Disc brake kit

mopar Joe 65

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up north, utah
Has anyone used the Leeds disc brake conversion kit ? It looks like they have everything to convert from drums to discs? I’ve had enough with these drum brakes I think it would stop better if I drug my feet.
 
I have not used them. But i am looking to do the wilwood conversion sooner rather than later.

Are you sure your Master isn't somehow rusted up? I have no problem locking all 4 wheels with the drum brakes!?
 
Has anyone used the Leeds disc brake conversion kit ? It looks like they have everything to convert from drums to discs? I’ve had enough with these drum brakes I think it would stop better if I drug my feet.
I asked the same question with no reply. I was interested in knowing if you're able to use your stock 14" steel wheels. Try them and let us know.
 
IMHO, while I've never used one of those kits, from what I've seen and read here, they seem to be an expensive alternative with a mishmash of parts compared to sourcing the Mopar parts. GM calipers with Ford rotors type of thing. Spacers for the wheel bearings etc.. They seem to work out sometimes, but sometimes they don't. I have read of customer support being abysmal for some of the kits too. Then there's replacement of wear items down the road. Example, what pads do you buy for the GM calipers and Ford rotors? What bearings? Then a lot of these places go belly up or don't stock/support their kits that they no longer sell and on and on. That's just my opinion though... and I wouldn't go that route, but YMMV. Others may tell you the kits are great..

Read through this... (Gary made a couple rookie mistakes, so ignore them) Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
 
I used it. Purchased through PST. I did not use the 14" wheels with the kit as it lightly rubbed the caliper vent tube. It could have been 'tweaked' to fit, but I wasn't comfortable with how close the caliper was to the wheel. I ended up not using the kit as delivered as I did not like the way the booster mounted an inch or so away from the firewall with an adaptor plate. Brakes work fine, but it wasn't obvious where/what replacement parts I'll need in the future.
 
I have the kit currently on the floor of my garage for the rear brakes. I bought it through Summit Racing. I have not installed it yet, but should have it in the car in hopefully the next few weeks or month? I'll let you know my thoughts once it's in. The kit I have requires a 15" wheel (which Alvah already had).

Regarding replacement parts, LEED has them available on their website.
 
Regarding replacement parts, LEED has them available on their website.

But, the question is how long is Leed going to be around? These companies come and go... and then there's price. I'll bet that I can buy the same pads at the local parts store for a lot less with not more than a day or two wait if they have to order.
 
brake.jpg

This is the rear kit I got. If I were converting the front from drum to disk I would look for replacement MOPAR parts or Wilwoods. I already had front disks so I just put on new Raybestos pads and rotors from Rock Auto.
 
But, the question is how long is Leed going to be around? These companies come and go... and then there's price. I'll bet that I can buy the same pads at the local parts store for a lot less with not more than a day or two wait if they have to order.
That is the point I was trying to make. I know these are off the shelf rotors, calipers, and pads, but I'd rather have a choice to purchase them anywhere. Everything came in a generic white box, the calipers were labeled "Mustang caliper", but I'd just prefer they give a vehicle year, make, and manufacturer for future replacement parts.
 
Thanks guys for all your input, I would probably just go with the manual brakes on it but I thought they would work a lot better ? I put new drums and all the hardware on the front and new hardware on the rear and had all 4 drums turned , I was surprised the new drums on the front were out of round. I put a new dual mc on it and adjusted the brakes probably a little tight and bleed them several times but they just feel hard when depressed? If I go with a kit I have 15” wheels on it.
 
I would also like to ask someone if I try to source mopar parts what years and models will fit my 65 fury ? With a dual mc and power booster do I have to source a different brake pedal?
 
I just sent back a SSBC kit because I could not get the spacing to work with the rotors and calipers without machining the brackets. I bought the Wilwood 6 piston kit for the front and 4 piston Dynalites in the rear.
 
Has anyone used the Leeds disc brake conversion kit ? It looks like they have everything to convert from drums to discs? I’ve had enough with these drum brakes I think it would stop better if I drug my feet.
I had my mechanic install the set on my 1965 Newport and he said it was easy without any issues. The brakes work great, money well spent.
 
Has anyone used the Leeds disc brake conversion kit ? It looks like they have everything to convert from drums to discs? I’ve had enough with these drum brakes I think it would stop better if I drug my feet.
We installed Leeds in '66 300 - I would recommend trying a proportioning valve from later model chrysler that had drums in the rear and disc in front. We have been driving on them without an issue but I think there are better options - we did have to make adjustments to the pedal connection bar to make it fit correctly.
 
Thanks guys for all your input, I would probably just go with the manual brakes on it but I thought they would work a lot better ? I put new drums and all the hardware on the front and new hardware on the rear and had all 4 drums turned , I was surprised the new drums on the front were out of round. I put a new dual mc on it and adjusted the brakes probably a little tight and bleed them several times but they just feel hard when depressed? If I go with a kit I have 15” wheels on it.

I did a similar thing since the booster is made out of unobtanium. The hard brake pedal was due to the lines at the master cylinder being swapped. The front brakes must be connected to the front port on the master cylinder.
 
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