Cooling issues

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redsled

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I have a 67 Monaco with a 22” factory rad. Has anyone ever switched the rad support to the 26” version? I have a built 383 in it and cooling can be an issue sometimes.
I have a line on one out of a 66 Chrysler 300 but am not sure of the fitment. Want to ensure it’s exact as there is shipping involved.
Any input is appreciated!
IMG_6150.jpeg
 
IIRC you may have to stick with '67-'68 Polara or Monaco 26" rad support. Not sure if '67-'68 Fury or Chrysler would work. Others here may have a more definitive answer for you. Good luck and that is a beautiful Monaco you have there.
 
I would be shocked if a Chrysler rad support wound't fit in a Monaco. But then again I'm shocked that your car overheats in Nova Scotia.:rolleyes:

Hey - did the car originally have a 383? If so why didn't it come with a 26" rad?

(can you post the fender tag? Nice car.)
 
I concur, neat looking car. In one of the "right" colors, too.

In the 1968 Chrysler Parts book I downloaded from www.mymopar.com , using 1968 as a guide, there are only TWO C-body "yokes" for 1968. 22' Radiator "core" or 26" Radiator "core". Which means Plymouth Fury, Dodge Polara/Monaco, and all Chryslers take just TWO part numbers, depending upon the radiator bolted to it. Imperials are different, for whatever reasons, but with 28" radiators.

C-body B/RB non-factory a/c cars, standard cooling cars, got 22" radiators in 1968
(Mr. Gerald Morris has a '66 or '67 Newport conv 383 which has a 22" radiator in it. FWIW)
C-body B/RB factory a/c cars got 26" radiators.
Imperials got 28" radiators.

So look in Group 7 for the radiator (termed "core") listings and also for the core support (termed "yoke") part number listings for 1967 part numbers. www.mymopar.com

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
MoPar~Man said:
I would be shocked if a Chrysler rad support wound't fit in a Monaco. But then again I'm shocked that your car overheats in Nova Scotia.:rolleyes:

Hey - did the car originally have a 383? If so why didn't it come with a 26" rad?

(can you post the fender tag? Nice car.)
Click to expand...
I did state that it was a built 383. It’s 12:1 compression. Heats up fast.
I gave it to a friend of mine to build and he went a little overboard. lol. But it sure is fun to dive.
 
CBODY67 said:
I concur, neat looking car. In one of the "right" colors, too.

In the 1968 Chrysler Parts book I downloaded from www.mymopar.com , using 1968 as a guide, there are only TWO C-body "yokes" for 1968. 22' Radiator "core" or 26" Radiator "core". Which means Plymouth Fury, Dodge Polara/Monaco, and all Chryslers take just TWO part numbers, depending upon the radiator bolted to it. Imperials are different, for whatever reasons, but with 28" radiators.

C-body B/RB non-factory a/c cars, standard cooling cars, got 22" radiators in 1968
(Mr. Gerald Morris has a '66 or '67 Newport conv 383 which has a 22" radiator in it. FWIW)
C-body B/RB factory a/c cars got 26" radiators.
Imperials got 28" radiators.

So look in Group 7 for the radiator (termed "core") listings and also for the core support (termed "yoke") part number listings for 1967 part numbers. www.mymopar.com

Enjoy!
CBODY67
Click to expand...
Thanks so much CBODY67. I’ll have a look at that later today and report back.
 
MoPar~Man said:
I would be shocked if a Chrysler rad support wound't fit in a Monaco. But then again I'm shocked that your car overheats in Nova Scotia.:rolleyes:

Hey - did the car originally have a 383? If so why didn't it come with a 26" rad?

(can you post the fender tag? Nice car.)
Click to expand...
Yes, car was originally a 383. The best part is it’s a four speed.
 
I have a '68 Sport Fury with a 520" stroker and run a 4 core, narrow fin 22" radiator in it with a shroud and fan clutch and have no issues.

Is any part of your cooling system aluminum? I ask because I used to run a Mopar Performance aluminum water pump housing and found out the hard way that the green coolant that we have to run in our cars will turn acidic over time and eat any aluminum in the cooling system, which will end up clogging the radiator etc.
 
FURYGT said:
I have a '68 Sport Fury with a 520" stroker and run a 4 core, narrow fin 22" radiator in it with a shroud and fan clutch and have no issues.

Is any part of your cooling system aluminum? I ask because I used to run a Mopar Performance aluminum water pump housing and found out the hard way that the green coolant that we have to run in our cars will turn acidic over time and eat any aluminum in the cooling system, which will end up clogging the radiator etc.
Click to expand...
I just run water in mine. It’s the original rad but built up to a 3 core from the original 2. It’s a 440 Source water pump. No shroud which I’m sure is part of the problem.
I’m looking to revamp the entire coolin system and want to ensure I give it every chance. Hence the switch to 26”.
 

