Brake light stop switch location- Please Help.

Captainfury

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My 72 Fury is undergoing a minor restoration so I can drive her on the road again which will be so so exciting. I took the bumper bar off, cleaned everything up, did a new paint job, reworked lights, fixed bulb holders etc etc.
Al that’s left is to put the brake light stop switch back in. Many have commented on the difficulty of this and I see what they mean. The FSM has some useful pictures but doesn’t actually show precise holes to use. I know it goes between the two outer steel plates, but bolting into a hole and having the adjustment lug fit into a groove is where I’m stuck. I have included photos, and if anybody is familiar with this I would be forever grateful for knowledge about which holes are appropriate.
I’m using the original NOS Chrysler switch as I can see that it originally went up agains the bracket from the mild corrosion present. That allows the speed control to be used when I overhaul the speed control unit down the track. Any feedback is so very much appreciated.
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It goes in these two slots. The bolt goes in the top one and the tab goes in the other. I can try to get a picture of it install.

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Thanks Monc440.
So the bolt doesn’t go into a circular hole, but rather an elongated slot??
Strange, but if that’s the case, and I trust what you say, I’ll give it a go. Your help and knowledge is so valuable. Really makes me happy knowing that I can try it once the sun comes up/ it’s pitch black in Sydney as I write this.
I’m also restoring a 1971 New Yorker with the good old 440 RB motor. It runs, and has been on a hoist at the local mechanics shop for last 5 months. So far I’ve put a new radiator, carby, shocks, tank, calipers and pads, drum brakes and tyres on it. But there’s plenty more to do.
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Found another.
This has the HD switch but it mounts the same.
Both of these are 69s, should be the same.
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Alan
 
Sorry I don't have a better picture.

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Alan
Thanks Alan
You are so kind and helpful.
Once I’ve completed some Olympic acrobatics this morning by wriggling under and into the footwell to gain access to install the switch, and then extracating myself from the awkward position, I will be so pleased.
The restored bumper bar will be able to go back onto the Fury 400 hardtop and then it’s time for the inspection so she can get registered annd impress people on the road. After 2 years of working on her it will be absolutely sensational.
 
Found another.
This has the HD switch but it mounts the same.
Both of these are 69s, should be the same.
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Alan
Also Alan, obviously you have taken the entire brake holding bracket/housing out of the vehicle. Are the advantages of placing the stop light switch much greater this way than trying to mount the switch with the brake housing/assembly left in the car?
Because I’m sure you know that inserting the switch with the entire brake housing in the footwell is a feat requiring 4 hands and superhuman patience !!!
 
Here is a picture of mine in the car. Sorry the bolt is in the lower slot and the tab is in the upper slot. The bolt is circled in red and the tab in blue. Hope this helps. My switch is aftermarket so it looks different.

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Alan, my friend, you have made a very happy and grateful person in the “ C body” Mopar community. At one point a fewd I was on the verge of cutting off the damn tab.
You’re a legend mate and I will always remember your help. W
If you ever come to Sydney, send me a txt and I’ll buy you lunch or dinner and we can enjoy a few beers!!
 
The only reason the assembly was out of the car is that the car was a total teardown.


Alan
 
The only reason the assembly was out of the car is that the car was a total teardown.
Makes sense. For a moment I thought of removing the entire assembly. However after looking at what was going to be required and the corresponding access difficulties, it quickly went into the “no thank you” drawer.
 
Hello again Alan, or other members with information on this subject.
I have spent hours doing gymnastics with my hands to get the bracket installed.
Additionally I have an original NOS brake light stop switch and another one that seems to be used quite often, as per photos.
My main query is how does the original Mopar switch stay in place?
One end has the spring plunger against the brake pedal plunger, and if then seems to just go through the hole in the mounting plate, but it’s not a tight fit. What stops the stop light/speed control switch from simply falling down? Somebody will have done this before I should think.obviously the first pic is an original switch( is it missing anything?). The 2nd pic is the common stop switch many owners use, but has no ability to connect to the constant speed wires.
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Hello again Alan, or other members with information on this subject.
I have spent hours doing gymnastics with my hands to get the bracket installed.
Additionally I have an original NOS brake light stop switch and another one that seems to be used quite often, as per photos.
My main query is how does the original Mopar switch stay in place?
One end has the spring plunger against the brake pedal plunger, and if then seems to just go through the hole in the mounting plate, but it’s not a tight fit. What stops the stop light/speed control switch from simply falling down? Somebody will have done this before I should think.obviously the first pic is an original switch( is it missing anything?). The 2nd pic is the common stop switch many owners use, but has no ability to connect to the constant speed wires.

Capitan mon Capitan,

I feel your pain, and have a Modest Proposal for you:

If you just want an easy to install brake light switch, do as I do, and get a good quality hydraulic switch which you can feed off the front brake line out of your master cylinder. I adopted this approach after my first year with our now destroyed 1966 Newport, and carry on with it for our '68. A good switch lasts with clean brake fluid, and responds nicely too. JEGS has one with their house brand, made in the U.S. that does well.

