Exact starter switch

[70NPORT]

Yeah, like that. (edit.. Thought you were inserting from the wrong direction LOL)

Red w/white tracers... The tracer is the white stripe on the wire. The center picture has those two wires. They will have to be disconnected from the old harness and connector and plugged into the new one.

I'm using my 70 FSM, so maybe the wires don't have the tracers.... But the two smaller red wires on the end of the old connector. They are for the buzzer switch.

Ugh.....so ultimately the red/black wires will need to be inserted into the new switch's connector empty slots...and the buzzer wiring will have to be transferred over as well. Dammit, why can they not just make an exact duplicate of the friken thing. Seems like that would make more sense to me. You've cleared the fog up for me. Many thanks.

 

[70NPORT]

God this REALLY has not been my week. Yesterday I had to run a hot lead between the positive side of my MSD coil to the positive post on the batt to get the Newport to run......not start, it will spin freely, but to keep it running I had to rig that wire up temporarily. When I disconnect it, the engine stops running immediately. Everything in the instrument pnl works (I was thinking about the ammeter thing but I already by passed it under the hood a long time now).

Suggestions?

 

[Big_John]

Bad Ballast resistor.

 

[70NPORT]

Bad Ballast resistor.

I thought they usually went bad due to minute cracks.....but I've got a couple spares in the trunk. I'll see which has the correct Ohm and try it out. Thanks BigJohn!

 

[saforwardlook]

I bought an ignition switch for my 1970 Sport Fury GT from NAPA, and it was a direct fit exact replacement for the original switch originally in the car. No messing with wires and such - they were all identical and color coded correctly. And no more smoking steering column when I went to start the car!

 

[70NPORT]

I bought an ignition switch for my 1970 Sport Fury GT from NAPA, and it was a direct fit exact replacement for the original switch originally in the car. No messing with wires and such - they were all identical and color coded correctly. And no more smoking steering column when I went to start the car!

Looks like they are selling the same exact item I picked up from Rock Auto now. Would have been nice not to have to do any cutting.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ion-Starter-Switch/_/R-MPEKS6611SB_0172731003

 

[70NPORT]

Nogo with the ballast resistor swap. My problems are never solved that easily.

 

[70NPORT]

You can buy the connectors separately.

Like these for example from my VW..
View attachment 27069

the missing wires are probably for features that are not included!?

You can remove the connectors with cables from the old piece. It's a pain in the *** to remove these connectors but that would be the easiest way, I guess?!

Anyone got a good/fast source for obtaining the smaller version of these molex pins? Need to find size 1.57mm (.062in) Female.

 

[commando1]

Anyone got a good/fast source for obtaining the smaller version of these molex pins? Need to find size 1.57mm (.062in) Female.

How many you need?
I buy the 12 pin Molex connectors at Radio Shack and just use the pins.
Cheaper than buying just the pins on the internet.
The twelve pin use the smaller pins.
The 2 (and maybe 4) pin use the larger.

Buy a pin extractor while you're there. They are cheap and they are priceless when you insert the beautifly crimped pin into the wrong hole. AMWIK

 

[BJS racing]

No!! No!!

My God! The humanity!!

Ignition... solder and shrink wrap.

Google "western union wire splice" to see how it's really done right.

For the love of god don't solder unless you are very proficient with doing it. It will actually create more problems then it will solve. Introducing too much heat to the wire will create resistance and also cause a brittle spot in the wire and that is where it will catch up to you down the road and break. Non insulated but connectors and heat shrink will be a lot nicer than the normal butt connectors and you will not introduce heat to they system.

 

[BJS racing]

How many you need?
I buy the 12 pin Molex connectors at Radio Shack and just use the pins.
Cheaper than buying just the pins on the internet.
The twelve pin use the smaller pins.
The 2 (and maybe 4) pin use the larger.

Buy a pin extractor while you're there. They are cheap and they are priceless when you insert the beautifly crimped pin into the wrong hole. AMWIK

The problem with these is the terminals are only rated up to 15 amps each and are not a very good connection for ignition switches. We used to do that back in the day here at Painless with the same connectors and terminal. We don't any more. Anyone want to venture as to why?

 

[BJS racing]

Nogo with the ballast resistor swap. My problems are never solved that easily.

Do you have power on the Blue wire going to the ballast resistor when the key is in the run position and the brown on the resistor when the key is in the start?

 

[BJS racing]

Anyone got a good/fast source for obtaining the smaller version of these molex pins? Need to find size 1.57mm (.062in) Female.

The only place in the world that I know of at this time to get the correct terminals for these ignition switches and turn signals are from Year one. They are a special and one of a kind terminal and they will not sell them by them selves.

 

[commando1]

The only place in the world to get the correct terminals for these ignition switches and turn signals are from Year one

I'd cut off my balls first........

The problem with these is the terminals are only rated up to 15 amps each and are not a very good connection for ignition switches.

You need more than 15A? What do we need?

 

[BJS racing]

Everything in the car that is key on power is running through the ignition switch. The heater circuit alone is 10 to 15 amps and that is just one system. You are looking at probably anywhere from 30 to 60 amps of ignition power and probably up to 30 or 40 amps on the accy side of the system. Have you ever looked at the ignition switch connectors on any of the mopars and noticed that the connector is melted and deformed a little? The round terminals like these really aren't the best for carrying this kind of load. The flat packard 54 series terminals are much better like what GM and Ford as well as the earlier Mopars used.

 

[70NPORT]

How many you need?
I buy the 12 pin Molex connectors at Radio Shack and just use the pins.
Cheaper than buying just the pins on the internet.
The twelve pin use the smaller pins.
The 2 (and maybe 4) pin use the larger.

Buy a pin extractor while you're there. They are cheap and they are priceless when you insert the beautifly crimped pin into the wrong hole. AMWIK

I don't need any plastic housing, just the female connector (sockets).....actually need (2) .93 & (2) .67. I already scored a pin extractor (actually borrowing it), that was easy. Trying to find the right sized MOLEX female pins....and I don't need to buy 1000 at a shot from a online vendor. Must not be the same Radio Shack up here.....they were clueless about the Molex pins (as in didn't know what they were).

 

[70NPORT]

For the love of god don't solder unless you are very proficient with doing it. It will actually create more problems then it will solve. Introducing too much heat to the wire will create resistance and also cause a brittle spot in the wire and that is where it will catch up to you down the road and break. Non insulated but connectors and heat shrink will be a lot nicer than the normal butt connectors and you will not introduce heat to they system.

Nppe. Not sodering anything. There's no need to....no conductor to conductor splicing is required. I would prefer not to do that anyway.....I would prefer not to disturb any 45 yr old wiring in the first place, but it is necessary if I want to remove the faulty switch....yesterday it cut off on me in the middle of a 3 way intersection. Almost got into fisticuffs with a Bimmer driver two cars behind me. I don't like violence.

 

[70NPORT]

Do you have power on the Blue wire going to the ballast resistor when the key is in the run position and the brown on the resistor when the key is in the start?

Figured it out that it wasn't the ballast resistor. Its the ignition switch in the column that was/is the problem.

 

[70NPORT]

The only place in the world that I know of at this time to get the correct terminals for these ignition switches and turn signals are from Year one. They are a special and one of a kind terminal and they will not sell them by them selves.

I found a million two vendors on the internet selling the male/female pins........Molex themselves sell them. Gotta buy in bulk.

 

[BJS racing]

You found the actual terminal that is in the ignition switch connector? There are many that look like them but they aren't the same.