1966 Polara Radiator fitment

Hey all, my Polara has a 22" rad from a '68 c body, meant for a 318. It needs to be replaced. It looks like most replacements available to me are 26". Will these also fit or will there be modifications needed? The reason I ask is because the opening in the rad support is only approx. 22".
www.forcbodiesonly.com
 
Don't discount the tune that is in your motor being a problem. With that kind of compression, who knows what your guy did with cam and distributor timing characteristics or mixture which, if lean, could cause overheating for example. Since it doesn't appear you have the skills to diagnose the motor, get someone qualified to take a look if you can find someone!
If you don't have a shroud, you must get that taken care of first. Most of all, don't just start throwing parts at it like a lot of people will suggest. Don't buy anything not based on discovery.
 
Jayarr said:
Don't discount the tune that is in your motor being a problem. With that kind of compression, who knows what your guy did with cam and distributor timing characteristics or mixture which, if lean, could cause overheating for example. Since it doesn't appear you have the skills to diagnose the motor, get someone qualified to take a look if you can find someone!
If you don't have a shroud, you must get that taken care of first. Most of all, don't just start throwing parts at it like a lot of people will suggest. Don't buy anything not based on discovery.
Click to expand...
Thanks, and you’re right, I don’t have the knowledge but the guy who built it is my best friend. Lol. If anything it runs a little rich.
I don’t have a shroud, again you can get one for a 26” but not the 22”, that I have found anyways.
It’s time to upgrade, my rad is leaking. Trying to put the right combination in it.
Appreciate your help.
 
redsled said:
Yes. Will add motor was built 12 years ago.

this is what I’m up against. I have a guy with a 26” support out of a 66 Chrysler. I’m pretty sure it will fit but want to be positive before I pay to ship it.
Click to expand...
You need to find a copy of the Hollander Interchange Manual covering the 1960s cars. It will mention what interchanges with what AND what it will take to make it fit the desired vehicle. Salvage yards used to have them on the shelf for reference. Some were available for sale from book vendors. Maybe used book vendors, now?

By observation, shipping something of that nature can be "trouble" if shipped by "truck freight". Even if it is strapped to a pallet. If shipped loose or in a wooden frame, still easy for it to be damaged/bent. Costs escalate, too.

If the vehicle is significantly overheating, as in a normal running temp over 230*F into a headwind, that would indicate an engine tuning issue to me, combined with restricted by "accumulations" in the water jacket. No matter how much power the engine is supposed to make.

You might search the FBBO forums to see what people in there are using for their stroker RB motors and such, as I suspect many more B-bodies had 22" radiators than not.

Make sure the existing cooling system is doing all it can do, FIRST. Which can mean getting the block passages cleaned out, etc.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I had a custom core 26" in my C body changed the core support
us a shroud and a hd clutch fan and a 7 blade fan
I also use a pusher fan connected to the AC and a speedometer drive from a 400 that was supposed to keep the Vac Advance off till gets to speed I use it with a relay to turn off the electric fan a 28 mph lot of uses from these units which attach to the trans you can also use a temp sender or a sw on the AC high side MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE IN STOP AND GO DRIVING in hot weather
seal all the openings in the core support and run a spoiler under the crossmember
 
wyrmrider said:
I had a custom core 26" in my C body changed the core support
us a shroud and a hd clutch fan and a 7 blade fan
I also use a pusher fan connected to the AC and a speedometer drive from a 400 that was supposed to keep the Vac Advance off till gets to speed I use it with a relay to turn off the electric fan a 28 mph lot of uses from these units which attach to the trans you can also use a temp sender or a sw on the AC high side MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE IN STOP AND GO DRIVING in hot weather
seal all the openings in the core support and run a spoiler under the crossmember
Click to expand...
THAT is all good advice!! Thanks for the response.
 
I have a Bee-Cool radiator that was too big for the opening, I think it's a 26" radiator, but I didn't measure it. It made no difference to me, It fit between the battery and the right frame rail. It came with a notch cut into the tank for the right frame rail, approximately 3/4 of an inch deep. To take advantage of the entire radiator core, I had to cut 4 1/4" from the opening and moved the original edge back and welded it. It looks like it could have come from the factory like this. Well, at least to the guys that aren't on here :) .
Here's some pictures, it really wasn't that difficult to do.

This is where it started


IMG_2251.PNG


Then I cut 4 1/4" out of it. Here you can see I moved the original metal at the opening back. I used some of the metal I cut out, to fill the gap.


thumbnail_IMG_2244.jpg


Here it is welded.

thumbnail_IMG_2245.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_2246.png
thumbnail_IMG_2247.jpg


It's thin here, but not a problem.

thumbnail_IMG_2248.jpg


Here it is primed and installed so I can fit the condenser, drier, and put holes in it for the hoses. Then it comes back out for paint. It's the last part to paint. You can see the opening is large enough now. I still need to make a shroud for electric fans, I'm running 1 large one and a smaller one because I don't want to have a cooling problem. I have a 140 amp alternator and there's an American Auto Wire Highway 22 plus harness installed so the fans and all the other electronics are covered without any wires getting hot.

thumbnail_IMG_2250.jpg


This is how I took care of the opening, you may find a better way. Good luck!! Over 40 years ago I had a cooling problem with this car, if I remember right, it had a lot to do with the timing and air/fuel ratio. I was screwing with it, without understanding things well enough :(
Might want to check those things out.?.?
 
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