commando1
Old Man with a Hat
What is back masking?
Critters other mistress..1970 Plymouth Fury 3
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cm23uoc
Old Man with a Hat
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Roll it up a bit beneath the crease line. Still happens at least with me that you get too much paint under the "lip".
70Tom
Senior Member
It's where you take a piece of masking tape and basically fold it backwards (except you're rolling it backwards) to expose part of the sticky side. You then get a 2nd piece of masking tape to hold the "roll over".
70Tom
Senior Member
You need to start your tape line several inches into the painted area/past the area that actually needs painting. The section that is painted don't hit so hard with the paint. Essentially, this is the "blending" of the 2 sections.
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cm23uoc
Old Man with a Hat
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You're right, he is by all means too near the crease line already to Keep the repaint beneath it, or would you go over the line in any case with such a Panel shape ?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Don't think I'll be attempting that in the foreseeable future.
70Tom
Senior Member
You'd still want to go over the body line to blend the paint in to the area that still has paint. You just have to make sure you're not laying the paint down too thick on the line. To ensure this, you need to make sure to actually move your arm with the shape of the car to keep the same distance away from the panel and not up and down in a straight line (which would result in your being farther away at the bottom of the panel [lighter paint spray] and closer at the body line [heavier paint/buildup].)
If you mask right at the body line, I'd say you're more likely to have a paint line there if anything.
CanCritter
Senior Member
l didn't want to either...
but looks like lm gona have a shot at it....worst case scenario is lm gona have to live with it till whole cars painted if l screw it up...last company took 3 weeks to match up the paint and still didn't get it right
70Tom
Senior Member
Just use your judgment. After looking again at your pics, in one, it looks like there's no reason to go past the body line. There's a good amount of paint south of the line that you can blend into. In the others, you're really close, so it's better to go past it. However, in either case, I still wouldn't tape right on the line. Either stop short of it (an inch or so) or go past (a couple inches.)
Just make sure you use good painting technique and you should be fine. And if you screw it up? It's not that big of a deal. Wait for it to dry, strip it off, and try again. As for the paint shop not getting the color right, well, I guess test the heck out of the paint before laying it down on the car. As I stated, because that section of the car gets little sun, it should be close to the original factory color, which unless the formula of the new paint causes a change in color, it shouldn't be too hard to match based on the original formula. My local shop mixed up several rattle cans of Frosted Teal Poly for me and it matches really well.
I should ask, did you use cheap rattle can primer or did you get something decent (SEM or something equivalent)? While I haven't experienced it personally, I've read and have been told that Krylon (or something equivalent) is not good to use under good automotive paint. However, if you may end up painting the car down the road anyway, perhaps it won't really matter....
Just make sure you use good painting technique and you should be fine. And if you screw it up? It's not that big of a deal. Wait for it to dry, strip it off, and try again. As for the paint shop not getting the color right, well, I guess test the heck out of the paint before laying it down on the car. As I stated, because that section of the car gets little sun, it should be close to the original factory color, which unless the formula of the new paint causes a change in color, it shouldn't be too hard to match based on the original formula. My local shop mixed up several rattle cans of Frosted Teal Poly for me and it matches really well.
I should ask, did you use cheap rattle can primer or did you get something decent (SEM or something equivalent)? While I haven't experienced it personally, I've read and have been told that Krylon (or something equivalent) is not good to use under good automotive paint. However, if you may end up painting the car down the road anyway, perhaps it won't really matter....
70Tom
Senior Member
Oh, also, don't forget to "scuff" the section that is currently painted to get adhesion for the new paint. Use a very fine grit. You certainly don't want to leave behind any sanding lines/swirls.
cm23uoc
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Good Point, talking Euro paint Systems though now, the rattle can primer will most likely go up if shot over with professional paint Systems, always try it out on some metal Piece and let all dry thorougly, in some cases it takes a few days to come up, worst case I once had was two months later or so. If the actual rattle can Color is not sanded down to the primer These Problems rarely come up to my experience with DDs.
That said I never left this stuff on underneath when having it painted for a couple thousand professionally, not worth the risk.
CanCritter
Senior Member
still have to sand the primer yet,,,is just rattle can....did my truck with 2 stage epoxy primer...that's the way to go realy as that stuffs the bomb...l used a high build primer and it works great and recommend it to anyone doing a full paint job...the rattle can stuff is just a band aid till l can get a proper paint job...
will try to stay under the body line...still have a cpl of inchs to play with there...ah well bottom line rust is gone....
will try to stay under the body line...still have a cpl of inchs to play with there...ah well bottom line rust is gone....
CanCritter
Senior Member
another day in the pit....decided to try and take control of dust down there now that lm done most of the dirty stuff....and now that the rust has been delt with can button up rest of undercoating re wheel wells and put gas tank back in and bumper back on...also still fighting with center caps...not quite acceptable yet
all areas that were replaced were hit with rust bullet then rockgarded...also hit top of inner wheel well lips with rustbullet as well
all areas that were replaced were hit with rust bullet then rockgarded...also hit top of inner wheel well lips with rustbullet as well
CanCritter
Senior Member
You're not getting my jack dusty are you....? It's a sensitive piece of equipment
CanCritter
Senior Member
You're not getting my jack dusty are you....? It's a sensitive piece of equipment
oil...grease...dust...mud....paint....rocker guard and cookie crumbs.....
The cookies were a setup!!! A trap!
Distract him with cookies while you raid the parts warehouse all part of my evil plan....now if I could just remember how to rebuild his carb....
CanCritter
Senior Member
behind the man theres always a evil woman with a bakein tray.........
k....now when l go to finish my quarters will rockguard the bottom part of it but the part that l went over some what would one use for sandpaper...ie....how fine do l go to eliminate any scratchs...tips most welcome...
k....now when l go to finish my quarters will rockguard the bottom part of it but the part that l went over some what would one use for sandpaper...ie....how fine do l go to eliminate any scratchs...tips most welcome...
Better clean up your shop, was talk'n to Paul and told him where to find your restoration page. Who knows, maybe you could talk him into having an apprentice.
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