Of course, if you're trying to RESTORE to OEM specs, this method won't do, but if you want an easy to install brake light switch, this works, getting the wiring away from your feet.
 
Capitan mon Capitan,

I feel your pain, and have a Modest Proposal for you:

If you just want an easy to install brake light switch, do as I do, and get a good quality hydraulic switch which you can feed off the front brake line out of your master cylinder. I adopted this approach after my first year with our now destroyed 1966 Newport, and carry on with it for our '68. A good switch lasts with clean brake fluid, and responds nicely too. JEGS has one with their house brand, made in the U.S. that does well.

Of course, if you're trying to RESTORE to OEM specs, this method won't do, but if you want an easy to install brake light switch, this works, getting the wiring away from your feet.
Gerald- your advice is very welcome, along with the poetic intro-love it!!

I have now about to pick up a NOS switch with thread from the post office. I am now learned in the ways e.of these devices, which may come in useful for the 1971 New Yorker I also bought at the time of my Fury purchase. I often feel as if I’ve taken on more work than I can deal with, but the two cars will keep me engaged for the rest of my life. Fury is staying all totally original, while New Yorker can take on modifications. I added some pics of my 2 c bodies for your perusal. These photos were taken at purchase time. I have been upgrading them both since then. I’m hoping the Fury will be on the road soon, but it always seems to take longer than expected.
Kirk
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Gerald- your advice is very welcome, along with the poetic intro-love it!!

I have now about to pick up a NOS switch with thread from the post office. I am now learned in the ways e.of these devices, which may come in useful for the 1971 New Yorker I also bought at the time of my Fury purchase. I often feel as if I’ve taken on more work than I can deal with, but the two cars will keep me engaged for the rest of my life. Fury is staying all totally original, while New Yorker can take on modifications. I added some pics of my 2 c bodies for your perusal. These photos were taken at purchase time. I have been upgrading them both since then. I’m hoping the Fury will be on the road soon, but it always seems to take longer than expected.
Kirk

Right on Kirk!

Use my method on the NYer then. The old push-button momentary contact switches all rely on some little spot-welded ring mount which the switch is stuck through, held in place by spring clips or a nut and thread arrangement. Being plenty agile enough to stand on my head for prolonged periods of pointless, futile activity, I soon realized that once the old mounting ring was worn by use over decades, keeping the damned button aligned with the brake pedal arm would remain problematic at best. I certainly tried for several months with new, NOS and junkyard components. NONE of the aforementioned proved sufficiently reliable for my liking. Then, I copped my first hydraulic switch; one of those "Painless" things, which worked for 6 months. The ease of installation vastly outweighed the short lifetime; I knew I could, and since HAVE obtained good quality hydraulic brake light switches.

The ONE objection worth considering about these is the relative latency of circuit closure from brake line pressure. Get a GOOD quality, low latency switch if you go this route. I have been and remain happy with mine.
 
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After reading about your extensive experiences with these tricky little switches, I think I will take your advice Gerald and go with a hydraulic switch sooner rather than later. I too am very much “ over” the endless hours, upside down, trying to prevent further back and neck pain, laying on pillows in the footwell, my legs sticking out of the car at awkward angles with family looking on at times, wondering what on earth I’m doing. It’s a job for a 25 year old version of myself….
The New Yorker is presently at the mechanic, having new brakes, new tank, new radiator and associated lines done. I’m looking forward to getting it back, but scared of seeing the bill I’m presented with. However it’s only the beginning of a long road ahead for the Yorker, as the engine bay is a mess. She runs but only just.

However I live knowing that had I not rescued these beautiful old girls from their previous owner and the way they were out in the elements decaying, they would’ve ended up as recycling. Now, they can live on for many, many more years. Given my son’s interest in all things automotive I think their futures are safe. Have a great day from Down Under, Sydney.
 
After reading about your extensive experiences with these tricky little switches, I think I will take your advice Gerald and go with a hydraulic switch sooner rather than later. I too am very much “ over” the endless hours, upside down, trying to prevent further back and neck pain, laying on pillows in the footwell, my legs sticking out of the car at awkward angles with family looking on at times, wondering what on earth I’m doing. It’s a job for a 25 year old version of myself….
The New Yorker is presently at the mechanic, having new brakes, new tank, new radiator and associated lines done. I’m looking forward to getting it back, but scared of seeing the bill I’m presented with. However it’s only the beginning of a long road ahead for the Yorker, as the engine bay is a mess. She runs but only just.

However I live knowing that had I not rescued these beautiful old girls from their previous owner and the way they were out in the elements decaying, they would’ve ended up as recycling. Now, they can live on for many, many more years. Given my son’s interest in all things automotive I think their futures are safe. Have a great day from Down Under, Sydney.

Good on you! Pity I can't just walk across the Big Pond between us to help you get those old Mopars running.
 
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