Fan Shroud For 1965 Plymouth Fury 22" Radiator.

[Mudeblue]

I am looking for a fan shroud for a 1965 Fury with has a 383 with a 22" radiator. Everything I find on the internet is for a 62-64 B body and then from 1966 and up for B and C Body. I put in a new aluminum radiator and am currently running a Derale 17" puller fan along with a pusher fan. Tried both with and without aluminum shroud from Derale. I am working with real close tolerances given I have also installed a/c and power steering with serpentine belts. We were able to to get everything installed but the set up does not properly cool the engine. I have spoken with several people with same type car and radiator size and to a person they were running a clutch fan and if they had tried electric fan(s), they have reinstalled clutch fans. In other cases where electric fans were used, different cars, I was informed the Derale just does not work as well as other manufactures; some of which had used Derale and switched to a different brand. In fact, I originally installed a 17" shroud which did not work and I then purchased another 17" with a shroud and did not really make a difference; both Derale. I gave the original 17" without a shroud away, individual installed, engine overheat, pulled the fan, purchased and installed from another vendor which solved his problem. Don't know what is right and what is wrong but I know what didn't work for me.

Having said all that, we are now going to convert back to a clutch fan set-up but I am having trouble locating where to purchase a 22" shroud OR a wondering if 22" shroud from another year/model, B Body, that might fit! Any ideas or recommendations because right now I have a car that looks good but unusable when temperatures here in Arizona get 80 degrees plus and the water temperature gets to 230+ and red lights are not my friend! In the meantime, it just sets in the garage just looking pretty!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I have one. Is your radiator #2524984? Consider yourself blessed if so. Unfortunately, I won't sell my shroud, but I CAN tell you how to fabricate a decent one. By ALL means stick with the 22" radiator too. I live in Tucson, 110+ degree summer day heat Arizona, and have learned one or two things about shrouds, radiators, fans and cooling systems here over the pas 8 years of running the same 383 and running it COOL.

You might consider getting a 22" radiator from US Radiator. They make theirs with a modern shroud flange permitting folks to attach common electric fan shrouds with sheetmetal screws. You can actually fabricate brackets for a B body shroud quite easily with that. Likewise, using 1/16" angle aluminum, you should be able to make decent shroud brackets for a genuine Mopar shroud, should you find one. So long as it lines up, you'll be fine.

Ditch the aluminum radiator ASAP. It likely will ditch itself after a year or so anyway. Good time to practice your shrouding skills. I did exactly that before breaking out some serious $ on the good copper one I now run.

 

[Mudeblue]

I have one. Is your radiator #2524984? Consider yourself blessed if so. Unfortunately, I won't sell my shroud, but I CAN tell you how to fabricate a decent one. By ALL means stick with the 22" radiator too. I live in Tucson, 110+ degree summer day heat Arizona, and have learned one or two things about shrouds, radiators, fans and cooling systems here over the pas 8 years of running the same 383 and running it COOL.

You might consider getting a 22" radiator from US Radiator. They make theirs with a modern shroud flange permitting folks to attach common electric fan shrouds with sheetmetal screws. You can actually fabricate brackets for a B body shroud quite easily with that. Likewise, using 1/16" angle aluminum, you should be able to make decent shroud brackets for a genuine Mopar shroud, should you find one. So long as it lines up, you'll be fine.

Ditch the aluminum radiator ASAP. It likely will ditch itself after a year or so anyway. Good time to practice your shrouding skills. I did exactly that before breaking out some serious $ on the good copper one I now run.

I am assuming your running an electric fan, am I correct! I currently have an aluminum shroud with a 17" fan which does not cool (interesting enough, the same set up I run my 66 GTO fine - never goes above 185 here in Phoienix). Finding a shroud that I can modify is the problem but would like to go with a mechanical fan at this point but the problem becomes fnding a shroud that would fit the radiator and fan as to width, height and depth. Curious if a B Body shroud would be adaptable. My radiator is a Griffin aluminum which was manufactured incorrectly but was able to get that corrected and is same dimensions as the OEM which setting in my garage taking up time and space but a good radiator; #2524984.

