BAD !!!! Napa Gold 1515 Oil Filter W.T.F.

[70bigblockdodge]

Only filter I have had leak was a Napa/Wix and that's all I ever use one bad filter does not change things. All the major brands bypass too early to ensure they don't starve the engine for oil dirty oil is better than no oil. Not really a issue for us old car guys that usually change the oil too early anyway.

 

[saforwardlook]

Which one prevents any back flow back into the filter, if any?

Because some of my cars will sit a long time before running them again, I insist on using filters only equipped with anti drain back valves (ADV). This prevents somewhat dry starts where the oil filter has to fill up before the engine gets lubrication. I consistently use the NAPA Gold oil filters that have these valves, and have done so since 2001. But even Fram Tough Guard filters have a silicone ADB valve while the cheaper ones do not (well, the Extra Guard has a nitrile ADV), and I will use them in a pinch too.

NAPA Gold, as noted, is made by Wix, which is a Dana Corporation product and a well known US company over the years that is a long term supplier to the OEM manufacturers.

It is surprising that a Wix filter failed in the situation that created this post, but one bad apple will not change my choice unless I hear of more of them. I have been using them for years.

http://www.wixfilters.com/Resources/article.aspx?NewsID=413

 

[1978 NYB]

Here are some independent filter test results...

http://filtrationcomparisons.weebly.com/test-pictures-and-results.html

 

[odcics2]

Wix and Purolator are the OEM makers for MoPar filters, to higher specs, of course.

 

[bluefury361]

Probably the worse, bar non, oil filter is the Amsoil. You may get away with using them on a new or very clean engine, but their filter element material is to fine to use on an older, neglected engine. They will clog quickly and starve an engines oil flow.

A friend fell for the pitch, became a dealer, (for a good investment). He installed amsoil and a filter on his old Lincoln and within a couple of days the rod bearings started rattling...... Upon inspection the filter was almost totally clogged.

 

[polara71]

Thank You Steve..... I remember the study that was out years ago. At that time Fram had no such filter

 

[tbm3fan]

Obviously I use Motorcraft on all the Fords religiously. For the Dodge and Mazda I use Pure One as they are easier to find for those applications. Both Motorcraft and Pure One are the same. The only difference is the shape of the inlet holes.

Those filters always seem to have a higher filter surface area than others. Some say because the pleats are packed tightly there could be flow issues when the filter gets dirty. Well not an issue for me since I change once a year and the miles are under 3000. Next there is the efficiency of the filter in trapping different particle sizes. Human hair is at 60-70 microns while filters have to at least trap a 40 micron particle or 0.00157 inch. Can't find rates for all the filters out there but I know the two I use are at 99.7% efficiency.

So in our old cars probably any good filter will work provided it is well built since we change oil before it is dirty. For our daily drivers, where some push the OCI, then you may have to balance filtration efficiency against a dirty filter now allowing unfiltered oil through the bypass valve into the main gallery. My two daily drivers get their oil changed at 5000 miles max and have Motorcraft filters. My benchmark are the cylinder heads I removed from my Cougar after 100,000 miles for a performance set. Motorcraft filters and 3000 mile OCI with older oils and the top of the heads were so clean you could eat off them after the residual oil was rinsed off. Compare that to the Polara when I first removed the valve covers and saw the carbon build up...yikes. That alone would make me want to check compression and pull a valve cover when buying a used older car.

 

[patrick66]

Like "what oil to use", people have preferences with filters.

 

[BigCRig]

CHANGED oil on my 66 NewPort, last Sunday. and screwed on a NAPA 1515, and couldn't get OIL PRESSURE!Tried 3 times... Went with 20/50 instead of 10/40 Castrol added a bottle of Rislone,engine oil supplement, and 5 qts. of oil. Idled and nothing took off the NAPA, P.O.S., and went to the zone, [close], and got a MOBIL 1, screwed it on and 50 p.s.i. oil pressure, saturated both filter elements before install, plan to take it back to N.A.P.A. tomorrow, in the NewPort, tomorrow,this is the car your premium filter TRIED TO KILL... at the very least get my money back WITHOUT MY RECEIPT. ANY SUGGESSTIONS????

took filter back to napa and the counter man thought it was a bad drain back valve, which is a good possibility, blew air into the filter, [center hole], and seemed to be quite a bit of resistance, don't know never blew on one before! got my 7.dollars, and some change, and said he would send it back but would have to go through numerous hand changing, starts, stops, and may not even make it back to wix, and said that if it did that they wouldn't even cut it open and diagnose... just toss, been nice to see what failed, wasn't worried bout the $7 guess I should of kept and cut the damn thing open myself, but just wanted to put it all behind me. was a traumatic experience...

 

[polara71]

I think I would have swallowed the 7 dollars and cut it open. I would have needed to know for my own knowledge

 

[odcics2]

Like "what oil to use", people have preferences with filters.

For Mopars, there is an MS spec on the back of the oil container. Just sayin', better to use an oil that meets that spec, than not. I use the correct grade Pennzoil in everything. ccasion14: