Chrysler Starter disassembly and refresh.

[HWYCRZR]

Re assembly.
Actuating fork. And then the flywheel drive in which the small gear on the armature turns the big gear on the drive. Giving it about a 3-1/2 to one gear reduction. (If I counted correctly)
The armature turns 3-1/2 times for every full turn of the drive.

 

[Polara_500]

Bringing back old memories (nightmares properly).

 

[HWYCRZR]

Time to button it up.

Connect the solenoid to the brush plate and tighten the solenoid lug.
You will also have to thread the solenoid wire up through the small hole to wind around the brush terminal.

install the solenoid and brush holder in the nose cone and secure the brush plate.

my small copper lead from the field coils broke when I was unwinding it from the brush terminal. It is a 23 gauge copper wire. I have a roll of Cat5 internet wire. Guess what gauge each strand is? 23 gauge. I striped a chunk and spliced it. And then soldered the splice.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I wound both the wire from the solenoid and the windings around the power brush pole and then used a dab of solder to make sure it maintains contact.
Connected the Brush terminal from the case to the other brush terminal and assembled the motor case. Made sure no bare wires could contact ground.

Then dropped the armature in and buttoned it up.
Also sealed around the brush plate and housing as the manual says to keep water out of the solenoid.
Almost brand new.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Floor test and install.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Job completed. The starter sounds twice as fast as before.
Short clip - Proof that it works. Sorry it started so fast.

 

[Barry S]

Thanks for this awesome tutorial! I'm sure I have a starter rebuild in my future - It works fine now, but after 53 years and 110,000 miles I'm sure it's due. This post will certainly help!!

 

[mr. fix it]

Contactor , solinoid and brush holder refresh. My contact points in my brush holder showed some signs of wear (welding). I could not find replacements so I used emery cloth to sand them down to get a smooth contact surface (more contact area). The post on the right is the positive cable post and the post on the left is the copper rivet that holds the brush terminal in place.
View attachment 375732

top view.
View attachment 375733

The contacter was also pitted I sanded it down as well, but after looking I decided I could flip it over to get a new side.
View attachment 375734
View attachment 375735

Interesting thread. Thanks for sharing your experience here. I remember flipping the contact plates to extend the life of the starter back when I was first pulling wrenches.
Thought process was that a McQuiver repair was worth it's wieght in gold opposed to just throwing a rebuild into the engine to fix it.
The simple replacement of the entire starter doesn't teach you much. This thread does!
Thanks

 

[Samplingman]

Great writeup thanks. I’m going through mine now, and this wire has me stumped, there is no evidence of it ever being there. It seams redundant since the field coil is screwed to the brushes where a wire also is directly attached to the solenoid.

Your pic:

My pic (those scratch marks on the field coil was from me probing to find evidence of the wire):

 

[HWYCRZR]

Great writeup thanks. I’m going through mine now, and this wire has me stumped, there is no evidence of it ever being there. It seams redundant since the field coil is screwed to the brushes where a wire also is directly attached to the solenoid.

Your pic:

View attachment 383447

My pic (those scratch marks on the field coil was from me probing to find evidence of the wire):
View attachment 383448

My picture is at a bad angle and I deleted all my others, but that small wire is the end of the coil windings. I need to think through the theory of that small wire as it is directly powered when the solenoid is engaged. My thought is that this energized wire helps create the magnetic field to help the armature start turning. I would be open to correction or explanation from someone more versed in electric motors.

 

[TylerW]

To the OP..great job! I've done several of those starters. They are always fun.

The mystery wire that the OP's starter has and the second starter did not is a shunt. I'm not totally versed in electric motors either, but essentially, the shunt serves as an rpm limiter so that the starter motor does not overspeed, especially once the engine catches bit before the key is released. It diverts voltage once the starter motor spins up to a certain point. Someone will probably jump in and correct me after this being posted a year and a half but that's as well as I can explain it.

The reason the OP's starter has it and the other doesn't and never did is that the OP has the first gear reduction starter model...2095150, which is a 3-series, 1-shunt starter used from 1962-69, as was the 2875560 starter used from the very tail end of 1969 production until the end of 1972 production. Somewhere around that time engines started getting "smogged", detuned and harder to start, so Chrysler deleted the shunt coil and turned the starters into straight 4-series(4 coils) starters to speed them up. Shortly thereafter, the coils were enlarged to speed the starters up yet again. That's why the early starters turn slower but don't have that awful, grinding wind-down sound the later versions do, especially the reman units.

Around 1974 Chrysler also introduced the "large frame" starter which has a larger field housing and different gear ratio, to be used on big-blocks and eventually everything. Those have their own unique sound. Also, there WAS an early starter that had no shunt...part #2098500. Used on 1963-ONLY 225 slant six and all 170 Slant six engines. I have one and it does indeed spin faster than the 2095150. To this day I have never seen an explanation for why that starter existed.

Hopes this helps. BTW, did you remember to install the leather brake washer between the large driven gear and the gear housing? They exist. I had to order mine from some obscure outfit. They tend to wear away pretty fast..I have only encountered one used starter that still had one.

 

[Samplingman]

Wow, that’s great info, I wish I had known this back then. The FSM and any online sources were thoroughly confusing, they all mentioned the importance of that wire.

After the missing wire, the frustration of getting the coil magnets over the shaft, and then ultimately not even hearing a “click” after bench testing, I brought it to AutoZone as a core and never looked back.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Hopes this helps. BTW, did you remember to install the leather brake washer between the large driven gear and the gear housing? They exist. I had to order mine from some obscure outfit. They tend to wear away pretty fast..I have only encountered one used starter that still had one.

I am not sure. If it was totally nonexistent and not shown in the diagram probably not. If there were pieces I would probably have fixed it. But I thought there was a fiber washer in there somewhere, but it was a while ago. I think our local starter guy rebuilt it in the 70’s or early 80’s, so could have been changed. No plans to take it apart and look at this point. Hopefully no need for quite some time.