Ballast resistors

70NPORT

Old Man with a Hat
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How to ID these old ballast resistors? The top one has "2.0 W", and "1.25 ohms" printed on the side, the middle one has "3658199" stamped onto the front (part no. ?). The bottom has absolutely nothing stamped or printed on it whatsoever.

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IMG_3925.jpg
 
either one will work form what i remember. the double one I remember installing onto customers' cars so they would have a built in back up for the single style resistors when it failed out on the road.

When the first one burnt out they simply unplugged and then plugged it into the open connectors and they were on their way!
 
either one will work form what i remember. the double one I remember installing onto customers' cars so they would have a built in back up for the single style resistors when it failed out on the road.

When the first one burnt out they simply unplugged and then plugged it into the open connectors and they were on their way!


That is a good one, I have never heard that before. The double one was needed for factory electronic ignition. The second side one was for the ignition module and the other for the coil. The newer ignition modules are internally regulated.


Alan
 
The top one is a standard part number RU11 and the bottom one is an RU19. Both have the same values but the bottom has the metal strap and a cover over the back.
 
Here's the thing. My Blaster II ignition coil (MSD) has evidently retired "itself". I had suspicions about weak spark so I got the Blaster II coil specs from the MSD web site and compared those to what I was getting with my multimeter. I checked primary and secondary resistance numbers and they were both off...considerably....so now I'm looking for a new coil. Suggestions? Also, I still have a BR wired in. I've read that the BR was not needed with the electronic ign setup, but have also read that it is still required to keep the coil from burning up. In fact, when I bought the MP electronic ign upgrade package it came with a brand new BR. I've been running the BR with the electronic ign all this time with no noticeable problems. Apparently it needs to be there because if not the car will not run. One of the clips came off the BR one day and the car would not start until it was put back on. So which is it?
 
You have to run the BR with factory electronic ignition. If you converted from points to a Pertronix they do not need the BR. MSD systems do not need the BR. All factory ignition systms from Mopar and Ford require a BR or resistance wire or you will burn up coils and modules. Honestly I always use MSD coils. I have about 3 of them in the bottom drawer of my tool box from an old job I had where the owner insisted on replacing everyone when we made changes.
 
Yeah I've always used MSD coils except for once. The one time exception was an Accel Super Coil.
 
I simple way to know if you need a ballast on your factory style ignition module.
If it has 5 pins yes, 4 pins no (module, not the connector).
The Mopar Performance ones sold do not need the ballast resistor for the ignition module.

A ballast is still needed for a factory coil, other coils I have no idea about.


Alan
 
If you measure for continuity to ground on the 5th pin of the module (usually red/green) I believe and see if it isn't just a dummy terminal in the box but you would have to have the BR unless you have a coil that specifically is labeled on the side of the coil "not for use with external resistor" like were on some fords.
 
I've first started thinking about weak spark when I found the electrode side on #3 plug was wet with gas. I realize a weak coil does not pick one specific cylinder to under power. So when I noticed the gas all sorts of thoughts went flying thru my mind, the most nagging one was bad or damaged head gasket. However, there are no other indications of that which I can tell. No gas or oil leaking into the engine coolant, dipstick comes out nice and clean (with oil), no blue/white smoke out of the tail pipe whether at idle or under load, no over heating problems...nothing that usually says "blown head gasket". It will idle after warming up as if there were a dead cylinder or miss but at speed on the highway it runs smoothly with good acceleration. I'm going to do a compression test shortly to cover all bases but based on what is happening I'm not expecting low/or no compression in that cylinder. I've done that before with a 440 and it ran like serious crap at idle and/or under load. Burnt antifreeze smoke everywhere, blah blah. You could definitely tell it was not a happy motor. So anyways I'm left trying to figure out why gas is not being burned in that cylinder.
 
Gm has a resistor wire built into harness for their old style coils non hei. I have always had good luck with accel super stock coils.
 
I've first started thinking about weak spark when I found the electrode side on #3 plug was wet with gas. I realize a weak coil does not pick one specific cylinder to under power. So when I noticed the gas all sorts of thoughts went flying thru my mind, the most nagging one was bad or damaged head gasket. However, there are no other indications of that which I can tell. No gas or oil leaking into the engine coolant, dipstick comes out nice and clean (with oil), no blue/white smoke out of the tail pipe whether at idle or under load, no over heating problems...nothing that usually says "blown head gasket". It will idle after warming up as if there were a dead cylinder or miss but at speed on the highway it runs smoothly with good acceleration. I'm going to do a compression test shortly to cover all bases but based on what is happening I'm not expecting low/or no compression in that cylinder. I've done that before with a 440 and it ran like serious crap at idle and/or under load. Burnt antifreeze smoke everywhere, blah blah. You could definitely tell it was not a happy motor. So anyways I'm left trying to figure out why gas is not being burned in that cylinder.

That could be a bad valve somwhere. Had a car doing this before and it was a burnt exhaust valve...
 
Gary what values did you find for the msd coil I have the same one and have been suspecting it for a while now, now I am having starting issues.
 
Pertronix Flamethrower is what I'm using on both my drivers and I'm pleased with the performance.
 
Yea I couldn't believe how simple the Petronics setup was AFTER I had already bought/installed the mopar elec ign kit.
 
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