65Fury440
Senior Member
Yea I agree with this. I would use the electric pump for a primer/ booster, especially if it's a cheap pump. Did your old push rod mushroom? Shouldn't be that tough to replace.
Engine cuts out after 3 to 4 seconds of medium acceration
- Thread starter Zymurgy
- Start date
Yea I agree with this. I would use the electric pump for a primer/ booster, especially if it's a cheap pump. Did your old push rod mushroom? Shouldn't be that tough to replace.
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Agree X 3, I've been thinking this from the start.
Landyacht
Active Member
Is the fuel pump push rod actually stuck ? If I remember right, there should be a threaded hole right below where the fuel pump is located. It is capped off with a allen head type plug. That is where the push rod is removed and not from the opening for the fuel pump.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Yup, grab it with vise grips and yank.
I could not get a hold of it very well. My buddy tapped it in with a hammer. I didn't want to do this. I am really thinking I might try again.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
There is no pressure lube in or around pushrod so even if you scratch the bore its not the end of the world.
I picked up electric fuel pump #3, this is an Edelbrock. I also picked up another push rod for my mechanical fuel pump. If this pump doesn't work, I have a few ideas to try to get the stuck push rod out. Saturday will be the day wish me luck.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Good luck.
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Good luck from the Motor City!
saylor
Senior Member
wow. I freaking hate fuel issues. I did this whole dance too, like so many others. something to remember on the whole FP pushrod thing - the piece may be fine and the cam lobe that it rides on may be fried.
I tore it all out and put a block-off plate at the FP. I put a bead of RTV around it just for shits. I also ditched as much rubber fuel line as possible and used brake line all the way except where the flex points are - where it goes thru the frame rail and stuff.. but all metal line from where the FP connections are up to the carb anyways. I routed it behind the alt. get it away from your passenger side exhaust header/collector/flange if possible.
MY next step when all this fails - if I get to t-shoot this fun issue again on my own ride, is going to be rig a T fitting up by the carb and plumb a return line back to the tank or back to a canister or something and run about 30 PSI and let it flow.
I tore it all out and put a block-off plate at the FP. I put a bead of RTV around it just for shits. I also ditched as much rubber fuel line as possible and used brake line all the way except where the flex points are - where it goes thru the frame rail and stuff.. but all metal line from where the FP connections are up to the carb anyways. I routed it behind the alt. get it away from your passenger side exhaust header/collector/flange if possible.
MY next step when all this fails - if I get to t-shoot this fun issue again on my own ride, is going to be rig a T fitting up by the carb and plumb a return line back to the tank or back to a canister or something and run about 30 PSI and let it flow.
Hallelujah but I feel like an idiot. I was installing my fuel pump the correct way with a relay. I follow the steps perfectly except the very first line. Keep fuel pump relay in close proximity to the fuel pump. 12 feet is not close proximity. My hard wired it straight to the battery to test. It ran perfectly. Problem solved!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Took you long enough, Mike... 
That's great.
That's great.
Well it wasn't all me it appear the circuit breaker that came with the relay is bad or too small. Hooked everything up still does it. Changed the relay no difference so it has to be the breaker. I said screw it hard wired and enjoyed it for the first time in a long time.
:yaayy:
:yaayy:
rexus31
Senior Member
I thought you were going to address the fuel pump pushrod?
I couldn't get a hold of it. It will probably end up being a winter job. I think the only way to get it out is by removing the timing chain pan.
I don't live in California so I just lost 2 months of driving. Nothing but the necessities until winter.
rexus31
Senior Member
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how it is stuck. The cam drives it. Did you try turning it over (using the starter) with the fuel pump out? Did you remove the allen plug?
This is my theory the new push rod must have been too thick in the body. My friend literally tapped the rod in with a hammer. Now it is stuck and will not move. The fuel pump arm can't even move it, and you know how stiff they are.
The cam has moved it enough out or the rod never went that far in in the first place. When I ran it the first time with mechanical pump in place. I was hoping it would break free. I did not get a single drop of gas through the pump because the rod never moved.
The cam has moved it enough out or the rod never went that far in in the first place. When I ran it the first time with mechanical pump in place. I was hoping it would break free. I did not get a single drop of gas through the pump because the rod never moved.
rexus31
Senior Member
Wow. That should move freely in there. Mine usually drops right out. Once it is out, the bore may be oversized and be too lose for a proper push rod. You may need to sleeve it.
Yes it is a very odd and bad situation. Even my old rod I had to push it into place with some force. It never fell out like I have heard you and other talked about.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Just getting caught up on the thread here. I agree, this indicated that the timing chain cover has to come off to get that rod back out
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