 

[Gerald Morris]

I am assuming your running an electric fan, am I correct! I currently have an aluminum shroud with a 17" fan which does not cool (interesting enough, the same set up I run my 66 GTO fine - never goes above 185 here in Phoienix). Finding a shroud that I can modify is the problem but would like to go with a mechanical fan at this point but the problem becomes fnding a shroud that would fit the radiator and fan as to width, height and depth. Curious if a B Body shroud would be adaptable. My radiator is a Griffin aluminum which was manufactured incorrectly but was able to get that corrected and is same dimensions as the OEM which setting in my garage taking up time and space but a good radiator; #2524984.

During the COOL Season, I only run my FFD 3600 as a PUSHER, and its controlled by a temperature switch to kick on only when coolant temperature reaches 200 Fahrenheit, which is RARE, this time of year. During the HOT SEASON, I ADD my 18 inch Mopar 7 blade fan, using the 1965 mech fan shroud with it.

ITS NOT THE FAN BUT THE RADIATOR THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE!! Aluminum radiators AT BEST are STOPGAP BANDAID SOLUTIONS which I use only when desperately short of cash!

Like I stated before, you can use a B body mech shroud. Let me suggest a couple, but of FAR GREATER IMPORTANCE TO YOU IS THAT YOU GET A COPPER RADIATOR!!! I did BETTER with 58 yr old original Mopar 2524084 radiators than either of the aluminum radiators I tried. Copper simply is a better conductor, of both electrons and heat for the exact same reason: the electrostatic attraction between nucleus and outer (valence) electrons in copper is weaker than aluminum, and charge mobility thus is greater. Result: heat and current FLOW MORE READILY OVER THE SURFACE OF COPPER!!!

OK, let's get you the Right ****:
Radiator: https://www.classicindustries.com/p...niVLwnAgD-8vLeKwRORoCaMwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
OR
https://www.classicindustries.com/p...effWjAoZ3Sd6aprYspRoC5hQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I like the second one and run it on my 68 Newport.

Now, Shroud: https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/charger/parts/mb2340.html

Now, fan: https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118...ocphy=9030239&hvtargid=pla-572399105958&psc=1

I used one of the Derale fans for over 4 yrs, w a clutch to good result. I scored my Mopar 7 blade in a junk yard. ******* parts flippers have inflated their price since those happy days just 4 yrs ago....

There abound many 7 blade clutch fans which should work, despite being rated for GMs. Find one that will fit the clutch, and get the rotation right. That Derale did pretty good for me if you want a safe, brand new one easy to get.


Ditch that Griffen beer can radiator ASAP bro.

 

[Mudeblue]

During the COOL Season, I only run my FFD 3600 as a PUSHER, and its controlled by a temperature switch to kick on only when coolant temperature reaches 200 Fahrenheit, which is RARE, this time of year. During the HOT SEASON, I ADD my 18 inch Mopar 7 blade fan, using the 1965 mech fan shroud with it.

ITS NOT THE FAN BUT THE RADIATOR THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE!! Aluminum radiators AT BEST are STOPGAP BANDAID SOLUTIONS which I use only when desperately short of cash!

Like I stated before, you can use a B body mech shroud. Let me suggest a couple, but of FAR GREATER IMPORTANCE TO YOU IS THAT YOU GET A COPPER RADIATOR!!! I did BETTER with 58 yr old original Mopar 2524084 radiators than either of the aluminum radiators I tried. Copper simply is a better conductor, of both electrons and heat for the exact same reason: the electrostatic attraction between nucleus and outer (valence) electrons in copper is weaker than aluminum, and charge mobility thus is greater. Result: heat and current FLOW MORE READILY OVER THE SURFACE OF COPPER!!!

OK, let's get you the Right ****:
Radiator: https://www.classicindustries.com/p...niVLwnAgD-8vLeKwRORoCaMwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
OR
https://www.classicindustries.com/p...effWjAoZ3Sd6aprYspRoC5hQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I like the second one and run it on my 68 Newport.

