74delta
Member
Put it in the air. Shame on me for not noticing the pinion has tons of slop something wasn't assembled right. Off to a diff guy it goes
Center section swap issues
- Thread starter 74delta
- Start date
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Are you sure you don't want to try to return the 489 to the seller and rebuild the 742 open case? Add a sure-grip and you've got a great heavy duty 742 unit. 741 was light duty.
74delta
Member
I bought the case back in the spring I'm sure he would not be happy with the thought of giving my money back. I think I'm going to throw a mini spool in my open case for the time being and save up to do a full rebuild.
rags
Senior Member
like maybe he didn't use a new pinion nut. would it hurt to tighten it, give it a little preload and try it? it's that or the inner bearing's bad.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Didn't realize it had been that long. Shame on the seller for selling you that piece of junk.
rags
Senior Member
that's true. if he's decent, like a lot of us chrysler guys are, he might be good about it. might be a member here that knows him. lot of local guys here.
74delta
Member
I tried to tighten it some. Breaker bar with a 3ft cheater and got maybe an 8th of a turn and thought I was going to break something and didn't feel like getting it in the face with a shattered breaker. Pretty disheartened but it is what it is. I learned the hard way not to trust people. At the same token I don't think he knew because he had it rebuilt by someone else.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
That's a tough predicament for you. Not sure the rebuilder would still be in business, with quality like that. Maybe the right thing is to let the seller know not to use that rebuilder again.
rkrochen
Senior Member
Well at least you tried. At this time it is pretty hard to guess what was done and why it this way without taking it apart. Unfortunately it sounds like you have a bit of a mess on your hands. Pretty sure most of us have been there. Good luck getting it fixed.
74delta
Member
I have to tell you the more and more I think about it I think that the crush sleeve isn't crushed yet. The pinion nut is on the pinion but the treaded end is flush with the nut.
rags
Senior Member
@1970FuryConv just did one. how much effort did it take to crush the sleeve?
rkrochen
Senior Member
It takes some effort but even if it isn’t crushed and you manage to do so it is likely the backlash in the gear set will need readjustment anyways. If this isn’t done it will be very noisy anyways. Also if you drive it too far the gears will mate in this position and you will never get them quite later.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
This is factory torque and crush on my 1972 489 Case
74delta
Member
Ya my nut is flush. No thread showing at all. I think the guy either forgot or just didn't crush it.
74delta
Member
Exactly so me putting the effort to crush it would be futile. Sounds like the open case is going back in and ill have to drop this one off to be inspected by someone more knowledgeable and with the proper tools. Sucks. I really appreciate all the input from everyone.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I didn't replace the crush sleeve. I replaced the pinion oil seal.
I used a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke on my bench.
Final tighten: 1 ¼” ss, 3 ext, Armstrong ½” TW @ 170-170’lbs.
Preload check
· Turning torque: 2” lbs, same as before. No variation in turning force thru 360°.
I think that someone offers a kit to convert the tapered 1 7/8" pinion to using shims.
You could also remove the suregrip unit and install it in your old center section.
The problem with buying used stuff, or stuff claimed to be rebuilt is that you don't know if the seller actually used it and his claims are good or if it's something he bought to flip or was in some sort of package deal.
If it were me, I'd probably take a long look at what was there and if it's good, just set it up right and chalk it up to experience.
You could also remove the suregrip unit and install it in your old center section.
The problem with buying used stuff, or stuff claimed to be rebuilt is that you don't know if the seller actually used it and his claims are good or if it's something he bought to flip or was in some sort of package deal.
If it were me, I'd probably take a long look at what was there and if it's good, just set it up right and chalk it up to experience.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Since it has to come apart, wobble in pinion. I would do as John suggested, put it in the 742 case. You will have to transfer ring gear. That's fairly easy with a oven or stove, best to do when wife's not home, tends to stink a bit. Heat the ring gear you want on ~200°-250°. Make mark before you heat it where bolt hole is and also on carrier, it will slip right on carrier then start the bolts to ensure its lined up. Ring gear bolts are left handed threads. Then reinstall in case, snug bolts on bearing caps and adjust screw adjusters to eliminate back lash. Then adjust to allow for around .006 backlash is good on broken in gears. You should really use a dial indicator on it but a skinny feeler guage can work. It should slide way in and eliminate the back lash, has to slide in one jammed in the v of the mesh area will eliminate backlash but not give correct reading.
twostick
Senior Member
I'm not sure I would put a lot of effort into swapping an unknown cone type SG especially given everything that is FUBAR on it. Unless you can verify that all the bearings and gears are new, I would assume whoever built that thing to begin with just threw together a bunch of used junk laying around the shop and sent it.
If there is a way to measure the cones to see if there is anything to work with I guess you could do it but they aren't rebuildable if they are shot.
Kevin
74delta
Member
Not sure about the cones but I can say all the bearing that could be seen for sure were new seals aswell. Even the messed up pinion side had a brand new seal.
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