68plymouth383
Senior Member
I'd like to read that if your able to find it. I drive my car, so reliability is very important to me.
ECI c - body brake kit
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I'll log back in there and try to dig it up.
Unfortunately like all forums, the search engine sucks and it was also several years ago.
Unfortunately like all forums, the search engine sucks and it was also several years ago.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nothing.
And if it ain't on the internet, it ain't true. lol....
And if it ain't on the internet, it ain't true. lol....
superfragl
Active Member
Finally had a chance to do final assembly. Here`s a short video of the 14" wheel mounted.
[video=youtube_share;7WBHRPD-C1A]http://youtu.be/7WBHRPD-C1A[/video]
As I expected, the total amount spent on this conversion was less than $200. That includes m/c, calipers, hoses, pads, brackets, rotors.
I had to turn the original hubs down in order to accept the rotors, turn the lug bolts down (the part that has no threads and is sticking out of the hub) and I had to get longer spindle bolts to compensate for brackets thickness.
If someone wants the CAD files for the brackets - let me know. However, I cannot be responsible if something does not fit. It worked for me though.
[video=youtube_share;7WBHRPD-C1A]http://youtu.be/7WBHRPD-C1A[/video]
As I expected, the total amount spent on this conversion was less than $200. That includes m/c, calipers, hoses, pads, brackets, rotors.
I had to turn the original hubs down in order to accept the rotors, turn the lug bolts down (the part that has no threads and is sticking out of the hub) and I had to get longer spindle bolts to compensate for brackets thickness.
If someone wants the CAD files for the brackets - let me know. However, I cannot be responsible if something does not fit. It worked for me though.
Have you had this brake setup on the road yet? Will the CAD file include the 1/8" change in the hole position?Thanks
superfragl
Active Member
Not yet. And I don`t expect it to be on the road for at least another year - the car is apart and going under complete rebuild.
Since my budget is tight, the process is not going quick. I plan on putting the stub frame back on the car this weekend.
Sure I will update the CAD file with the corrected data.
Since my budget is tight, the process is not going quick. I plan on putting the stub frame back on the car this weekend.
Sure I will update the CAD file with the corrected data.
I know this is old, but.....Saylor, did you use your old power drum pushrod or did you have to buy a different one?Did you have to make any adjustments to the length in order to get the pedal to work correctly? Thanks
saylor
Senior Member
hey -
i used the stock drum pushrod + stock booster what was already on there for drum brakes. i did not adjust the niblet on the end of the pushrod.
in this post back some pages somewhere i listed the MC i bought.. i seem to remember there were different pushrods (E,F, - labeled by letter??) and i could not determine which one so i went with what was in there.
i also seem to remember my pedal fell a bit, and i had to adjust the little brake light control thing under the pedal - it screws in / out for some adjustment.
still the best upgrade ive ever done to my car.
- saylor
i used the stock drum pushrod + stock booster what was already on there for drum brakes. i did not adjust the niblet on the end of the pushrod.
in this post back some pages somewhere i listed the MC i bought.. i seem to remember there were different pushrods (E,F, - labeled by letter??) and i could not determine which one so i went with what was in there.
i also seem to remember my pedal fell a bit, and i had to adjust the little brake light control thing under the pedal - it screws in / out for some adjustment.
still the best upgrade ive ever done to my car.
- saylor
Thank you! I am in the parts gathering mode right now.
Blackmopar
Member
im about done with my ECI installation but the M/C fittings are giving me a problem - Im using the dual they supply in the kit. The Front fitting is 1/2-20 thread and im good, but is the rear fitting a 9/16-18 or 9/16-20 ?
I have 9/16-18 inverted flare fittings but they dont seem to want to thread properly
But 9/16-20 seems like an odd size for an OE master cylinder
thanks
I have 9/16-18 inverted flare fittings but they dont seem to want to thread properly
But 9/16-20 seems like an odd size for an OE master cylinder
thanks
Blackmopar
Member
I was able to verify with ECI so I figured to post for information
According to them, the Chrysler OE dual master cylinder that they provide in the kit is 9/16-20 thread pitch for rear brake reservoir and 1/2-20 thread pitch for front brake reservoir
According to them, the Chrysler OE dual master cylinder that they provide in the kit is 9/16-20 thread pitch for rear brake reservoir and 1/2-20 thread pitch for front brake reservoir
BillGrissom
Active Member
Blackmopar,
Thanks for posting the details. In addition to the thread of the tube nut, always verify the tubing size of the female inv flare port. Most are for 3/16" OD tube, but you do see 1/4" tube in early cars w/ the single reservoir MC (1966- I think). In that case, a 3/16" tube nut might screw in fine but the tube end won't seal properly. After ~2000, most U.S. cars changed to "bubble flare", so anyone using newer parts should note. The tube size is stated as metric (5 mm, I recall), but I have made 3/16" dbl flares on it and worked fine, so close enough to 3/16" tubing (or same). BTW, one can make bubble flares w/ a normal dbl flare tool (see youtube) if you care to use a 2000+ MC.
I used an MC for a 95-99 ABS "cloud car" (Breeze, Status, ...) on my 3 old Mopars (incl 65 Newport), about the last year for dbl flare ports. ABS MC's have just 2 ports, otherwise you must plug unused ports.
Thanks for posting the details. In addition to the thread of the tube nut, always verify the tubing size of the female inv flare port. Most are for 3/16" OD tube, but you do see 1/4" tube in early cars w/ the single reservoir MC (1966- I think). In that case, a 3/16" tube nut might screw in fine but the tube end won't seal properly. After ~2000, most U.S. cars changed to "bubble flare", so anyone using newer parts should note. The tube size is stated as metric (5 mm, I recall), but I have made 3/16" dbl flares on it and worked fine, so close enough to 3/16" tubing (or same). BTW, one can make bubble flares w/ a normal dbl flare tool (see youtube) if you care to use a 2000+ MC.
I used an MC for a 95-99 ABS "cloud car" (Breeze, Status, ...) on my 3 old Mopars (incl 65 Newport), about the last year for dbl flare ports. ABS MC's have just 2 ports, otherwise you must plug unused ports.
Reviving this thread 'cuz more info...from what I can tell judging by the pics on both their site and what saylor and others have uploaded, ECI seems to use the Centric/FVP 12162025 rotors for the 1979-1981 Pontiac Firebird. These are the rear rotors, and of the selection that rockauto offers, these appear to be the only rear rotors that have a dual bolt pattern at all:
The reason I think these will work is because the dual bolt pattern seen above looks exactly the same as the one that I had drilled in my Durago BR5560 rotors that my dumb *** had bought, completely forgetting the fact that those were only drilled for the 4.75 inch bolt pattern. Just having the correct 4.5 inch bolt pattern drilled out alone cost more than buying a pair of the Centric rotors...including shipping. Ouch.
Rockauto and numerous other sites claim that the center hole diameter is 71.7 mm, however measuring this up with calipers the actual size is more like 70.91-92 mm - almost identical to the claimed center hole size of the Centric/FVP rotors at 70.8 mm. Not sure why the discrepancy. As far as I can tell, the shop didn't drill out the center hole, and a test fit on the ECI hub showed that it was very snug. As such, I'm confident that the Centric 12162025 rotors will fit this kit.
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