Now, Shroud: https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/dodge/charger/parts/mb2340.html

Now, fan: https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118...ocphy=9030239&hvtargid=pla-572399105958&psc=1

I used one of the Derale fans for over 4 yrs, w a clutch to good result. I scored my Mopar 7 blade in a junk yard. ******* parts flippers have inflated their price since those happy days just 4 yrs ago....

There abound many 7 blade clutch fans which should work, despite being rated for GMs. Find one that will fit the clutch, and get the rotation right. That Derale did pretty good for me if you want a safe, brand new one easy to get.


Ditch that Griffen beer can radiator ASAP bro.

Thanks for all your time and effort. Gives me a lot to ponder given the situation I have gotten myself into; a/c, power steering, new 140 amp, brackets, electric fans and serpentine belt. Amount of work and expense, much of which I already have in it, is making my head hurt. Maybe should just get a chain and pull it around with my GTO; never lets me down!

 

[Sixpactogo]

I am wondering about your serpentine belt system. I installed a March pulley serpentine setup on my 70 Challenger many years ago. I had all the headaches you are dealing with now. Turns out, the March pulleys are "underdrive" meaning they are smaller pulleys designed to use less horsepower. They look great but can't do the job. The problem is while using less horsepower, they also move less coolant. I blamed the radiator, the fan, the pump, the thermostat and everything but the real culprit. My car cooled fine at highway speeds but stop and go traffic brought up the temps. Idling was forbidden. All because the coolant was staying in the engine too long. I finally figured it out and went back to the factory system. Problem solved. My 65 Sport Fury has the stock 22" radiator and pulley system with shroud and clutch fan. It can idle all day in 100 degree weather and never get beyond half way on the gauge.

If you can find serpentine pulleys that are the same size as your old pulleys, it will more than likely solve your heat issues.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Your Big Mistake was the serpentine belt system bro. Don't adopt mechanical systems which were designed for a later generation of machinery. I KNOW that looks odd, esp from Yours Truly, but in FACT, I carefully consider, sometimes even calculate, before I so much as buy a nut or bolt when deviating from the Old Mopar specs. Some stuff, like the cooling system, was WEAK, so by all means, adopt stronger measures, but keep it supplied in accord with whats physically optimal. A serpentine belt setup on these engines designed by a young genius in the mid 1950s when V belts were still rather new doesn't sit well, nor do aluminum cooling components.

Sell all that **** to somebody who you hate, and get some good Old Mopar Iron and copper back on that engine! There are still plenty optimizations you CAN do, which then will give you an excellent powerplant. Keep the high current alternator, and by all means use modern electrical wire with that, complete with good Bosch relays and breakers where needed. You can even get an electric coolant pump going with this engine, which will relieve your crankshaft of another parasitic torque load better devoted to the road rubber. But whatever else you do, KEEP THE RADIATOR COPPER!!! I too had to learn the hard Way on this matter. I like one outfit in Chicago which makes a decent 22 x 18" aluminum radiator, which I even devised a good aluminum shroud for, all of which worked well enough for the investment until my front end was collapsed by a malevolent fraudster 4 years ago. Copper simply makes a better conductor and your iron block will ALWAYS bias the ionic content of the coolant soup such that aluminum WILL dissociate, creating a weak cell in the coolant. Over time, you will destroy the aluminum, and thus your cooling system. NOT a LONG TERM SOLUTION! Only a totally anhydrous, non-polar coolant will work with a mixed metal environment of such varied electronegativities. Iron and copper by contrast are very CLOSE, thus, NO REACTION. Donor anodes only mask the basic issue, and introduce yet another metal ion into the soup thereby.

Think! With that high current alternator, you can have strong electric fans AND a Meziere pump which you can then thermostatically control, running them even after the engine is shut down until coolant temperature reaches the optimum you desire. I probably am headed this way in my own cooling design, though with my 4 row radiator, I've reached an excellent performance plateau.

I forgot to mention the importance of the Right Thermostat yesterday also!! Damn me! Get a RobertShaw 370-180 or maybe a 370-195 thermostat. DON'T accept inferior asiatic copies. Those drop-skirt brass thermostats make a BIG difference in how the coolant flows! Try one now. Maybe the rest of your stuff will do better with one.

