polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Two corners but I'd like to get the rear off the ground too.
Those that suggest a problem with the rear, she rolls quiet and smooth....
Boom
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Those that suggest a problem with the rear, she rolls quiet and smooth....
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Long extensions, actually called transmission extensions that way you can work at rear not hanging over the fender against the firewall.
I would definitely be looking at the rearend, that is a lot of force to snap that shaft that clean.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Really? Wouldnt I have felt a sudden jolt or a nose dive? Wouldnt I be hearing noises as she gets pushed around or when she rolled up and down the roll backs?
One little broken gear tooth can stop something pretty fast. The blowing apart of components could have knocked it loose immediately. May be worth your time to at least suck some fluid out of the diff, or try to fish a magnet through the check plug and fish around and see if you pick anything up. If your diff oil is clean without metal particles you may be able to rule it out. If particles are found...... take the diff out and check.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
From what I see in the pic's a good trans man should be able to get you up and going soon. Tail shaft housing, tail shaft, governor, seals, gaskets, fluid and your back in business.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Thats what Im thinking/hoping. Now, do I pull the trans out of the other one, install the Gear Vendors unit and use the shaft on this trans? I gotta get this one checked out first
I think you should do this, because I want to hear your review on the Gear Vendors unit.
You still have to find out what happen to this one.
twostick
Senior Member
The GV unit keeps the stock output shaft.
If I was doing a GV I would find a short shaft 727 out of a truck and use their Shorty Kit. It shortens up the overall length of the combined unit by 8 or 10 inches IIRC. Then you will have a spare output shaft and parts for your broken one. Hopefully it didn't tear the sprag out and ruin your case. Check the case carefully for cracks when you tear it down. That thing did not come apart gently.
You didn't recently replace the motor mounts did you? Had a buddy with a 64 B-body that had a tailhousing break just behind the flange from a bad drive line angle caused by new mounts mixed with an original 40 year old sagged trans mount.
What does the rear U-joint look like? Grease in all the cups or evidence of it around whatever is left of the joint?
The pic shows what's left of the output shaft still hanging in the busted housing so it seems a little odd that the drive shaft left unless the joint broke and let it trail out.
Kevin
If I was doing a GV I would find a short shaft 727 out of a truck and use their Shorty Kit. It shortens up the overall length of the combined unit by 8 or 10 inches IIRC. Then you will have a spare output shaft and parts for your broken one. Hopefully it didn't tear the sprag out and ruin your case. Check the case carefully for cracks when you tear it down. That thing did not come apart gently.
You didn't recently replace the motor mounts did you? Had a buddy with a 64 B-body that had a tailhousing break just behind the flange from a bad drive line angle caused by new mounts mixed with an original 40 year old sagged trans mount.
What does the rear U-joint look like? Grease in all the cups or evidence of it around whatever is left of the joint?
The pic shows what's left of the output shaft still hanging in the busted housing so it seems a little odd that the drive shaft left unless the joint broke and let it trail out.
Kevin
Damn Dave, I've never seen a 727 come apart like that, and I've beaten the hell out of a few of them. I'm glad you guys came out unscathed, but I would like it if you would take a little better care of my car.
Good luck on figuring out the cause.
Good luck on figuring out the cause.
I have a guess... the break appears to have a lot of dark metal... this could be the lighting, but if it really is dark it may indicate you had a serious crack for sometime. The brighter metal would be the portion that gave up over the weekend.
If the shaft was hairline cracked, you would have had no way to know anything was in trouble. Oil entering the crack over time would darken the metal until you eventually got the last driveline jolt that cause it to let go. If I'm right, there was nothing you could have done to know any of this was coming, and the original crack may have been there for decades before the metal fatigue caught up with it.
Once the long piece of tail shaft was spinning unsupported, I think it's obvious that is what did so much damage...
I tend to agree with others here, it would be wise to check the differential after all of this... but I don't have a guess whether or not it was a part of the cause. Unless you find someone with a stock pile of 727 parts, I imagine you will be using a core to mix with this case if keeping the original matters that much... but I would be very careful inspecting the case for internal (hidden) damage.
Sorry you're dealing with this. Glad no one was hurt.
If the shaft was hairline cracked, you would have had no way to know anything was in trouble. Oil entering the crack over time would darken the metal until you eventually got the last driveline jolt that cause it to let go. If I'm right, there was nothing you could have done to know any of this was coming, and the original crack may have been there for decades before the metal fatigue caught up with it.
Once the long piece of tail shaft was spinning unsupported, I think it's obvious that is what did so much damage...
I tend to agree with others here, it would be wise to check the differential after all of this... but I don't have a guess whether or not it was a part of the cause. Unless you find someone with a stock pile of 727 parts, I imagine you will be using a core to mix with this case if keeping the original matters that much... but I would be very careful inspecting the case for internal (hidden) damage.
Sorry you're dealing with this. Glad no one was hurt.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I hadn't replaced the engine mounts though they were probably replaced when the engine was rebuilt several years ago.
I don't know where the front U joint is, that and other parts are missing. The back U is still bolted on
I don't know where the front U joint is, that and other parts are missing. The back U is still bolted on
I was thinking that it might have broken as you said. It's supported by a ball bearing just a few inches behind the governor so it would still be supported.
But... That makes me wonder if the housing was cracked or broken and the shaft has been flexing for a while. The housing breaks... it flexes the shaft... the shaft breaks and then all hell breaks loose.
I'm really not thinking that the rear end broke and caused this issue. It is worth checking out to eliminate any possibility and additional damage.
It still just bothers me that the driveshaft broke off at the rear u-joint.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
I'm glad the rear U broke off things could have been different if it hadn't.
I'm sure it was moving in directions that it wasn't meant to do.
I'm sure it was moving in directions that it wasn't meant to do.
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I'm going to send this thead over to a friend that I consider to be a guru and see what he has to say about it.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I had a tooth come off the ring gear on my big truck rearend (I did not know what it was making noise) it only made noise on a pull or with the engine brake coasting along or just pedaling you could maybe feel it in the gearshift. So yeah I would check rearend, if you have not changed the lube in many years it's a goo time for it. If changed recently the magnet through the fill hole will tell you right away.
FYI my buddy who is a Mopar mechanic said check the rear end. He has never seen a 727 go like that in which the rear end wasn't the issue. He said just because it spins/ rolls means nothing. He has seen them free up after locking up.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Well, that would suck
This whole issue has been bugging me since it came up - your explanation is the only one that makes really good sense to me. Good sleuthing!
Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
I didn't click this thread since I thought it would be about obnoxious car audio.
But I'm glad to see you're alright Dave and car damage was contained. Lest anyone say this is an old-tymey car issue, just point them over here:
Ford Transit recalled: Drive shaft defect costs $142 million
But I'm glad to see you're alright Dave and car damage was contained. Lest anyone say this is an old-tymey car issue, just point them over here:
Ford Transit recalled: Drive shaft defect costs $142 million
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
Originality does mean something to me . All three cars are numbers matching. This one is the nicest one so I'm hoping the front half can still be used.
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