Aftermarket Radiator

[Gerald Morris]

unfortunately new doesn't always mean good...

VERY WISE WORDS!

while chasing an overheating issue on my 454 motorhome I wound up installing a defective thermostat and fan clutch...boiling it along with thermostat #3 proved it didn't open soon enough or as far...and every parts house I hit , regardless of their online description, was selling the exact same Motorad thermostat in a different box...

YEP! I won't touch WHY this situation prevails, but it does. My Solution is to hoard NOS Robert Shaw 370s, among other solid brass treasures from the Golden Age. Been running the same stat for a couple years now, with excellent results, so I likely have a Lifetime Supply, barring getting an NSF grant to research driving slab side C-body Mopars vs A & B bodies from the same era.

I also noticed that I couldn't hear fan clutch #2 kicking in with the increased roar of the fan when the temp went up sitting at a light....so 3rd fan clutch...all of which ,whether you get a Hayden,NAPA, 4 Seasons or Murray are also the exact same part in a different box...so you cant even try another brand, its just keep buying the same part till you hopefully get a good one

I got a good fan clutch, NOS for Mopar, made in the old Bundesrepublik. (West Germany) 3 yrs service so far.

It took several years of training my search engines to find NOS/NORS parts quickly, and sort them, but I did.

Sometimes one MUST buy a modern part, alas. Check industrial supplies for stuff with the proper specs, measurements. Timken still makes tapered roller bearings that WILL work for our rides, though they're not meant for them for example.

MANY of the old brand name companies are just fronts and shells now for PLA or I$raeli factories. Motorad is one such, and they use Stant's name. Carter wraps sino-crap, et cetera, ad nauseam.

 

[mr gtx]

I had outstanding results with my "332" radiator as I've discussed here years ago. And other than the absence of the OEM part number and info stampings on the top tank, it looks entirely stock, unlike the very ugly aluminum units. My TNT would run between 190 and 200 depending on the weather, which are proper operating temps. I've noticed that guys install 160* or 185* 'stats and then expect the engine to run at that particular temp. Good luck with that, because that's not what a thermostat is for. The intent is that the engine won't run too cold in freezing weather and will warm up quicker by recirculating the coolant until that 'stat opens. And remember that the cooling system is pressurized. If you're using a 16 psi cap, that raises the boiling point to approximately 250*F, so if you're running it hard on a hot day, 225* is not out of line. Mine would do that and then return to 195 or so when I returned to driving like an adult.

This pic shows the lower holes that needed a slight mod to open the bottoms so that the rad slips onto the bolts loosely installed in the core support, but otherwise the fit and finish was perfect. The original shroud nicely aligned the the six mounting studs, btw.

Also, I installed a brand new Chrysler approved repro clutch from Tony's Parts. Store - All Reproduction Parts | Tonys Parts

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could you give us the part # for the hoses and which one is upper and bottom thank you.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

could you give us the part # for the hoses and which one is upper and bottom thank you.

I simply went to RockAuto and clicked on standard quality hoses, the radiator, etc. for a 1970 300. No big deal.

Gates 20630 Upper
Dayco 70592 Lower

I see that the Dayco is no longer listed with them. Now it's a Continental 60659.

 

[live4theking]

If my memory is correct when I needed a hose several years ago for my 68 NYer I ended up getting one for a Roadrunner. I just made sure it had the same engine in it.