Detailing Engine Mopar Turquoise - Specifically

Watch out for POR 15 products...in my case,either it was a mislabel or it didn't hold color well under heat, but when I got Chrysler blue, it wound up looking more like turquoise after a few weeks of driving.

I wasn't happy with the 2-part epoxy Turquoise I got from Eastwood, either.

I've heard more bad than good on the POR 15 engine paint. I've put some of it on improper application, but I'll bet @Mr C knows how to read directions. Eastwood stuff is kind of hit or miss for me. Lots of big promises, but not always big delivery. I'll say that @commando1 can read directions too, so that really writes those two products off.

I've never heard anything bad on Bill Hirsch paint. I've never tried it though. The only downside is it's all mail order and not cheap.

My personal favorite is the Duplicolor engine enamels. Gotta prime first (again, following directions) and I've been happy with the color and performance. Nice thing is I can buy it from Amazon or down at the local NAPA or Advance Auto with no nonsense. Cheap, easy, and good always works for me.

I've tried other engine enamels with so-so results. Rustoleum engine enamels were the worst, although I love their other paints. VHT is OK, but questionable colors. Their high temp paints work well.
 
As someone who's getting back into the hobby, I wanted to say thanks. Lots of good information on this thread!
 
One more option for those not wanting to spend a $18 + shipping on Bill Hirsch paint....On my '62 Imperial 413 I'm using Duplicolor DE1618 Detroit Diesel Alpine Green..... its close to the Hirsch Paint....a little lighter and greener, but only about $7 a can.
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1966 Dodge pickup truck color, Desert Turquoise matched my '67 Newport 383 perfectly. The paint shop had a color chip we used to compare on a valve cover. I painted a new oil pan I got for the car, using the acrylic enamel, diluted with generic enamel "thinner" from Home Depot, in a Preval sprayer. Flowed out smooth with a hard shine. The OEM engine paint was probably a plain enamel, rather than acrylic enamel, but the color matched.

The GM version of DD Alpine Green is nothing close to any Chrysler engine paint, but the Hirsch version might be. Just as Krylon "Chevy Blue" is way too dark and very akin to their "Ford Blue". Possibly something about "licensing"?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
On Canadian cars the transmission was attached when the engine was painted. So it had overspray on it too.
 
On Canadian cars the transmission was attached when the engine was painted. So it had overspray on it too.

Most times they were, but I own two exceptions - my 66 T&C wagon which was a dealer demo early build and not built in Windsor, and my 66 Monaco 440 4-speed which was an early-ish Windsor build. It was a special order car where the motor was assembled at the police motor assembly area. The transmissions on both cars are colour free.
 
Most times they were, but I own two exceptions - my 66 T&C wagon which was a dealer demo early build and not built in Windsor, and my 66 Monaco 440 4-speed which was an early-ish Windsor build. It was a special order car where the motor was assembled at the police motor assembly area. The transmissions on both cars are colour free.

Further proof that in restoration, restore the car as it was produced rather than "by convention" of accumulated knowledge of what was allegedly supposed to happen. MUCH depended upon the individual line workers, on the particular shift, in the particular plant, by observation,

But the engine paint on the bellhousing raises another question. When were the assembled engines painted? After assembly and before they went to be "run-in" at the engine plant? It would make sense to have this panting done before they went through the "run-in" stand, then "crank test", the "cold engine" test, and the "hot test" once up to temp. Which might mean the paint on the bellhousing was more of an "inspection stamp" by an inspector to indicate that all of the bellhousing bolts (plus crank to flex plate/flywheel bolts) were tightened "to specs"?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
IMO. The beauty of owning a “C” body is they ain’t investments. Galen Govier probably hasn’t walked down “C” body row in Carlisle. Ever! I don’t lose sleep over the correct plating on my brake booster or carb and the little dabs of paint all over the chassis. I’ll leave that for the GYC guy.
I just drive it. If I want to go fast I fire up the new BMW or Hemi.
 
I used the Mopar paint.. Depending if you use flash or no flash on your camera indoor or outdoor, the color looks different no matter what.
My trans had no signs of overspray.
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Mopar paint as well. Just got another can a couple of weeks ago. It matched what I painted 10 years ago. The cap doesn’t match the paint.
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Years ago, I had got a particle board shelf unit for the shop and decided to paint it. The Chrysler Hemi Orange was available, so I got a few cans of that. It had so much clear in it that it took waayy too much paint to get coverages. Plus the particle board soaked it right up! By that time, too deep to stop, so more paint finally got it "oranged".

CBODY67
 
One more option for those not wanting to spend a $18 + shipping on Bill Hirsch paint....On my '62 Imperial 413 I'm using Duplicolor DE1618 Detroit Diesel Alpine Green..... its close to the Hirsch Paint....a little lighter and greener, but only about $7 a can. View attachment 279094
I ended up using Ford Green, Duplicolor 1617 .......matches the Bill Hirsch paint and covers well......had to go to a few auto parts store to find this color, but I'm pretty happy with the result.
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@cbarge , tell me more about your battery topper. (I am assuming it is a topper due to the battery sticker poking out)
How does it fit? Are you using a group 24 or 27 battery, and did you have to find the right profile vents on the battery to put the cap on?
I am looking to do something like that. I really don't want to spend $300 + on a "period correct" battery at this point. I believe the caps are still around $100, plus the right size battery at $120? I guess I am not too far off.
Thanks
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I ended up using Ford Green, Duplicolor 1617 .......matches the Bill Hirsch paint and covers well......had to go to a few auto parts store to find this color, but I'm pretty happy with the result.View attachment 280422 View attachment 280423

Thanks Giant, I used the Ford and found it a match and much cheaper! This is my original paint valve cover. Half old, half Ford paint.

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@cbarge , tell me more about your battery topper. (I am assuming it is a topper due to the battery sticker poking out)
How does it fit? Are you using a group 24 or 27 battery, and did you have to find the right profile vents on the battery to put the cap on?
I am looking to do something like that. I really don't want to spend $300 + on a "period correct" battery at this point. I believe the caps are still around $100, plus the right size battery at $120? I guess I am not too far off.
Thanks
View attachment 280484
Group 24 battery.Fits well no issues.
Group 27 would have been nice but the owner of the company says he is considering it.
Legendary Battery Toppers : Reproduction Battery
 
Hey folks,

I don't want to assume anything but is this bracket black? The one bolted to the cylinder head behind the alternator. It appears natural with engine over spray.
Should the alternator pulley be black or CAD plated?
Thanks!

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Hey folks,

I don't want to assume anything but is this bracket black? The one bolted to the cylinder head behind the alternator. It appears natural with engine over spray.
Should the alternator pulley be black or CAD plated?
Thanks!

View attachment 314856

That bracket is painted black on both of my '66 300s. The pulley is also painted black.
 
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