Dragging rear brake shoes, drum brakes 11x2.5

[Blue 300]

Okay since installing the green bearing and having everything apart it seemed like a good idea to replace all the brakes.
New wheel cylinders (O'Reillys)
new shoes (auto zone)
new springs (auto zone)
new drums (summit racing)
new hyd hose and new steel line on axle housing

drivers side works fine
pass side climbs to 350 degrees in just 45 minutes of in town driving

other three drums measure 120 - 140 degrees

I have had the new drums turned
even had the axle trued. The flange face had a .008 wobble in it.
Still cant get this brake to work right.
any ideas out there?

I have re-replaced the shoes, wheel cyl, and even tried a heavy duty spring set (dorman h131)
I even turned the adjuster wheel backwards in an effort to keep the shoes from self adjusting and making contact but that did nt work. I'm beginning to feel that it is a hydraulic issue.

I need to take this car on a 8 hour trip up to St Ignace for the show on the 27th

 

[68plymouth383]

Make sure you installed the shoes correctly. If you put them on wrong it'll do what you're describing. Also it's possible your master cylinder isn't releasing pressure.

 

[commando1]

So you are saying only the right rear is dragging?
Want to be clear, first.

Dragging rear brake shoes, drum brakes 11x2.5

drivers side works fine

Will make a big difference in trying to TS this situation.

 

[Blue 300]

Correct, only the right rear is dragging. The left rear works fine. Swapped drums side to side, problem stays on right side.

Installed another new wheel cyl, no difference.
Installed the old original whl cyl, no difference.

adjusted the brakes in so drum is very loose on shoes, no difference.

 

[bluefury361]

Remove the right rear drum and look for a witness mark on the outside edge of the shoe or on the drum where it may contact the shoe.

Also, I'd loose the green bearings and go back to the correct tapered bearings. (unless all your doing is drag racing).

 

[70bigblockdodge]

What does.the wear pattern look like?

 

[commando1]

On the set of brake linings on the right side, are they both the same size or different sizes?

 

[Blue 300]

BlueFury, you might be on to something there. I did notice a smooth shiny mark on the outer most edge of the drum, but there seems to be no mark on the shoe at all.
I used an angle grinder to round off the edge of the pad but that didn't fix anything.
70BigBlock: I only have about 50 miles on these and there is no discernible pattern yet. However I used my laser pyrometer to find that the center of rear shoe is the hottest point, and not the edge that I suspected and rounded off.
Commando, yes I have the smaller primary shoe on the front and the longer on the rear.
I really appreciate the help guys.

 

[commando1]

Try blowing out the brake line from the Tee-block to the right drum.

 

[saylor]

ya for the issue to stay on the RR corner, it almost has to be between the rear brake feed line t block splitter mounted @ rear axle to the RR corner yes?

if it was the line feeding both the rears I think it would be both rear sides doing the same thing at the same time

$.02

 

[Bryan]

Maybe I missed it, but what year is it. If it is a slab, you might want to convert to the 69 and up adjusters. The 65-68 had issues.. especially on the rear that could cause them to over self adjust. Mine has the same issue. I have the redesigned 69 adjusters and will install them when I overhaul the rear brakes shortly. I already installed the front ones.

 

[1970cat]

make sure the arc of the shoes is correct. make sure there isn't a gap or high spot in the middle of the shoes when held inside the drum.

 

[Blue 300]

I didn't have time last night to blow out the line, but will try that tonight.
Bryan, can I use the same shoes with the new style adjuster? My shoes do have the small peg at the bottom already.
I will check the shoes against the drum too, I wonder if a few thousandths clearance is to much or if they should fit exact.
Also I measured the axle housing width from edge of the backing plates and I got 1/8' larger measurement at the bottom vs the top. I wonder if this is enough to be concerned with. Maybe the backing plate is warped or the axle housing is bent?

 

[bluefury361]

I didn't have time last night to blow out the line, but will try that tonight.
Bryan, can I use the same shoes with the new style adjuster? My shoes do have the small peg at the bottom already.
I will check the shoes against the drum too, I wonder if a few thousandths clearance is to much or if they should fit exact.
Also I measured the axle housing width from edge of the backing plates and I got 1/8' larger measurement at the bottom vs the top. I wonder if this is enough to be concerned with. Maybe the backing plate is warped or the axle housing is bent?

Or the bearing not properly seated......? Can happen with green bearings. Also verify your not using a 2 1/4" wide drum with 2 1/2" shoes.

 

[Bryan]

I didn't have time last night to blow out the line, but will try that tonight.
Bryan, can I use the same shoes with the new style adjuster? My shoes do have the small peg at the bottom already.
I will check the shoes against the drum too, I wonder if a few thousandths clearance is to much or if they should fit exact.
Also I measured the axle housing width from edge of the backing plates and I got 1/8' larger measurement at the bottom vs the top. I wonder if this is enough to be concerned with. Maybe the backing plate is warped or the axle housing is bent?

As long as the peg came with the brake shoes, or you have some, the conversion is just a straight swap install. You need the little peg and shoes with the peg hole in (which most have now) them because that is where the adjuster plate mounts. Link below is the style kit you need. Part stores should have them. I bought mine from Rock Auto and just did a search for 70 Chrysler.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-Rear...969|Make:Chrysler&hash=item463b9f2dab&vxp=mtr

 

[Blue 300]

Bryan, While I dont think that is causing my problem (drums are still loose when I remove them hot) I'm all in for a good upgrade. thanks!

 

[Blue 300]

Okay so I'm pretty sure I got this whipped. I used some (Chrysler) blue paint to spray the inside of the old drum last night. Put it on and ran it a few 10-12 revolutions. Then removed it and found that the only contact seemed to be evenly across the bottom edge of the secondary pad. The blue streaks extended up about 2 1/2 inches. So I grabbed my trusty angle grinder with an 80grit roloc disc and ground that area down and reshaped the pad. (asbestos free shoes) So far So good. Temp ran up to 188 degrees last night after a few panic stops, but stayed down to around 107 on the morning commute. I think it just needs some break-in miles now.

 

[commando1]

Amazing. I have never seen this problem and remedy before.
Nice sleuthing.

 

[bluefury361]

It used to be standard procedure to arch new brake shoes/linings to match the drums. I had a machine that did just that.
It was a mandatory step when working on cars of the 20's & 30's.

 

[commando1]

It used to be standard procedure to arch new brake shoes/linings to match the drums. I had a machine that did just that.
It was a mandatory step when working on cars of the 20's & 30's.

So you can remember back that far?
I wasn't around then...