68plymouth383
Senior Member
I would just pull the hub caps and address the brake problems........... Or find a set of dog dish caps. They won't rotate.........
Brakes shudder, 1966 New Yorker. Also: spinning hubcaps.
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Silverick
New Member
The drums need to be resurfaced and this will fix the shuddering.
Make sure that you watch the guy that resurfaces them and make sure that you tell him to be easy with the drums as to only cut as little material as possible....
My wheelcovers used to spin also.... It's just the way that it is!! lol
Make sure that you watch the guy that resurfaces them and make sure that you tell him to be easy with the drums as to only cut as little material as possible....
My wheelcovers used to spin also.... It's just the way that it is!! lol
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
I'm guessing there is no gear lube leaking onto the rear shoes ..... that would be obvious.
Verify that the primary and secondary shoes are installed correctly, espically from side to side.
The original wheels were designed for use with bias tires and are much lighter then the later steel wheels. Radial tires put more load on the wheels causing a flex condition which effects the wheel covers. The lock tabs on the wheel covers should be "tweeked" everytime the are removed and reinstalled. This will usually eliminate the "rotating" condition and reduce the risk of a cover poping off.
Verify that the primary and secondary shoes are installed correctly, espically from side to side.
The original wheels were designed for use with bias tires and are much lighter then the later steel wheels. Radial tires put more load on the wheels causing a flex condition which effects the wheel covers. The lock tabs on the wheel covers should be "tweeked" everytime the are removed and reinstalled. This will usually eliminate the "rotating" condition and reduce the risk of a cover poping off.
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
Stew, did you get the door panels I sent you?
greasemonkeyman
Well-Known Member
I agree,just pull out the tabs on your hubcaps out slightly.After so many times of removal and installation the tabs seem to be bent inward and don't tend to hold tightly against the rim,which is why it's spinning.Another thing not mentioned,are you running the correct rims.I've sometimes found that rims from different manufacturers won't hold the hubcap on as tightly as the factory rim they were made to go with.Just worth a check.
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
Also, sharpen the teeth a little.
Silverick
New Member
I don't mean to act like a know it all but, my first '68 Fury was my parent's car and I remember when the car came home brand new...
I bought it from my dad in the early 70's, with bias ply tires.
Anyways, the wheel covers would spin on the wheel, with a bias ply or a radial tire, and did this since the car was brand new. ..
I bought it from my dad in the early 70's, with bias ply tires.
Anyways, the wheel covers would spin on the wheel, with a bias ply or a radial tire, and did this since the car was brand new. ..
KcImperial
Active Member
Wheel flex will cause hubcaps to rotate or come off. Radials tires should have a stronger wheel than what bias-ply cars came with. If adjusting the tabs on the hubcap doesn't help, you may need later model wheels that were designed for radial tires.
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Of course, if you just bought the shoes -- they are of this new friction material -- which as we all
know, quite frankly is "garbage".... to ripping and gribbing and grabbing -- and ruining drums -- when you go to stop.... I have just unearthed (last week... on the way to Carlisle -- I was OUT!!)
some Chrysler Products 11" x 3" Front +++ ASBESTOS +++ Shoes!!!!!!
Those, clearly, make life far more safe, efficient, and pain-free....
know, quite frankly is "garbage".... to ripping and gribbing and grabbing -- and ruining drums -- when you go to stop.... I have just unearthed (last week... on the way to Carlisle -- I was OUT!!)
some Chrysler Products 11" x 3" Front +++ ASBESTOS +++ Shoes!!!!!!
Those, clearly, make life far more safe, efficient, and pain-free....
T. Aguryte
New Member
Just a thought and a 'what if' here... I used to have a '57 DeSoto Sportsman -- huge car -- and also wtih torsion bar suspension. IF the air in either of the front tires was lower than the other, (I don't know by how much), the whole car would shake if the brakes were used -- same symptoms you described.
