Before folks come down on us for a simple question, we are just starting to learn and I'm teaching my 13 year old to work on the car (I'm not a mechanic). We replaced the alternator on the 69 Newport the other day, no issues driving for 2 days, seems to be charging. Yesterday we got the belt squeal upon start up and acceleration after the car sat for a week. Looks like the alternator slipped down 1-2mm, we lifted and retightened the bolts. Are you guys using lock washers / blue lock tight at all on the lower and upper swing bolts to secure these in place to the swing arm? Anyone using a specific torque number on the bolts? We went with a mopar 1 wire as the mechanic we got the car from recommended it as he had given up chasing the electrical issues for the alternator not charging the battery. Thanks in advance.
Alternator question on a 69 Newport regarding bolts / torque specs
- Thread starter ADDGAMER
- Start date
FSM page 9-30 says:
Mount bolts 30'lbs
Adjuster bolt 12.5'/200"lbs
Realistically though, I'd do just what you did and just snug it up one more time. Mine just has a flat washer. It's tightened at the end of it' adjustment though, any more and I'll get new belts.
Mount bolts 30'lbs
Adjuster bolt 12.5'/200"lbs
Realistically though, I'd do just what you did and just snug it up one more time. Mine just has a flat washer. It's tightened at the end of it' adjustment though, any more and I'll get new belts.
If you don't have one, you can download the factory service manual file at www.mymopar.com .
Remember, too, that when the cars were built, "LocTite" was not around, just mechanical things.
Never had any issues with upgrading the 1-wire to the dual-field alternator used a few years later. As that's all that was available as rebuilds when I did the swaps.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
First, it's fantastic that you are working with your 13 year old son with this. We need more Dads like you.
The absolute best thing to do is buy a Factory Service Manual. Usually you can download one from Service Manuals – MyMopar but they have no '69 Chrysler FSM. You can download a '69 Plymouth version though and that will have things like torque specs that will apply. eBay has used paper copies and my favorite is a cd from 1969 Chrysler CD-ROM Repair Shop Manual Imperial New Yorker 300 Newport Those are great because you can print out a page, mark it all up, get it greasy etc. and just throw it away when done.
I wouldn't use Loctite on the alternator. Too much chance of having a hard time and ruining threads when it has to come off again. Lock washer would be OK, although I've never really seen this problem.
BTW, I'm not a fan of the one wire alternators. The charging system is pretty simple in stock form and works just fine. But it's in there and charging, so that's good.
Here's part of the torque specs from the '69 Plymouth manual. Chrysler would be the same. Note they are in ft/lbs. except as called out in in/lbs.
I actually bought the huge shop manual from 69 for the Newport , New Yorker and Imperial. We went with the 1 wire as the mechanic we bought the car from basically threw in the towell after his 3rd alternator and recommended to just go with the 1 wire instead of chasing the wiring. We will probably replace more wires as time goes on. Will probably just throw a split washer on this weekend. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the belt. We elected to not change the belt as I didn't want to drop the power steering to swap belts out.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Cudos for teaching your son!!!
I had a 1969 Monaco that was one-wire field wiring from the factory. Are you going back to stock from the flat pack voltage regulator (see below)? I had nothing but trouble with 1 wire voltage regulators, but I hear they are better now because of electronic internals rather than mechanical internals.
Love the electronic flat pack voltage regulators, 2-wire system that came out in 1970!!! Mopar brand has been excellent quality for me.
this is an all internal, 1 wire to the battery alternator, ran zero gauge right to the battery. Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
I added the extra ground just because.
I haven't worked on a car this old since the late 90's with my 66 Mustang, even then if something didn't work, go wiggle a wire. I have a 2019 GT350 and you need an engineering degree to do anything with it.... lol
I added the extra ground just because.
I haven't worked on a car this old since the late 90's with my 66 Mustang, even then if something didn't work, go wiggle a wire. I have a 2019 GT350 and you need an engineering degree to do anything with it.... lol
72RoadRunnerGTX
New Member
No circuit protection? You take on a great deal of wire burning/fire risk with that direct wire by-pass.
So are those that are running a 1 wire alternator running a fuse between the positive battery post and the charge wire off the alternator? The instructions didn't mention putting a fuse at the post... like running anything like an amplifier. We went this route as the mechanic gave up chasing wires as he couldn't get the battery to hold a charge.
72RoadRunnerGTX
New Member
If this described by-pass is in place without any other modifications to the remainder of the stock under-dash wiring, it defeats all stock circuit protection in the event of a short in any part of the unfused factory circuits.
I'll give that a watch tonight, thank you. I appreciate the help. The previous owner took the AC compressor out, went to a single V belt pully on the alternator, I think he tried to eliminate as much wiring as possible. The Radio works but the horn doesn't...lol
The only reason, that I know of, where an alternator was running the battery down, would be a defective diode in the alternator. Diodes designed to only keep voltage running "one direction" (to the output side of things).
Other than that, a defective chime module can do the same, but I think that post-dates you car by a good number of model years. But could have also been an electric clock or defective trunk light switch.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Other than that, a defective chime module can do the same, but I think that post-dates you car by a good number of model years. But could have also been an electric clock or defective trunk light switch.
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
There were 2 crusty alternators and the AC unit in the trunk when we took delivery of the car and the boxes on the firewall looked new. Have a feeling this was not a new problem. Some rodent probably chewed something somewhere and they just started to unplug stuff.
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