Chrysler Starter disassembly and refresh.

[HWYCRZR]

I figured that since I had my starter out for a refresh I would post some reference for others if they wish to try it themselves. First full disclosure, I am not a professional, but I did take a couple of Automotive electrical classes back in my college days.
When I rebuilt my engine 12 years ago, I pulled my starter apart and just cleaned it up. At the time I did notice my bushings were kind of worn, but didn’t find a source ( the internet was still new). Anyway it worked ok, but at times seems a little slower now than it did when I first cleared it up. I got a car lift last weekend and since I could walk under my car I could see my starter so I decided to taken it apart.
I KNOW I CAN BUY A MINI STARTER FOR CHEAP, BUT THATS NOT WHAT I WANT FOR THIS CAR.

 

[mrfury68]

Good luck. By the way, I love your car and your garage.

 

[HWYCRZR]

First off if you don’t have a FSM (field service manual ) get one. It will help take some of the intimidation out of it. if I would have had a 300 amp capable ammeter or a carbon pile, I would have done some diagnostic testing before pulling the starter. This would help pinpoint any issues with wiring causing voltage drops due to corrosion, loose terminals, bad ground, or bad wires. I have a brand new positive and negative wiring that is tight and corrosion free.

Next into the meat of it

 

[Dana]

Very nice, thank you

 

[HWYCRZR]

Removal of starter. Disconnect battery so you don’t start welding. I have single exhaust with a cross over pipe. I had to drop that down to provide clearance to remove the starter. Starter removed.

The starter is fairly simple. You have the motor case which has the windings

The armature

The brush holder plate

The solenoid which is internal on these. The solenoid is like the conductor and leads the way to a successful start. positive battery power is just sitting there waiting to go to work. When you solenoid is energized it pushes the copper contacter connecting the positive power to the brushes while also energizing the windings to create the magnetic field that turns the starter motor. It also kicks the starter gear to engage the flywheel

 

[HWYCRZR]

These are the gear drives that engage your flywheel.

I will try to identify the parts with the correct name as it is called in the manual.
Pinion shaft. The load of the rotation is on this shaft the helical gears are what allows the starter to help ease the starter gear to engage the flywheel with out grinding.

The clutch assembly which has a one way clutch allows disengagement. When your engine starts and turns faster than your starter it allows the starter gear to free wheel when power is disconnected from the starter the solenoid spring and inertia allows the gear to disengage.

 

[HWYCRZR]

The last two pieces don’t see much movement but are critical to a good working starter.
The actual starter housing and the motor end cap.

Both of these contain critical bushings. If these are worn or sloppy your starter may not function to its fullest.
As you can see there is very little clearance between the windings in the case and the armature. Sloppy bushings can allow the armature to hit the case causing drag or a short slowing or stopping the starter.

The starter housing has three bushings.
I found two, the housing nose and armature drive end (same size) at Rock Auto and e-bay. The upper drive bushing was on E-bay but not Rock Auto, and I actually had to order a new end cap with bushing off E-bay. I did find a 2007 starter catalog that has the bushing sizes. You may be able to find them at your local Bearings and Drive store.
Chrysler P/N’s. 2- 2098986 bearing pinion housing, 1- 2098987 Bearing, gear housing drive shaft.
2095076. Head commutator end

You can really see the wear ridge in the cap

 

[Moparwilks]

Wow, I just had a high school auto shop
Flashback! When people used to repair
Things. Why would you want a mini
Starter? You loose that trademark sound!
Save the mini nips for the Frankenstein Dusters with headers. Great tutoring!

 

[HWYCRZR]

Starter bushing size.
Some bushing sizes from a 2007 catalog (Wai) I found online. I believe they mainly sell to distributors and these parts don't show up in their online catalog.
This is for the early Gear reduction Starters at least through 1968. If your Solenoid has ears it is the later model and the bushings are different sizes.
Link to catalog ( has all starters). http://www.electricmotorsvc.com/pdf/87-501-07_Str_Cat.pdf

This should cover all the bushings in the starter.