EurekaSevven
Active Member
This thread's ancient and the member you quoted hasn't been here since 2015...I appreciate the thoughtfulness in the advice, but I don't know why you chose this thread in particular to post in.
That said...
According to my 1968 FSM, a 'pulsating pedal' (such as what he seemed to describe by feeling it in the pedal), and chirping brakes are indicative of a bent or out of round brake drum. Since he mentioned those parts were all replaced though, inclined to believe it was something alignment or suspension related. My Newport's brakes are a bit touchy but the car doesn't shake like that - Although mine seems to have a replacement master cylinder from a disc brake setup from the older days, so the power to the front brakes is probably far stronger than those to the back (not probably, actually, the rear circuit has no fluid in it, so probably need to get some DOT4 and fill it up and pump it until I get good pressure)...
That said...
According to my 1968 FSM, a 'pulsating pedal' (such as what he seemed to describe by feeling it in the pedal), and chirping brakes are indicative of a bent or out of round brake drum. Since he mentioned those parts were all replaced though, inclined to believe it was something alignment or suspension related. My Newport's brakes are a bit touchy but the car doesn't shake like that - Although mine seems to have a replacement master cylinder from a disc brake setup from the older days, so the power to the front brakes is probably far stronger than those to the back (not probably, actually, the rear circuit has no fluid in it, so probably need to get some DOT4 and fill it up and pump it until I get good pressure)...
USSMOPAR
Active Member
Proper assembly techniques dictate when the drums are turned the shoes must be arced to fit the radius of the drum for full shoe contact. That requires a shoe arcing machine and the required measurement tools
The front wheel bearings need to be set the modern way not the 1970's caveman way. Using a beam type inch pound torque wrench set the bearing torque to 90-120 inch pounds while rotating the drum/hub. This is after seating the bearing at 20 ft lbs while spinning the drum/hub.
As for the old wives tale from the old curmudgeons about asbestos vs carbon metallic or rare as hens teeth now velvetouch linings being far less superior to asbestos...that is very bad information and contrary to the reality of using the modern friction materials. Tech note: Call the brake relining companies and argue with them not me!
The front wheel bearings need to be set the modern way not the 1970's caveman way. Using a beam type inch pound torque wrench set the bearing torque to 90-120 inch pounds while rotating the drum/hub. This is after seating the bearing at 20 ft lbs while spinning the drum/hub.
As for the old wives tale from the old curmudgeons about asbestos vs carbon metallic or rare as hens teeth now velvetouch linings being far less superior to asbestos...that is very bad information and contrary to the reality of using the modern friction materials. Tech note: Call the brake relining companies and argue with them not me!
I had an issue like this with drum brakes once, and it turned out to be some debris between the drum and the axle plate. That caused the drum not sit square and to be just a bit wobbly, and boy, that really caused it to shake and shudder. Cleaned it up and it was fine. Something to look at anyway . . .
Do you have the old parts? Perhaps you can throw the rear drums back on as a test (as they are easier to swap) then do the fronts if need be. Is the steering wheel shaking as well?
One thing I have learned in working on these cars (and on electronics/computers), is never trust a new part 100 percent.
Always be ready to replace a new part. It can happen.
Also, did you do the work? Are the wheel cylinders the right ones for the side they are on? (rear/front etc)?
Lastly, check for heated up wheels from the drums not being adjusted right. You can use a handheld thermometer, a spray bottle with water or your hand (be careful please). If you get hissing then something is quite off. I wouldn't be surprised if you are getting some heat generated on at least one of the drums.
Good luck..
One thing I have learned in working on these cars (and on electronics/computers), is never trust a new part 100 percent.
Always be ready to replace a new part. It can happen.
Also, did you do the work? Are the wheel cylinders the right ones for the side they are on? (rear/front etc)?
Lastly, check for heated up wheels from the drums not being adjusted right. You can use a handheld thermometer, a spray bottle with water or your hand (be careful please). If you get hissing then something is quite off. I wouldn't be surprised if you are getting some heat generated on at least one of the drums.
Good luck..
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