Alternator putting out over 16 volts

[FURYGT]

I thought the ones with the resistors on the bottom is the mechanical voltage regulator and the solid bars is the solid state

I stand corrected. I got things reversed. Here is a photo of a solid state VR.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Then I guess you learned something new today because the manufacturer of the voltage regulators that I sell lists a maximum of 65 amps.

Well..........Maybe you sell a regulator with a max Amp rating and it gives you a fuzzy feeling but my point is this. A voltage regulator regulates voltage period. It does not take into consideration as to how many amps the alternator is generating. It's job is to keep the system at a desired voltage. Nothing more. Here is more proof. I have a 68 Charger with an 06 SRT 6.1 Hemi. The 6.1 alternator has a 160 amp rating. The computer normally regulates the voltage internally via two field wires. If there were any amps flowing through those two wires they would need to be way bigger than the size 22 they are. When the PCM internal regulator fails, there is a recommended fix. The fix is to bypass the PCM and install an external regulator like the 1970-1987 cars used. We are talking about installing the same regulator used on a 1970 35 Amp system on a 160 Amp Alternator. As I said before and you gave me the big red X......The regulator does not care about amperes. I would have returned your red X in post 23 but I agree with almost all of it.

 

[furious70]

Well it sounds like the old mechanical ones had current pass through them? If so then 2 people are correct.

Hasn't been said in this thread yet, but amp capacity of an alt doesn't matter, it's the draw of the components hooked up in the car. A 160a alt will only ever produce 30a if that's all the system needs

 

[stubs300]

Here is a photo of a solid state VR.

I've gone through 3 of those CPS with nothing but problems before I wised up and went with the newer style regulators. I know of others have had problems with them too. I'm not getting into another pissing match about these from people that say otherwise! Do yourself a favor, just upgrade to the new style regulator and be done with it! Good Luck

 

[Big_John]

Well..........Maybe you sell a regulator with a max Amp rating and it gives you a fuzzy feeling but my point is this. A voltage regulator regulates voltage period. It does not take into consideration as to how many amps the alternator is generating. It's job is to keep the system at a desired voltage. Nothing more. Here is more proof. I have a 68 Charger with an 06 SRT 6.1 Hemi. The 6.1 alternator has a 160 amp rating. The computer normally regulates the voltage internally via two field wires. If there were any amps flowing through those two wires they would need to be way bigger than the size 22 they are. When the PCM internal regulator fails, there is a recommended fix. The fix is to bypass the PCM and install an external regulator like the 1970-1987 cars used. We are talking about installing the same regulator used on a 1970 35 Amp system on a 160 Amp Alternator. As I said before and you gave me the big red X......The regulator does not care about amperes. I would have returned your red X in post 23 but I agree with almost all of it.

Well it sounds like the old mechanical ones had current pass through them? If so then 2 people are correct.

Hasn't been said in this thread yet, but amp capacity of an alt doesn't matter, it's the draw of the components hooked up in the car. A 160a alt will only ever produce 30a if that's all the system needs

Simplified explanation....

All the regulator does is turn the field off and on. All it does... it senses voltage, sees that it's down, switches the field on and then off when it hits the right voltage. No current passes through them. Don't believe me? Look at the small wires going to the field connectors. 65 amps would fry those pretty fast...

Mechanical or electronic regulators do the same job... The electronic ones do it a little better and (in theory) are more reliable because of no moving parts. It's still just turning the field off and on.

The current load is what's important with alternator sizing. You can bolt a 100 amp alternator on a car that has a 35 amp draw and it's not going to fry anything. All you are going to draw is 35 amps and all the alternator is ever going to do is put out 35 amps. Put a giant amplifier or two, and A/C system, fuel pumps etc. and now your are drawing more than 35 amps and your 100 amp alternator is now going to do its job and then you should be increasing wire size etc. Common sense needs to prevail.

A standard automotive lead acid battery at 100% charge should measure 12.6 volts. (2.1 volts per cell ) unhooked from the car. While I suppose that if you unhook it immediately after running the car, it might be over 13 volts, I would expect it to settle back down to 12.6 volts.

OK, back to my suggestion... Did you check it with another voltmeter?

 

[3175375]

Well it sounds like the old mechanical ones had current pass through them? If so then 2 people are correct.

Hasn't been said in this thread yet, but amp capacity of an alt doesn't matter, it's the draw of the components hooked up in the car. A 160a alt will only ever produce 30a if that's all the system needs

READ THIS AND ACCEPT IT:

The voltage regulator only has to provide sufficient current to energize the field of the alternator. Why do you think that the alternators are the size they are?

QED

 

[polara71]

Simplified explanation....

All the regulator does is turn the field off and on. All it does... it senses voltage, sees that it's down, switches the field on and then off when it hits the right voltage. No current passes through them. Don't believe me? Look at the small wires going to the field connectors. 65 amps would fry those pretty fast...

Mechanical or electronic regulators do the same job... The electronic ones do it a little better and (in theory) are more reliable because of no moving parts. It's still just turning the field off and on.

The current load is what's important with alternator sizing. You can bolt a 100 amp alternator on a car that has a 35 amp draw and it's not going to fry anything. All you are going to draw is 35 amps and all the alternator is ever going to do is put out 35 amps. Put a giant amplifier or two, and A/C system, fuel pumps etc. and now your are drawing more than 35 amps and your 100 amp alternator is now going to do its job and then you should be increasing wire size etc. Common sense needs to prevail.

A standard automotive lead acid battery at 100% charge should measure 12.6 volts. (2.1 volts per cell ) unhooked from the car. While I suppose that if you unhook it immediately after running the car, it might be over 13 volts, I would expect it to settle back down to 12.6 volts.

