Big Block Thermometer Temperature ?

[Ghostultramarine]

What is the best temperature for a thermometer for a 1968 383 - basically stock?

I want to replace mine (no idea how old the current one is), just to be on the safe side of things.

 

[HWYCRZR]

180 degree thermostat

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Thank you.

Does anyone know why 160 and 195 are not? (and the applications they would be used for)

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

In some cases it can be dependent upon where the car is to live. Warmer climates as opposed to cooler climates can warrant a thermostat change, but generally it's based upon the "best case - best suited to design" parameters.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Here is a decent explanation.
Should I run a colder thermostat?

 

[Toolmanmike]

I use 180° stats and have changed to 160° for a heating issue. I ALWAYS test my thermostats in a pan on the stove with a known good thermometer before installing. Many new ones are bad right out of the box.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

I use 180° stats and have changed to 160° for a heating issue. I ALWAYS test my thermostats in a pan on the stove with a known good thermometer before installing. Many new ones are bad right out of the box.

I do the same but with a temperature gauge in the water to see at what temperature it opened.

I've also been reading this thread:
Thermostat Help

 

[CBODY67]

The 195 degree F thermostats came in with the "reduced emissions" era of about 1969. No other real reason for their existence.

160 degree F thermostats were used on some middle-1950s cars (1955 Buick V-8s spec'd that temp from the factory, IIRC) AND their temp gauges were calibrated for the middle of the operating band to reflect that temp. Some OEM cooling system designs seemed to need a bit more help by opening the thermostat a bit sooner than 180 degrees F. Those old Buick Nailheads had a higher nickel content in their cast iron, block and heads, so cyl wall wear at 160 degrees F would probably be less of an issue.

According to Edelbrock (in the middle 1970s), 180 degrees F is where the optimum engine temp for decreased cylinder wall wear begins. 160 degrees F is down where more wear can happen, but it would seem that this might be more critical with the type of motor oils we had bach then than what we have now.

IF the 160 degree F thermostat might result in more power, allegedly, then all of the hot rod engines of the middle 1960s would have had one. They didn't. They all had 180 degree F thermostats, as I recall, until they all got the emissions era 195s from 1969 onward.

By observation, a thermostat is a flow restrictor more than anything else. One which is variable depending upon engine temps. Might somebody feel the need to deviate from OEM factory specs (180) to something cooler, I suspect their cooling system might have some issues that need to be looked at.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Toolmanmike]

The 195 degree F thermostats came in with the "reduced emissions" era of about 1969. No other real reason for their existence.

160 degree F thermostats were used on some middle-1950s cars (1955 Buick V-8s spec'd that temp from the factory, IIRC) AND their temp gauges were calibrated for the middle of the operating band to reflect that temp. Some OEM cooling system designs seemed to need a bit more help by opening the thermostat a bit sooner than 180 degrees F. Those old Buick Nailheads had a higher nickel content in their cast iron, block and heads, so cyl wall wear at 160 degrees F would probably be less of an issue.

According to Edelbrock (in the middle 1970s), 180 degrees F is where the optimum engine temp for decreased cylinder wall wear begins. 160 degrees F is down where more wear can happen, but it would seem that this might be more critical with the type of motor oils we had bach then than what we have now.

IF the 160 degree F thermostat might result in more power, allegedly, then all of the hot rod engines of the middle 1960s would have had one. They didn't. They all had 180 degree F thermostats, as I recall, until they all got the emissions era 195s from 1969 onward.

By observation, a thermostat is a flow restrictor more than anything else. One which is variable depending upon engine temps. Might somebody feel the need to deviate from OEM factory specs (180) to something cooler, I suspect their cooling system might have some issues that need to be looked at.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Well said. Mopars had high nickle blocks as well. Probably as much as Cadillac, Olds, and Buick back in the day. 100,000 miles on the clock and very little ridge or taper.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

Thanks for the info. I’ll get a 180.

 

[BigblueC]

Thanks for the info. I’ll get a 180.

You're probably already aware, but this is a great time to flush the system and replace rubber hoses as well.

 

[Ripinator]

You're probably already aware, but this is a great time to flush the system and replace rubber hoses as well.

Yes. Also throw a bottle of rust inhibitor in there as well.

 

[The Goose]

If you want to use something that crushes scale but is non caustic you can try powdered Casdade dishwasher detergent. That’s what we use on radiators at our CAT dealership. Some flush aides will go after your hoses. This just cleans.

 

[Turboomni]

Is there a good place that I can order up all new hoses for my 69 Fury? Or is it a matter of removing and matching at the auto parts store???

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I ordered all mine through Rock Auto.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Rock Auto is great for rubber stuff, but both Stant and Gates thermostats have left a lot to be desired. I got my first Robert Shaw clone (a Mr. Gasket stat, 180F) and by golly that cooling system now hugs 180F MOST consistently! Mind y'all, things still be warmin up down here, and afternoons in traffic have pushed the coolant temperature up to about 197F so far, but I haven't finished the new shroud yet.

Still, I say spending a few extra $ on a GOOD thermostat might just save you 100x the investment. I'll NEVER run cheap, stamped steel thermostats in my B blocks again!