cold start - lifter tapping - whats an eskimo to do ?

[saylor]

o wise and venerable forum !

so, its cold here. when starting the car, I can hear lifters tapping for a few seconds, until oil gets splashed around.

1.) am I killing it?

2.) what do you people north of the red river do to avoid/prevent/minimize this?

thanks!

- saylor

 

[detmatt]

Ignore them until they pump up.

 

[Rwc]

Only worry if it sounds like a washing machine full of rocks for more than 30 seconds

 

[cantflip]

They probably aren't running 50 weight this time of year either

 

[saylor]

They probably aren't running 50 weight this time of year either

after dumping my last 5qt of expensive-*** 50wt racing oil on the ground, I bought the cheapest vatozone recycled-diaper based oil they had, and the car honestly runs better.

 

[Davea Lux]

Your lifters are probably leaking down from sitting overnight. They will take a few seconds until the oil pressure comes up to stop clicking and it wont hurt anything.. You would want to be running 10-40 or 10-30 oil in very cold temperatures (below 20F).

Dave

 

[Big_John]

How cold and what weight oil are you using?

 

[twostick]

How cold and what weight oil are you using?

He's in Garland TX. He has no concept of real cold. Lol

Kevin

 

[saylor]

40* and straight 30w probably.

He's in Garland TX. He has no concept of real cold. Lol

Kevin

this is all true . its not so bad like Minneapolis or something

 

[Big_John]

40* and straight 30w probably.



this is all true . its not so bad like Minneapolis or something

Start using 10w-30 oil.

 

[bajajoaquin]

The other rattly lifter trick is to put a quart of ATF in the oil. Run the car a bit and then change the oil. The extra detergents in the ATF cleans gunk out (you have no idea how many times my phone has autocorrected that to something different). Might let them pump up faster in the morning.

 

[david hill]

o wise and venerable forum !

so, its cold here. when starting the car, I can hear lifters tapping for a few seconds, until oil gets splashed around.

1.) am I killing it?

2.) what do you people north of the red river do to avoid/prevent/minimize this?

thanks!

- saylor

Change your oil and use a High quality oil such as Valvoline Max Life 10w30 and a good oil filter to boot. The key to long engine life is to have near instant oil pressure to minimize engine wear. I run this combo in my 300 w/ superior results.

 

[69monaco]

The other rattly lifter trick is to put a quart of ATF in the oil. Run the car a bit and then change the oil. The extra detergents in the ATF cleans gunk out (you have no idea how many times my phone has autocorrected that to something different). Might let them pump up faster in the morning.

Don,t forget to check/clean your oil-pan and oil-pickup after that.....!!!

 

[rapidtrans]

Now it sounds like a slant six. Those engines had that ticking sound year round at start-up. Usually died down before i could back car out of garage.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

The other rattly lifter trick is to put a quart of ATF in the oil. Run the car a bit and then change the oil. The extra detergents in the ATF cleans gunk out (you have no idea how many times my phone has autocorrected that to something different). Might let them pump up faster in the morning.

No offense, but you can spin a bearing this way. It is a GOOD trick, but only let the engine idle with the ATF in it for about 5 min. & don't attempt this on a high mileage car that hasn't had its oil changed regularly. A good friend of mine seized a Trans Am engine this way. It had 200,000 miles, poor oil maintenance and was full of sludge. ALL the sludge came loose at once and blocked off the oil pickup tube.

ATF will definitely remove sludge in seconds & often a little sludge in a lifter oil bleed hole, in a pushrod oil hole, lifter oil hole or even the #4 cam journal on big blocks can cause a "tick" at startup.

If this doesn't work though & the "tick" is still there, you may have a mechanical problem, especially if it's a high mileage motor or has been run hard. In my opinion, in order of likelihood, I would also start looking at this stuff if ATF doesn't do the trick (& see if you can narrow it down with a mechanic's stethoscope)
a. lifter worn or internal spring weak
b. wear on one/two pushrods or rocker arms
c. main bearings getting worn
d. oil pump getting weak

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Time to sell IMO.

I got my 1968 4dr Fury III (with one small dent) DD for $100 that had been sitting in the salesman's driveway for eons. I passed it daily on my way to work as the sub frame on my 2nd PK21 had cracked and broken due to not heating it when I straightened it out after a high speed spin-out off road mishap and was a chore to drive over 30mph on other than neighborhood streets.
Mention the car to a friend and he said he knew the guy as he was a former salesman with him. He called him up and he said yea he'll sell just stop by. Did that, but found battery was dead so swapped my battery, oh boy sir that's got a bad rap in the engine, I'll take it off yer hands fer a hundred, SOLD!
Got it home changed oil & filter, Topped up the tranny fluid (didn't even bother to look for the leak he said it had) cleaned out the interior, 2 full paper shopping bags of matchbooks (remember those) found in between the seats & on floor, cleaned out ashtray that was overflowing with cigar ash, disassembled & wash dash speedo, gauges & switches as they were total encrusted in nicotine. (I didn't smoke at the time) Cleaned steering wheel too. Vac & wash, removed the 2 brand new studded 14" snow tires from the rear and put my 15" radials on.
Then off the Florida for a 3 week vacation! Lifter noise was gone by first gas stop and later on when I got back the transmission leak was due to chaff/wear from the bracket that held the 2 lines at rear of block. Slice a section of fuel line, slide over trans line & one mini clamp, FIXED.

By the time I got rid of that car I walked around it saying to my girlfriend, "Ya know I'm responsible for everyone of these dents in this car but one".

 

[70bigblockdodge]

It's just worn, as long as it does not do it constantly, ignore and carry on. Rebuild sometime in the future.

 

[MoPar Maniac]

It it has a Fram filter, junk it and replace with something better (wont take much). Filter is draining and until it fills the engine rattles.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Oh the FRAM hating... used them in all my Mopars never had a problem, I suspect you have something else going on.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Oh the FRAM hating... used them in all my Mopars never had a problem, I suspect you have something else going on.

Yes if you have a big block draining a oil filter that is basically the same level as the oil level in the pan you have bigger problems than finding a oil filter to blame it on.
Again you have a worn engine, maybe a slightly bent push rod. If it is quite after 20-30 seconds it is just part of the character of a old car, relax and enjoy.