OK, back to my suggestion... Did you check it with another voltmeter?

When Big John talks, I listen. He is the EF Hutton of the C body world.

 

[DeathTrap68]

I just ordered in a new one, this is it. Looks to be a solid state, looks identical to the one I already purchased but ill try it out

 

[DeathTrap68]

And yes, made in china. Lol

 

[FURYGT]

I've gone through 3 of those CPS with nothing but problems before I wised up and went with the newer style regulators. I know of others have had problems with them too. I'm not getting into another pissing match about these from people that say otherwise! Do yourself a favor, just upgrade to the new style regulator and be done with it! Good Luck

Stubs, I have never disagreed with you that the "new style" '70 & up voltage regulator is a better part. However not everyone wants to do that upgrade. I don't know who you got your "CPS" voltage regulators from nor do I know why they failed. What I do know is that my friends and myself have had these on our cars for 15 or more years without any problems as do my customers. I also know that I sell several hundred of these per year and the failure rate is around 1% and is usually due to someone putting it in a car with a 100 amp alternator and high draw electrical items. I don't think that Big John or many others on this forum would be using them if they were crap. Please stop implying that the ones that I sell are junk. There is more than one manufacturer of this style voltage regulator. The ones that I sell are made by Regitar, a huge worldwide manufacturer of automotive parts.

 

[stubs300]

Stubs, I have never disagreed with you that the "new style" '70 & up voltage regulator is a better part. Please stop implying that the ones that I sell are junk. There is more than one manufacturer of this style voltage regulator. Please stop implying that the ones that I sell are junk. There is more than one manufacturer of this style voltage regulator. The ones that I sell are made by Regitar, a huge worldwide manufacturer of automotive parts.

I never said you did disagreed with me, I'm talkin about the others, here and on other boards about this subject. I went through 3 different vendors before I gave up, maybe they redesigned these to be more reliable since then? IDK nor do I care at this point, this was in the mid 90's. My point is I've had problems with them and just letting people know my experience's with them. If they have problems with them charging after doing this mod, I rest my case! I will continue to let others know when they ask about my them, I hope this isn't a problem for you, if it is, that's your problem, not mine as I speak from experience! Isn't that what these boards are for???? Show me anywhere in any of my posts where I specifically called you out that yours are junk??? Come on, show me where!
After the crap China pulled on the world, why would anyone buy anything slant eyed from there is beyond me???

 

[stubs300]

The truth hurts, don't it? What do you disagree with??

 

[James Romano]

I just ordered in a new one, this is it. Looks to be a solid state, looks identical to the one I already purchased but ill try it out

View attachment 373201

View attachment 373202

You were bit by the same bug as me... lol. The VR706 part that is listed everywhere as the low profile silver/metal covered VR is no longer available unless you get one on eBay. They replaced it with the black plastic covered Transpo C8010 (which is what you are holding). If you order it from AutoZone, the only place that carries it still... you'll get the plastic cover unit. I have the same plastic unit Transpo C8010 (bought two just in case) and it works fine. The only thing is that is looks like **** if you are going for the OEM look.

I have the other one you mentioned as well, from the guy on eBay. The manufacturer is in China. It looks better and does the same job. Not quite OEM paint finish or embossed letters, but looks a lot better than the plastic cover. If you want it, let me know. I'd be willing to part with it. I tested it and was going to keep it, but I didn't like the look of it as I'm shooting for as close to OEM as possible.

Then I came across an older NOS Transpo C8010 (which is listed as a VR706 as well). That unit looks great is is solid state. Works perfectly.

So I have plenty of spares if you need one. LOL

 

[James Romano]

When Big John talks, I listen. He is the EF Hutton of the C body world.

He's 100% correct and his point is spot on. The wires tell the tale. That's why troubleshooting the VR is easy. Bypass it with 18 gauge wire right to the alternator. If current was passing through that little box it would be a lot bigger and beefier.

 

[DeathTrap68]

Going to attempt to get everything put back together and hopefully fix my issue, going to buy a new DVOM just for the sake of it. Now as far as the ammeter bypass ive seen alot of people saying to run a wire from the Alt to the Starter relay with a fusible link, what gauge wire should I buy?

 

[Big_John]

Going to attempt to get everything put back together and hopefully fix my issue, going to buy a new DVOM just for the sake of it. Now as far as the ammeter bypass ive seen alot of people saying to run a wire from the Alt to the Starter relay with a fusible link, what gauge wire should I buy?

Get it working right first.

Then read this: Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

But get it working correctly before you start adding other variables.

 

[DeathTrap68]

Get it working right first.

Then read this: Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

But get it working correctly before you start adding other variables.

Ill take your word for it, thanks

 

[DeathTrap68]

New voltage regulator, and chassis ground seemed to do the trick! Staying at 13.8 at idle with both headlights and highbeams on. Moral of the story, just because a part is new doesnt mean its good


Thanks to everyone for the input. I really appreciate it

 

[James Romano]

Ill take your word for it, thanks

I just did exactly what you're doing with both my VR and the by-pass

By-pass is easy. Run a 10 gauge wire from the Alt output to the BAT terminal on the starter relay. Add in a 14 gauge fusible link at the starter relay.

That's it. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and you will notice the AMP meter won't show properly anymore. End of fire hazard in bulkhead connector.

 

[DeathTrap68]

I just did exactly what you're doing with both my VR and the by-pass

By-pass is easy. Run a 10 gauge wire from the Alt output to the BAT terminal on the starter relay. Add in a 14 gauge fusible link at the starter relay.

That's it. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and you will notice the AMP meter won't show properly anymore. End of fire hazard in bulkhead connector.

This will be my next step, thanks!