 

[Mudeblue]

I am wondering about your serpentine belt system. I installed a March pulley serpentine setup on my 70 Challenger many years ago. I had all the headaches you are dealing with now. Turns out, the March pulleys are "underdrive" meaning they are smaller pulleys designed to use less horsepower. They look great but can't do the job. The problem is while using less horsepower, they also move less coolant. I blamed the radiator, the fan, the pump, the thermostat and everything but the real culprit. My car cooled fine at highway speeds but stop and go traffic brought up the temps. Idling was forbidden. All because the coolant was staying in the engine too long. I finally figured it out and went back to the factory system. Problem solved. My 65 Sport Fury has the stock 22" radiator and pulley system with shroud and clutch fan. It can idle all day in 100 degree weather and never get beyond half way on the gauge.

If you can find serpentine pulleys that are the same size as your old pulleys, it will more than likely solve your heat issues.

Thanks. The primary reason I went this route was I was doing a full restoration and everything was stock and I was already having a heating problems even after overhauling the stock radiator! The only thing it did not have was a shroud; maybe the problem, maybe not. Received a lot of good information from Gerald Morris above and will consider all. Since my last input, I have made arrangements with an individual here in Phoenix who has been addressing strictly cooling issues for 35 years in all types of vehicles with an emphasis in racing. Going to take the car over to him and get his thoughts. Still have all the old parts and of course, all the new! Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Mudeblue]

Your Big Mistake was the serpentine belt system bro. Don't adopt mechanical systems which were designed for a later generation of machinery. I KNOW that looks odd, esp from Yours Truly, but in FACT, I carefully consider, sometimes even calculate, before I so much as buy a nut or bolt when deviating from the Old Mopar specs. Some stuff, like the cooling system, was WEAK, so by all means, adopt stronger measures, but keep it supplied in accord with whats physically optimal. A serpentine belt setup on these engines designed by a young genius in the mid 1950s when V belts were still rather new doesn't sit well, nor do aluminum cooling components.

Sell all that **** to somebody who you hate, and get some good Old Mopar Iron and copper back on that engine! There are still plenty optimizations you CAN do, which then will give you an excellent powerplant. Keep the high current alternator, and by all means use modern electrical wire with that, complete with good Bosch relays and breakers where needed. You can even get an electric coolant pump going with this engine, which will relieve your crankshaft of another parasitic torque load better devoted to the road rubber. But whatever else you do, KEEP THE RADIATOR COPPER!!! I too had to learn the hard Way on this matter. I like one outfit in Chicago which makes a decent 22 x 18" aluminum radiator, which I even devised a good aluminum shroud for, all of which worked well enough for the investment until my front end was collapsed by a malevolent fraudster 4 years ago. Copper simply makes a better conductor and your iron block will ALWAYS bias the ionic content of the coolant soup such that aluminum WILL dissociate, creating a weak cell in the coolant. Over time, you will destroy the aluminum, and thus your cooling system. NOT a LONG TERM SOLUTION! Only a totally anhydrous, non-polar coolant will work with a mixed metal environment of such varied electronegativities. Iron and copper by contrast are very CLOSE, thus, NO REACTION. Donor anodes only mask the basic issue, and introduce yet another metal ion into the soup thereby.

Think! With that high current alternator, you can have strong electric fans AND a Meziere pump which you can then thermostatically control, running them even after the engine is shut down until coolant temperature reaches the optimum you desire. I probably am headed this way in my own cooling design, though with my 4 row radiator, I've reached an excellent performance plateau.

I forgot to mention the importance of the Right Thermostat yesterday also!! Damn me! Get a RobertShaw 370-180 or maybe a 370-195 thermostat. DON'T accept inferior asiatic copies. Those drop-skirt brass thermostats make a BIG difference in how the coolant flows! Try one now. Maybe the rest of your stuff will do better with one.

Gerald: See my comment to Sixpactogo. Thanks for all your input.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Gerald: See my comment to Sixpactogo. Thanks for all your input.

Good luck