Carburettor Identification Please? 383 2 barrel
- Thread starter DJAstral
- Start date
The factory 2 barrel carburetors were usually Strombergs.
Lower left corner by the fuel line. 3-276 is the model number. Stromberg carb, made by Bendix.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Hey! Welcome to FCBO. Neat car, neat carburetor. Fix your fuel line. . .
Triple Pickle
Senior Member
Unless you’re wanting to retain that carb for the purpose of originality, I’d be looking for a different setup. Those engines respond nicely to a dual plane 4bbl intake and Edelbrock 650. Better performance and probably better mileage untill you open the back barrels.Just my opinion.
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Welcome! More pics of your car please!!
You have a two barrel carb as noted above.
Not trying to be picky, but there are two safety issues I see in your picture.
Fix that fuel line - it's a fire waiting to happen. The proper steel fuel lines with safe flared ends are available from Inline Tube. They'll run from the fuel pump to the carb with only small rubber pieces at the filter over flares. From what I see your current rubber line is located dangerously close to the exhaust manifold.
Also, you have a drum brake master cylinder on a disc brake booster. Does your car have front discs? If so you need a proper disc master cylinder with the larger reservoir (front brakes reservoir is on the rearward part of the master).
You have a two barrel carb as noted above.
Not trying to be picky, but there are two safety issues I see in your picture.
Fix that fuel line - it's a fire waiting to happen. The proper steel fuel lines with safe flared ends are available from Inline Tube. They'll run from the fuel pump to the carb with only small rubber pieces at the filter over flares. From what I see your current rubber line is located dangerously close to the exhaust manifold.
Also, you have a drum brake master cylinder on a disc brake booster. Does your car have front discs? If so you need a proper disc master cylinder with the larger reservoir (front brakes reservoir is on the rearward part of the master).
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Hi there, thanks for the advice. I will change thd fuel pipe. My car has factory fitted Budd twin pot disc brakes at the front.
That sounds like a great set-up, Thanks for that - I’ll have to save up some cash & go for this conversion when I can.
Cool, then you MUST get the correct master cylinder. It's safer, the bore diameter and therefore the hydraulic ratio is better for your disc system too. If you can't source one for a 67 Monaco with discs, then go to a 69 or 70 Monaco/Polara/Chrysler with discs. It will bolt right up and be perfect. You've got a drum brake master cylinder on there, it is NOT good, and your braking is compromised.
Here's a link to the Rock Auto site showing master cylinders for 1967 Chrysler. Choose the front disc/rear drum option.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...327104,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=309068&cc=1327104&jsn=511
Here's a link to the Rock Auto site showing master cylinders for 1970 Chrysler. Choose the front disc/rear drum option.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...065439,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1610838&cc=1065439&jsn=425
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The red throttle spring is also incorrect for the application.
Dave
Dave
What's the correct colour spring Dave?
Most of the 2BBLs ones were red, this one looks like the long hook on the carb end broke off and somebody mickey'd it to fit, also might have been a universal spring for something other than a throttle return application, since the coil looks heavier that a standard throttle return spring. The small spring normally goes on the outer spring groove and the larger spring goes on the inner one. This setup is backwards. The long hook on the big spring is so that the spring does not hit the kickdown as the throttle is depressed.
Dave
I'll concur about the spring not being exactly correct. The carb end looks "modified". PLUS it should be hooker OVER the stud rather than under it.
NOTHING wrong with the Stromberg WWC-3 carbs. A good, solid design that works. Might not have the more evolved venturi design of more modern carbs, but it works. So long as the carb wing nut is not tightened down too much for too long. When that happens, it will deform the air horn where it seals the float bowl rear wall (under the carb stud). When that happens, it also opens the vacuum port that keeps the power piston closed, so the carb runs on "power mixture" all of the time. 11mpg rather than more. But that's the only issue with those carbs, from my experience on our '66 Newport 383. One night, it averaged 15mpg cruising 90mph across the far west TX area.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
You have a Stromberg WWC type carburetor, likely a 2-262. I have 3 now, having scored a couple off e-Pay. The second one came completely rebuilt and is doing very nicely these past 6+ months. I have a kit to rebuild another when need arises. They're simple, rugged little 2-bbl carbs, good for ~350 cfm. I plan to build a 400 to replace my 383, and get a Holley 2-bbl 500 cfm to replace the small Holley it came with. If I have extra $$ I might go for a 4-bbl setup, given the right intake, cam, etc, but I most likely will remain content w a somewhat enhanced build capable of using the 500 cfm capacity of one of the larger 2-bbls.
Do clean up your fuel delivery up top of your motor. Engine fires suck, especially when fueled by petrol. IFF this damned RAIN RAIN RAIN ever abates this year, I hope to get to work on Mathilda, my 66 Newport for further minor improvements and repairs. New fuel line is one of those, as is a sending unit.....
Do clean up your fuel delivery up top of your motor. Engine fires suck, especially when fueled by petrol. IFF this damned RAIN RAIN RAIN ever abates this year, I hope to get to work on Mathilda, my 66 Newport for further minor improvements and repairs. New fuel line is one of those, as is a sending unit.....
Hi there, could you please give me more details on which Edelbrock 650
Thanks for that, could you please give me more specifics about carb type, intake & any other parts I’d need to do the Ed 650 conversion, there are quite a few options I see. There is a Ed 650cfm Performer available new old stock near me, minus intake manifold, for £250 GBP, but not sure if this is right model for mine etc. Many thanks
Triple Pickle
Senior Member
You’ll need to find a carb that is compatible with the intake you choose (spread bore/square bore) also, a carb with the correct linkage for Chrysler throttle and kick down linkage.
Another concern is the bracket that bolts down with the intake bolts.
Edelbrock has a Performer carb/intake package deals that takes most of the guesswork out of it.
You definitely want a dual plane intake. I’m sure others can chime in and get you some specifics as far as model numbers go.
Triple Pickle
Senior Member
That’s a “B” engine (361-400) you may see 440 intakes that look very similar. A 440 is a “RB” engine and though the heads are interchangeable, the intakes are not ,due to deck height differences.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I got ~14mpg out of Tilly in 2016 when running between Maricopa Co and Toostoned. City mileage sux...PETROL AND LOTS OF IT! If I have to warm her up in cold wet weather in the morning, the mileage REALLY SUX. Once warmed up she does that ~11mpg in town.....
Hi there, thanks for all your help.
Has anyone got all the specific part numbers that they've used for converting a 383 2 BBL Stromberg to a 4 BBL Edelbrock? Eg Carb, Intake Manifold, Throttle Linkage, etc.
Sorry I'm new to this!
Has anyone got all the specific part numbers that they've used for converting a 383 2 BBL Stromberg to a 4 BBL Edelbrock? Eg Carb, Intake Manifold, Throttle Linkage, etc.
Sorry I'm new to this!
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