(Another) 383 2 bbl to 4 bbl conversion thread, anyone got a parts list?

All of the open element aftermarket air cleaners have a "Drop Base" which is one inch less drop than the OEM Chevrolet air cleaners they were patterned after.
 
Wanting to replace what I'm fairly certain is the stock 2 barrel carby on my 67 Phoenix's/Fury's 383, with a 4 barrel one, the 650 cfm AVS2 (#1906) to be specific. I've got a buddy that's happy to sell his old edelbrock performer intake, but is there a list of other small parts I'll need? Will the stock single snorkel air cleaner suffice? Anything regarding the throttle and kickdown linkages? Will I need the throttle lever adapter #1481?

I neglected to get a good pic of the carb or any identifying info, numbers etc. on it before we buttoned it back up, but if it helps, I do know that it's got a thermostatic choke on it and that it's mounted to the stock 383 2 barrel intake (has the chrysler logo cast on it). Appreciate any help on this.
Hi edbods.
I noticed that you’re also in Australia, like me. I am thinking of a similar project for my 72 fury with a 2 bbl. I’m in Sydney.
How did your upgrade go? Any advice.
What state/ city are you in?
 
Hah, small world, am in Sydney too. Haven't actually done it yet - still waiting on some bits to arrive, the carby is here and it's very nice, but waiting on the adapter #1481 to arrive, and also haven't bought the 2186 manifold off my mate yet.
 
Hah, small world, am in Sydney too. Haven't actually done it yet - still waiting on some bits to arrive, the carby is here and it's very nice, but waiting on the adapter #1481 to arrive, and also haven't bought the 2186 manifold off my mate yet.
As I’m starting to learn- any time I decide to do a repair/upgrade or fix on the Fury or New Yorker, it ALWAYS takes much longer than I initially thought it might. And I’m not a perfectionist.
I thought the Fury would be registered by now, after driving her down from theGold Coast. No brakes, no lights, cluster dead and other issues. That was 14 months ago. I’m getting close, but probably another 3 months then blue slip inspection…..
 
it ALWAYS takes much longer than I initially thought it might
Haha, a tale as old as time. At least with older cars it's fairly easy to work on them. Thought it was cool how I could drop the heater box without having to take apart the entire dash. Seems like these cars were made prior to (or avoided) the trend of literally designing the car around the heater core. The only problem was that the core was then in a section that was riveted shut which was really annoying. Thank my lucky stars that it was still intact though, a bit of red coolant actually dribbled out when I tilted the whole thing.
Definitely look into things like the ammeter bypass (if yours has one), the RTE voltage limiter and disc brake conversion kits if you're going to do a bit of mountain or hard driving. The FBO or Hirev ECUs are also pretty neat too, FBO having an adjustable rev limiter although it and the RTE limiter is a bit pricey with shipping. the solid state limiter is for the dash and prevents the gauges getting fried if it ever gets shorted or fails, unlike the stock mechanical one where in a failure mode it just sends full power through the gauges and you kiss them goodbye. I also recently had to replace the connector pins on the back of my gauges with 10mm long #2-56 screws after the originals broke. Works like a charm though, although you could go with longer screws.
If your headlight dimmer switch is similar to the phoenixes, it's worth taking apart and cleaning up corrosion off the contacts too. A headlight wiring harness upgrade is also a very worthwhile upgrade, if you have the tools and time you can buy the wiring and relays yourself and put it all together, or buy a premade one. I got mine from octane lighting in the US, worked out to about 100 bucks total, but absolutely worthwhile, the headlights are way brighter and you no longer have battery power going through the whole harness just for the headlights.
 
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Just an update for anyone following this - I've decided to ditch the Edelbrock 2186 for a Weiand Action Plus 8008. It's actually a chinese copy but it looks and feels just like the OG Weiand one. Actually pretty damn good quality I have to say, and much cheaper too.
Only just found out that the 2186 also has EGR, which I kinda don't want so I decided to go with the 8008. Gonna be a while before I get my hands on the knockoff Weiand intake though.
 
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