Saylor, Keep in mind that the VR that you have is not designed to handle 100 amp alternators and neither is any of the factory wiring.
Can’t get an alternator to put out a charge
- Thread starter detmatt
- Start date
traintech55
Senior Member
This way you will get the correct belt geometry, then you can figure out your charging system. The bracket change over shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.
saylor
Senior Member
thanks dudes. if i fry the V/R i guess ill do this next lol its only money. thats what were here for right is to spend 10k on a 1k car right.
https://store.alternatorparts.com/hd-external-voltage-regulator-conversion-kit.aspx
https://store.alternatorparts.com/hd-external-voltage-regulator-conversion-kit.aspx
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I have done this myself without the kit, but I see they say their regulator is heavy duty. I bought a regulator, connector pigtail and wired it all up. The previous owner already installed a alt with 2 field terminals so I just wired up the new regulator and trashed the bad mechanical one.
Last edited:
saylor
Senior Member
just putting this here b/c i never heard of doing this test and i like it:
You should also thoroughly clean the battery posts and the clamps, and examine where the cables meet the clamps for corrosion under the insulation. When you reinstall the cables to the battery, turn on the headlights and measure voltage between the positive post and positive clamp, and between the negative post and negative clamp. With engine off and headlights on, you should not get more than 0.1 volts. If you do, you have a poor connection. Also with engine off and headlights on, measure voltage between the engine block and the negative post, should not be more than 0.1 volts. If it is, you have either a bad ground cable or connection.
You should also thoroughly clean the battery posts and the clamps, and examine where the cables meet the clamps for corrosion under the insulation. When you reinstall the cables to the battery, turn on the headlights and measure voltage between the positive post and positive clamp, and between the negative post and negative clamp. With engine off and headlights on, you should not get more than 0.1 volts. If you do, you have a poor connection. Also with engine off and headlights on, measure voltage between the engine block and the negative post, should not be more than 0.1 volts. If it is, you have either a bad ground cable or connection.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
This is the source I would recommend for heavy duty VRs. (and if I were to upgrade either of those squarebacks I've got, for stator and diodes.) Glad to see you found a satisfactory alternator. Scale up the wiring for the current and you'll be all set, for sure.
saylor
Senior Member
original and dl7552 alternator pivot point mount spacing is different. will get measurements soon i had to stop and do chores 
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
No surprise there. IDKY Vatozone listed it as for Chevy's when I browsed it earlier, but w all the cookies in my cache, such oddities occur. It looked wrong for a 1966 engine and brackets though, for sure. I pray you don't have to sweat getting it mounted too much. DO post us as to how this works out for you. I'm ALWAYS looking for cost effective solutions.
saylor
Senior Member
ya its off a 89 fifth ave or something
rags
Senior Member
i ve seen voltage drops that will light a test light.
saylor
Senior Member
so i havent tried the 5th ave alternator yet, i need to get my facilities guy to grind up that ear for me.
anyways i attacked this issue today from another angle. i decided to try to get the ALT lined back up with its original crankshaft pulley positions #3/#4. currently i had it sharing pulley position #2 with the P/S pump, which should be by itself. and the #2 crankshaft pulley is smaller than #1/#3/#4...
here you can see my stand-offs at the ALT bracket to move the ALT forward 1 belt/pulley position. this moved me from crankshaft pulley #3/#4 up to #2/#3.
anyways i attacked this issue today from another angle. i decided to try to get the ALT lined back up with its original crankshaft pulley positions #3/#4. currently i had it sharing pulley position #2 with the P/S pump, which should be by itself. and the #2 crankshaft pulley is smaller than #1/#3/#4...
saylor
Senior Member
so i undid that and put it back flush to the block.
then i took a spare A/C pulley and made a bracket out of 3/16" steel, and shimmed it up where the P/S pump mounts
this allowed me to put the P/S belt and W/P belts back to the stock configuration.
then i took a spare A/C pulley and made a bracket out of 3/16" steel, and shimmed it up where the P/S pump mounts
this allowed me to put the P/S belt and W/P belts back to the stock configuration.
saylor
Senior Member
it took me a couple of trys to get the lines lined up, but 2 washers and a remount of the pulley later i'm real close.
the clearances are no joke. when this pulley fails ill cut a new bracket that fits better, i got some ideas while fixing this one up.
the clearances are no joke. when this pulley fails ill cut a new bracket that fits better, i got some ideas while fixing this one up.
saylor
Senior Member
so, at idle, in gear, both fans running, the bass HITTIN hard, headlights on, im at 12.0 on a multimeter at the BATT posts. its at the very very very edge of nope.
but before this change, it was a straight nope without the headlights on it just couldnt do it. so im THIS close to having enough power at idle.
if i turn off the headlights it pops up to 12.2-4 and holds good at idle in gear. i have not rewired my lights yet, as i dont drive this car at night. but thats probably in my future. but i think it can sit at a stoplight now. ill test tomorrow.
but before this change, it was a straight nope without the headlights on it just couldnt do it. so im THIS close to having enough power at idle.
if i turn off the headlights it pops up to 12.2-4 and holds good at idle in gear. i have not rewired my lights yet, as i dont drive this car at night. but thats probably in my future. but i think it can sit at a stoplight now. ill test tomorrow.
78Brougham
"Chump"
Sorry.... but you still have issues... just sayin'
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I don't think he has put the 100+ amp alternator on it yet.
78Brougham
"Chump"
The pics looked like it was... Maybe I'm wrong. Been wrong before and will be again I'm sure.
saylor
Senior Member
yup this is the stock roundback 60a ALT or whatever it is dl7001 reman , not the 50a/120a ALT from the 5th ave dl7552 reman.
im studying up on doing the headlight relays now/next to offload that draw..
im studying up on doing the headlight relays now/next to offload that draw..
saylor
Senior Member
since im here on this post today helpin out someone else with ALT charging issues - a small update.
i DID do the crackedback slant6 dan headlight mod next, and I now have enough voltage to sit at lights now in idle.
if I have my stereo WAY loud and its super hitting, it does get mighty close to 12 when it hits, but then recovers. I probably need a 1k cap or something.
i DID do the crackedback slant6 dan headlight mod next, and I now have enough voltage to sit at lights now in idle.
if I have my stereo WAY loud and its super hitting, it does get mighty close to 12 when it hits, but then recovers. I probably need a 1k cap or something.
Similar threads
