Dragging calipers on my '73 conversion

Well I have a doughnut and a cup of coffee in me now, time to check out the push rod. The damn thing popped out again. At least it was what I was anticipating, it is looking like Goldie is going to be out of commission for a while. Now a shipment back to the re-builder.

It all makes more sense now. I had to use a big hammer to set that pushrod, I thought there was no way that it would pop out again. Now my initial success makes sense, because it would have been seated properly originally.
 
Well the good news is that you have a handle on this
And you think I'm a funny guy :lol:
My lovely wife may not always agree :p
 
I tried once again to set the push rod in place with a hammer. No luck, too much flex. I am at home in my garage where I don't have all the tools to make the removal easier, so I added some spacers, of nuts I had on hand, and adjusted the push rod to 1". I should be good for the 12 mile drive to my shop.
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If it is any consolation I have to change eight wheels on my trailer, my back is already complaining and I have not even walked out there yet.
 
Yes your job is by far worse Dave. All I really have to do is stand on my head while trying to reach those 4 nuts up under the dash. A pneumatic wrench makes the job pretty easy, especially when I already know the combination of sockets and wobble extension to use.
 
OK - glad to hear that the booster again is the issue... and whether or not the rebuilder instructed you to use the hammer, I am glad too you're sending it back. The hammer repair or adjustment on domething as critical as brakes is not something I really like, if you get my drift.

If you have a decent enough relationship with your rebuilder, you may wish to respectfully request of him to exchange the booster since it may be something that will repeat itself. You've had enough pulling your hair out over this. He can get the replacement on its' way to you now to minimize your downtime.

And while practise makes perfect on any job, yanking the booster on a 65 or 66 is a nasty job with at least 8 extensions and standing on your head!! Another reason to ask for a replacement booster. This should be the last time you need to do that.
 
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OK - glad to hear that the booster again is the issue... and whether or not the rebuilder instructed you to use the hammer, I am glad too you're sending it back. The hammer repair or adjustment on domething as critical as brakes is not something I really like, if you get my drift.

If you have a decent enough relationship with your rebuilder, you may wish to respectfully request of him to exchange the booster since it may be something that will repeat itself. You've had enough pulling your hair out over this. He can get the replacement on its' way to you now to minimize your downtime.

I sent the booster I located myself, to have it rebuilt. You comment however, raises a question I can have with him, if this booster is indeed rebuildable. I don't even know if he would have one in stock since it is pretty rare.
 
This seems like an appropriate pop up from my FB feed from 3 years ago.

Do you have have one of those day when even inanimate objects are mocking you.



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Yes your job is by far worse Dave. All I really have to do is stand on my head while trying to reach those 4 nuts up under the dash. A pneumatic wrench makes the job pretty easy, especially when I already know the combination of sockets and wobble extension to use.
This would make my back complain also.
 
I sent the booster I located myself, to have it rebuilt. You comment however, raises a question I can have with him, if this booster is indeed rebuildable. I don't even know if he would have one in stock since it is pretty rare.

Well, it never hurts to ask. At least he should be able to indicate confidently whether it is rebuildable or not.
 
If it is any consolation I have to change eight wheels on my trailer, my back is already complaining and I have not even walked out there yet.
My, my... you haven't had that very long... I guess you really have driven the wheels off it.
 
Made it to the shop safely. I think I could challenge anyone to a brake booster removal race.

FYI I find this the most efficient. 1/2 closed end ratchet wrench, to remove master. 1/2 deep socket, attached to 4" wobbler extention, attached to pneumatic ratchet; to remove booster. 5/8 deep socket and 3/4 open to remove brake pedal. Done. :)
 
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I would suggest sending BOTH booster and master to your rebuilder to have him determine if there's any other mismatch issue...

I am wondering if there's a "too long travel" issue in the MC that would cause the booster to pop out. Just thinking out loud.
 
I would suggest sending BOTH booster and master to your rebuilder to have him determine if there's any other mismatch issue...

I am wondering if there's a "too long travel" issue in the MC that would cause the booster to pop out. Just thinking out loud.

Great suggestion Ross thanks
 
I will be shipping the booster back to the rebuilder. He is really baffled by it too. He said so long as the master is not grabbing the push rod (which it is not) there is definitely something wrong with the booster, and he is very interested to see what that problem is.

He said there is no reason to ship the master with it. Even if the master is not recovering as quickly as the booster, the push rod should never work its way out. It was a good suggestion Ross and I was glad I asked the question, because I would wonder if the master was some how causing this, but apparently not.
 
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