrect

Not enough positive caster. Also too much toe out will make it seem twitchy, this show be noticable after a 400 mile drive.

 

[Jon O.]

I have a side question. The coolant overflow tank was replaced at some point. Could one of you tell me where the original one should be at?

 

[oliver]

The overflow thank you have is an add-on. Originally there was none for this particular year/model. I've owned several 1972's and all of them only had an overflow hose that didn't capture any of the overflow

 

[Jon O.]

The overflow thank you have is an add-on. Originally there was none for this particular year/model. I've owned several 1972's and all of them only had an overflow hose that didn't capture any of the overflow

Well actually the add on is a hose going into an antifreeze bottle (real professional). So does the hose connect to anything? I know it cant just be loose in front of the fan

 

[Davea Lux]

There should be some capture clips on the passenger side of the radiator to hold the hose.

Dave

 

[Jon O.]

There should be some capture clips on the passenger side of the radiator to hold the hose.

Dave

Thanks

 

[cantflip]

The wheel makes a quarter turn before anything happens. It seems to click a little then start to move the wheels.

Lots of good advice in here... but much of it misses this problem.

To start, you need a very thorough inspection of the steering and suspension.

If you doubt your abilities to diagnose this problem, there are lots of competent mechanics out there who can. Nothing about this is really difficult, if someone cares enough to spend the time to do it right.

 

[ricks_RR]

I have not read everything in the threat but I have a 1972 Newport and my steering is very touchy as well it is normal for these cars mine only has 47,000 miles on it. its the way they where built Chrysler changed it in the next few years so it was not so touchy .

 

[Jon O.]

Lots of good advice in here... but much of it misses this problem.

To start, you need a very thorough inspection of the steering and suspension.

If you doubt your abilities to diagnose this problem, there are lots of competent mechanics out there who can. Nothing about this is really difficult, if someone cares enough to spend the time to do it right.

From what I have read here, I think it is the worn steering gear. Last year the engine was rebuilt, and I think steering work was done then. From what I can see the bushings look fairly new. But I have yet to get it off the ground, I just poked around underneath with a flashlight. This weekend I plan on jacking it up and taking a gander at it all.

 

[cantflip]

From what I have read here, I think it is the worn steering gear. Last year the engine was rebuilt, and I think steering work was done then. From what I can see the bushings look fairly new. But I have yet to get it off the ground, I just poked around underneath with a flashlight. This weekend I plan on jacking it up and taking a gander at it all.

A couple degrees of "freeplay" is normal, but 90* is a safety issue. I'm glad you're addressing this, and as much as a replacement or rebuild of your box will suck, it beats killing the car or yourself.

When you're under there pictures or video to show the play would be a great way to help the board here focus on your problem. Lots of folks with really good information in here.

If you really get stuck, the right guy for your eventual alignment will be able to identify the cause for you too... no alignment is possible when there is one or more worn out components... whatever setting they make on the rack will change the moment the car moves. Tire stores mostly have crappy "toe and go" alignment thiefs who don't care if somethings not right, but there are some really good ones out there too.

Unrelated to your problem, but you should check all bushings at the rear too, prior to the alignment.

 

[Jon O.]

I took a video but I cant figure out how to get it on here. Here are some pictures instead. I jacked up one side and did the best adjustment I could with one side off the ground. After what I could do, the slack is MUCH better than before. It is almost near normal. The pictures are with the car off, wheel far left, and right. This is how much slack there is before you start turning. I have not driven the car after adjustment yet, but it is a million times better. Oh and that buzzer when the key is in has to be one of the most annoying sounds I have ever heard - thanks Chrysler!

 

[Jon O.]

I took a video but I cant figure out how to get it on here. Here are some pictures instead. I jacked up one side and did the best adjustment I could with one side off the ground. After what I could do, the slack is MUCH better than before. The pictures are with the car off, wheel far left, and right. This is how much slack there is before you start turning at all.

View attachment 146911

 

[Jon O.]

Here are a few show off pictures for fun too! Do any of you have original build sheets for your cars? It also has the original jack (which scares me) perfect original interior, original paint, vinyl roof, and a surprisingly clean engine.

 

[Jon O.]

90* is a safety issue. I'm glad you're addressing this, and as much as a replacement or rebuild of your box will suck, it beats killing the car or yourself.
QUOTE]
That is exactly why I am trying to fix it, adjusting best as I could with the car half-jacked made a huge difference. I haven't driven the car since I got it home. As much as I want to go for a joy ride, my, someone else's, or the car's life isn't worth it.

 

[oliver]

... a nice green steering wheel with no cracks; and the fuel gauge works. That's a very nice Newport you got.
Enjoy it!

 

[Jon O.]

... a nice green steering wheel with no cracks; and the fuel gauge works. That's a very nice Newport you got.
Enjoy it!

It was very well taken care of, even the top of the dash is perfect. Other than steering, it's like it just rolled off the line!