Qty 2 P/N 2098986 bearing pinion housing
.4725" (12mm) ID x .5955" (15.13mm) OD x .735" (18.7 mm)

Quantity 1 P/N 2098987 Gear housing drive shaft
.6865" (17.44mm) ID x .8145" (20.69mm) OD x .670" (17mm) L

End cap bushing. I did not find this bushing in the parts manual.
But says below it is 2095078 End frame bushing ( goes in motor cap.
.7425" (18.86mm) ID x .8780" (22.30mm) OD x .590" (15.0mm) L

 

[HWYCRZR]

Here is a good exploded view in case you forget where the washers go because you didn’t take enough disassembly pictures.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Well after that and finding the missing P/N without needing the cap I found the full set of bushings on E-bay
STARTER DODGE BUSHING SET, OEM 2098986, 2 EA., 2088987 & 2095078, 1 EA. | eBay

 

[65sporty]

I have had a bunch of GM's, a few Fords, lots of Nippondenso's apart, but I don't think I have ever had one of these apart.

 

[HWYCRZR]

More documentation stuff (mainly for me in case I want to know the size of this later)before getting into the assembly in the next couple of days when my bushings arrive.
Contactor rivet - This transfers the power from the battery via the contactor ring ( copper washer) and up to the brushes. If you need new brushes you need to replace this, or Unsolder your old brush wires and re solder the new. Anyway the rivet dimensions are 1/4 long x 5/32 dia.

Rivet on the left

Top view

 

[413]

Wow, Why would you want a mini
Starter? You loose that trademark sound!
Save the mini nips for the Frankenstein Dusters with headers. Great tutoring!

I fully agree, I don’t want my classic mopar sounding like a foreign car when I start it. Those factory gear reduction starters work plenty fine.

I sold a great mopar to a friend, I went over and we took that car and I almost puked, it sounds like a damn Toyota when it starts, I’m not a fan.

 

[mikedrini]

I admire your sand in tackling this, Walter C. would be proud, nice post.

 

[James Romano]

Thanks for posting this. I just finished my dizzy refresh and was considering my starter as well. Not sure I will go in as deep as you, but all your info and pics will definitely help me (and many others) decide.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Enough theory. Although if one understands how things work, diagnosing is much easier.
Bushings arrived today.
First step, remove the old. There is actually a Chrysler tool to pull the bushings. If you don’t pound too hard you can use a small set of bearing and bushing drivers. (2nd choice after tool) Or you can do what I did and use some 1/4” drive deep well sockets and an extension. The key is to not pound, but light taps. To facilitate removal and installation, I used my heat gun on the aluminum housing to get some expansion. The aluminum heats and holds heat longer than the brass bushings. So it expands a little. It only took some light taps to get them out and put the new ones in.

 

[HWYCRZR]

Contactor , solinoid and brush holder refresh. My contact points in my brush holder showed some signs of wear (welding). I could not find replacements so I used emery cloth to sand them down to get a smooth contact surface (more contact area). The post on the right is the positive cable post and the post on the left is the copper rivet that holds the brush terminal in place.

top view.

The contacter was also pitted I sanded it down as well, but after looking I decided I could flip it over to get a new side.

 

[HWYCRZR]

As I said earlier I don’t have a growler which checks for short circuit. With an amp meter I could test for ground. Put one lead in the shaft and then go around each copper segment of the of the armature with the other lead. It should show an open circuit. If our amp meter shows continuity ( a completed circuit then you have a short. Signifying a bad armature.

Also now is a good time to dress your armature if there is excessive wear or ridges on the armature to give a nice smooth surface for your brushes to ride on. If you are re using your brushes, a little smoothing on them is also in order. Brushes can be reused if they still have half or more remaining. If they have been oil soaked you will need to replace. To replace you will need to unsolder from the solenoid post and re solder or replace the rivet that holds the post. If you can find one.
my new brushes said to drill through the rivet remove the old brushes and secure the post with a bolt and nut. Maybe there was supposed to be one in the package. If so mine is missing. My brushes compared to the new still have at least 3/4 left, so I will smooth them and re use.

 

[HWYCRZR]

One more step prior to full assembly.
Setting your brushes so you can get the armature back in. The brushes are spring loaded and want to push out of the holder. There is this handy dandy little ring with tabs that should have been at the bottom of the shaft. This actually holds your brushes in place until you install the armature which pushes this ring down as the brushes are engaging. It is next to impossible if you do not use this.