When they say that this kit cannot be used with the factory magnum wheels, why is that? Is there an offset mismatch or is there a lip inside the back of the magnums? I assume one could use aftermarket magnum wheels in a 15" without issue?
ECI c - body brake kit
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
When they say that this kit cannot be used with the factory magnum wheels, why is that? Is there an offset mismatch or is there a lip inside the back of the magnums? I assume one could use aftermarket magnum wheels in a 15" without issue?
With most conversions, the calipers rub on 14s, but 15s usually clear.
saylor
Senior Member
presto! no more drum brakes:
Awesome! Looks good!
saylor
Senior Member
it really is bolt on, with simple garden tools 
things ive learned so far.
they said put a jack under the lower arm and raise until the top arm comes up off its rubber stopper,,even with that, the steering arm got a little out of line with all the bolts out - it was easy to move back into place though.
we did one side at a time.
the wheel studs are different than stock 14" ones... I actually got to use the stock lug nuts off my 2010 nitro on here after all - same thread pattern as the hubs here. I kept them after upgrading those wheels, glad I had them handy, or the rotors would not be on there right now..
paint the bracket before installing - it is raw steel. Caliper paint at your discretion
the lines they sent me from caliper to frame are too short.
still haven't dealt with the booster and MC end of this yet. the passenger side drum didn't want to come off and we lost a lot of time.
Would you believe the old stuff is stamped 68 , ,, amazing that brakes could last 45 years.
things ive learned so far.
they said put a jack under the lower arm and raise until the top arm comes up off its rubber stopper,,even with that, the steering arm got a little out of line with all the bolts out - it was easy to move back into place though.
we did one side at a time.
the wheel studs are different than stock 14" ones... I actually got to use the stock lug nuts off my 2010 nitro on here after all - same thread pattern as the hubs here. I kept them after upgrading those wheels, glad I had them handy, or the rotors would not be on there right now..
paint the bracket before installing - it is raw steel. Caliper paint at your discretion
the lines they sent me from caliper to frame are too short.
still haven't dealt with the booster and MC end of this yet. the passenger side drum didn't want to come off and we lost a lot of time.
Would you believe the old stuff is stamped 68 , ,, amazing that brakes could last 45 years.
saylor
Senior Member
this ECI kit bracket looks a little different than the scarebird kit. I cant tell from the pictures for sure, but the scarebird looks almost like stamp steel. the scarebird kit for sure has nuts tack welded on where the calipers mount.
the ECI kit is better than that in my opinion. It is 1/4" (or more) steel plate that has been CNC 'd or whatever. The edges are all finished, and it is threaded where the calipers bolt on.
also the ECI kit has aluminum CNC hubs.
also sent with loaded calipers.
I do agree with the general idea that if you know what you are doing - you could hack together your own system. I don't know what im doing, and I want to stop when I push the big pedal in the middle.
ill pay the money for the kit.
the ECI kit is better than that in my opinion. It is 1/4" (or more) steel plate that has been CNC 'd or whatever. The edges are all finished, and it is threaded where the calipers bolt on.
also the ECI kit has aluminum CNC hubs.
also sent with loaded calipers.
I do agree with the general idea that if you know what you are doing - you could hack together your own system. I don't know what im doing, and I want to stop when I push the big pedal in the middle.
ill pay the money for the kit.
saylor
Senior Member
driver side bracket and raw hub
saylor
Senior Member
eci brackets freshly primed up
Nice job. I agree that the kit is well worth the money to have all the right hardware, etc.
saylor
Senior Member
stormer - do you have a pic or P/Ns of the booster and MC they sent you ?
View attachment 11624
Looks good. nice job. Here is pictures of my scarebird install. .25 thick cnc steel.
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saylor
Senior Member
hell ya that looks good
saylor
Senior Member
whats the master cylinder and booster look like that you have?
saylor
Senior Member
thats some good lookin work there ^^ Jake.
i just talked to ralph @ eci - he said my existing drum power booster is good, and just bolt on a dual MC disc/drum model from a mid-late 70s chrysler that fits, with 1 1/32 bore, and rock on.
That is sweet! The ECI kit has been easy all in all so far.
Ill get the MC this week, and probably bleed the system out this weekend.
i just talked to ralph @ eci - he said my existing drum power booster is good, and just bolt on a dual MC disc/drum model from a mid-late 70s chrysler that fits, with 1 1/32 bore, and rock on.
That is sweet! The ECI kit has been easy all in all so far.
Ill get the MC this week, and probably bleed the system out this weekend.
saylor
Senior Member
. .. i havent been in there yet . .. thanks for the heads up on the pushrod adjustment.... where is that adjustment made / can you describe more what you did exactly ? thanks ! - Saylor
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The rod from the booster to the M/C has a threaded adjustment on the M/C end. You turn it in and out to lengthen and shorten it as nec.
Another question to the experts.
I had to remove the rubber thingie in my new M/C for the end of the rod to fit in it.
Should I have not removed it??
Another question to the experts.
I had to remove the rubber thingie in my new M/C for the end of the rod to fit in it.
Should I have not removed it??
The rod from the booster to the M/C has a threaded adjustment on the M/C end. You turn it in and out to lengthen and shorten it as nec.
Another question to the experts.
I had to remove the rubber thingie in my new M/C for the end of the rod to fit in it.
Should I have not removed it??
Is it a m/c that is NOS or is it multi vehicle? Possible smaller diameter pushrod. I hope it is not used as a spacer, you think it would compress over time and fall apart!
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