Engine hoist

[commando1]

I've not seen it mentioned here but once now but I'm assuming you guyz all pull the hood like I do? One thing I did with my leveler that I'd suggest that any body should do that haz one or is thinking of getting one is the S**T CAN that crank handle and weld BOTH NUTZ ON BOTH ENDZ of that threaded rod and use your impact gun with the appropriate size impact socket and alwayz point the short protruding end toward the fire wall. You have no idea how fast you can tilt the engine WITH the trans using the impact. You only have to use it like that once to know you've done the right thing, Jer

I was wondering about that. The handle does look kind of flimsy and with 750+ lbs hanging on the end it can't be easy to turn.

Yes, all the handle does is give you blisters and bloody your knuckles. Like Jer, I welded a humongous nut to replace the crank and zip that leveler back and forth with a pneumatic ratchet.
After removing the hood and laying a sheet of plywood against the radiator, I can remove and install the engine with the tranny attached but only using the leveler to steeply angle the drive train down and in. To me the leveler was priceless.
Oh!!! And dropping the tranny cross member was required. Another AMHIK item.

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[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Really so simple that you'd think that someone would build the dam levelerz like that aye Stan? I did leave the crank handle on my engine stand tho' but Snap-on haz some pretty good 'chit and it does take about 4 revolutions to get 90* X2 for 180*

 

[tallhair]

the tilters are very handy. I pulled the 440 and 727 as a unit out of my RT in the garage and could NOT have done that w/o one of those.

 

[tbm3fan]

Since I am only pulling out an FE engine, and not the transmission, I use a carb flange plate. Perfectly safe with a 500-600 lb. Ford big block. Mustang Plus did a test and found that the plate lasted up to 4,493 pounds of stress before the hook popped through the top of the plate. The plate itself didn't even bend upwards until 3,000 pounds was on it. This was using standard carb studs on an aluminum intake.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

With the front end off pulling the engine/trans would be a piece of cake. I have always just pulled the hood, radiator, shrouds, accessories, wiring etc., unbolt everything, and pull the engine up and out some, transmission tail down. Then have some strong friends help lift the transmission tail over the front of the car and pull the hoist back. The weight doesn't seem as much as I expected. The older Chryslers seem to have plenty of play room in the engine bay.

I have only done A-Bodies maybe a dozen times and 1 E-body out and back in and have done this solo with no help. There is no removing the front end and they are tight.
My Polara is currently together and is a 440 so I'll be installing the engine without the transmission.


Alan

 

[vdk2010]

Looks like the leveler I bought already have the possibility to remove the crank and use an impact wrench to tilt.

 

[detmatt]

Since I am only pulling out an FE engine, and not the transmission, I use a carb flange plate. Perfectly safe with a 500-600 lb. Ford big block. Mustang Plus did a test and found that the plate lasted up to 4,493 pounds of stress before the hook popped through the top of the plate. The plate itself didn't even bend upwards until 3,000 pounds was on it. This was using standard carb studs on an aluminum intake.

That's interesting.

 

[Catfish]

This is a 440/727 combo I pulled out my imperial a few months back. I had the hood off, but I had no problem clearing the core support.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

This is a 440/727 combo I pulled out my imperial a few months back. I had the hood off, but I had no problem clearing the core support.

I'm not sure I have the headroom, the driveway drops off also complicating things.

I guess I could rool the car into the street?


Alan

 

[vdk2010]

Would definitely be a looker for your neighbourhood ;) It's not everyday life to see someone drop an engine into a car on the street ;)
In germany, it would not be allowed to "park" a not registered car on the street because of the insurance question if something would happen.

 

[patrick66]

The ideal way to remove or replace a Mopar engine is the same way the factory did it - bolted to the crossmember and raised into place. That's why I want a top-quality 2-post car lift. That makes engine swaps in Mopars soooo much nicer to do.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Would definitely be a looker for your neighbourhood ;) It's not everyday life to see someone drop an engine into a car on the street ;)
In germany, it would not be allowed to "park" a not registered car on the street because of the insurance question if something would happen.

Done a few of them in the street. This car IS registered and insured along with these being private streets I don't think I'd have a problem, long as the HOA doesn't drive by at the time.

I have done the bottom up install on an A-Body, might be a little more involved on a C-Body with the stub frame, it is outlined in the Service Manual though.

Alan

 

[Samplingman]

That's how I'm going to do my 300. Attach everything onto the stub and then lower the car into position, bolt up and done.

 

[Wildaugust]

Since I am only pulling out an FE engine, and not the transmission, I use a carb flange plate. Perfectly safe with a 500-600 lb. Ford big block. Mustang Plus did a test and found that the plate lasted up to 4,493 pounds of stress before the hook popped through the top of the plate. The plate itself didn't even bend upwards until 3,000 pounds was on it. This was using standard carb studs on an aluminum intake.

The lift plate gave out before the aluminum intake? :icon_surprised: I would've thought that the aluminum intake would have had a chunk ripped out of it well before 3000 lbs. That's what I've always imagined might happen when trying to lift a heavy engine attaching the hoist to the intake (carb) studs of an aftermarket intake.:worry:

When I did my FE Big Block, I used the holes in the ends of the heads, the left front corner hole for the power steering pump and the same holes on the right rear corner of the engine. I pulled the engine without the trans. The trans was supported by a small jack until my engine was out. Then I placed a 2"x4" across the fenders and hung the the trans from it, allowing me to push my truck back from under the hoist. I was using a chain hoist hanging from an 8"x8" wooden beam which was sitting on top of two vertical 4"x6" 's, one at each end. Surprisingly, it wasn't too hard to push my truck around. It worked quite well.

When I pull my 383 I would like to remove all of my front sheetmetal, including the rad support and the bumper and grille too, of course. I helped a buddy do his '69 Galaxie that way and it made removing and re-installing the engine a breeze.

 

[vdk2010]

Done a few of them in the street. This car IS registered and insured along with these being private streets I don't think I'd have a problem, long as the HOA doesn't drive by at the time.

I have done the bottom up install on an A-Body, might be a little more involved on a C-Body with the stub frame, it is outlined in the Service Manual though.

Alan

Haha, that looks great! I wouldn't try it with my Imperial, but it seems to work fine with a smaller A-body.

That's how I'm going to do my 300. Attach everything onto the stub and then lower the car into position, bolt up and done.

Your front end is off, right? I'm sure it's easier to go the upper way then?!

 

[vdk2010]

I need 3/8"-16 - Bolts for the engine stand, rught? How deep are the bores on the engine block? How much inches of thread do I need to hold the engine secure on the stand?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Just keep in mind that a C-Body has a lot more frame than an A-Body

Alan

 

[vdk2010]

That's cute, indeed! And the 69 Imperial frame is even bigger than the frame in your c-body pic.

 

[Samplingman]

Just keep in mind that a C-Body has a lot more frame than an A-Body

Alan

Nice! That's quite a difference. Say, how's that extra stub frame project going?

James

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Nice! That's quite a difference. Say, how's that extra stub frame project going?

James

Haha, In the last two weeks I have had two different trips, I should be able to get it knocked down this weekend.
I could then get you actual weight and size for shipping quotes.


Alan