First day out with Sport Fury. Not the best.
- Thread starter Joseph James
- Start date
65Fury440
Senior Member
I went through the same thing with my 63 Fury.
After a bunch of filters got plugged with rust sediment, I pulled the sending unit.
There were big rust flakes that would plug up the pickup while driving, and cause all kinds of low fuel pressure problems.
Pulled the tank and cleaned a bunch of crap out.
Might be worth a look. Try not to knicker up your sending unit O ring.
New ones that fit are harder to find than they should be.
After a bunch of filters got plugged with rust sediment, I pulled the sending unit.
There were big rust flakes that would plug up the pickup while driving, and cause all kinds of low fuel pressure problems.
Pulled the tank and cleaned a bunch of crap out.
Might be worth a look. Try not to knicker up your sending unit O ring.
New ones that fit are harder to find than they should be.
Joseph James
Senior Member
Surge at cruise, as a bog from a stop. Other than that I have been driving back and forth to work with no problems.
Power steering kit came yesterday. Brakes are next. The rears are 2.75". I don't know what the front brakes until I measure them. I don't want to buy new drums and shoes and get the wrong ones.
Power steering kit came yesterday. Brakes are next. The rears are 2.75". I don't know what the front brakes until I measure them. I don't want to buy new drums and shoes and get the wrong ones.
Joseph James
Senior Member
May not make it home. Idle is erratic. Dies out on hills (up or down) or if I gas it and let off. Makes me wonder if I have a bad fuel filter. It has a new one on it.
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
It's not new if there was goop in the tank.
Joseph James
Senior Member
It's a new tank and sending unit. Going to replace tomorrow.
Joseph James
Senior Member
Sunday it was not driveable at all. Flooded once and then kept stalling when letting off accelerator. 68 degrees ambient. Today, drove it home with no problems. 51 degrees today.
Nadir Point
Member
Unfortunately for us, these cars were not designed with today's operating environment in mind. They can be made to run well, but it is frustrating and tricky. Were I you, I would shelve daily driver plans for awhile and just look at it as a project with a couple challenges for you.
Joseph James
Senior Member
I spoke with a guy at work about it. He had the same problem with a 302 Ford. Turned out to be a hairline crack in the baseplate.
I drove it this morning with no problems other than the flat spot at low acceleration.
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
Is your vacuum advance functional?
Joseph James
Senior Member
No. The new distributor I bought has already had the diaphragm fail. I have the line plugged off. I bought a distributor because I couldn't find just a vacuum advance unit for sale.
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
Well, that is definitely part of your acceleration stumble. Mine would try to stall leaving a stoplight, then I replaced it, now it's smooth sailing, aside from my unfound vacuum leak.
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
Reading back over your symptoms of surging at cruise, and sluggish from a stop, it definitely sounds like a vacuum leak. Harbor Freight (if there's one near you) sells a vacuum gauge for $14 with all the whizzbangs and doodads to connect to pretty much any vacuum port on your car. In the little bit of time I've had mine, it has helped me troubleshoot a LOT of things. Since the engines are essentially just giant air pumps, a little vacuum goes a long way. As an example, once the members here pointed me to the right resources on learning about my carb, I was able to do a lot more troubleshooting, with a lot less questions. The vacuum-operated thermal choke was plugged on my carb, and just cleaning the port out and reconnecting the vacuum hose made a huge difference in cold starts. (I don't mean just wintery cold, even on 50-60 degree days) and it also stopped the choke from flapping like a panicking one-winged butterfly while I drive. It's a shame you're not closer, we could probably help each other out! I still need to get up with @Yeahrightgreer he's not far from me at all.
Nadir Point
Member
Apart from the usual nitpicks, it sounds like it runs fairly well as long as it's getting fuel. One thing I didn't mention before on that topic was installing a fuel pressure gauge. Even with all the other fuel system supporting mods, mine still struggles to maintain pressure on really hot days after it's warmed up. On cold start and during the winter, it pushes the spec'd 6psi at all times. Running hot in the summer that number is down to 2-3 psi at best. I've even seen it struggling with almost nothing registering on the gauge a couple times when it gets hot enough. A fuel pump can't pump air. It's just the shitty gas intended for modern high-pressure fuel systems.
Last edited:
Jakter
Well-Known Member
I don't see why people keep blaming todays gas for their cars not preforming well.
I recently sold a 1960 Chrysler New Yorker with a 413 cuin. 4brl, dual exhaust that was completely stock and ran flawlessly on 87 octane unleaded with 10 % ethanol.
Currently running a 1967 Chrysler Newport ,383 cuin., 2 Brl., single exhaust that runs flawlessly on the same gas.
Just started my riding lawn mower up since sitting from November 2018 with the same gas and Sta-bil added and it ran flawlessly.
Just started my old Craftsman leaf blower first time since Nov. 2018 with same gas and 2 cycle oil in it from last year and it ran flawlessly.
Same thing for an old Montgomery Ward chainsaw that started and ran like I used it two days ago.
If your car is not running right I highly doubt it's the gas.
I recently sold a 1960 Chrysler New Yorker with a 413 cuin. 4brl, dual exhaust that was completely stock and ran flawlessly on 87 octane unleaded with 10 % ethanol.
Currently running a 1967 Chrysler Newport ,383 cuin., 2 Brl., single exhaust that runs flawlessly on the same gas.
Just started my riding lawn mower up since sitting from November 2018 with the same gas and Sta-bil added and it ran flawlessly.
Just started my old Craftsman leaf blower first time since Nov. 2018 with same gas and 2 cycle oil in it from last year and it ran flawlessly.
Same thing for an old Montgomery Ward chainsaw that started and ran like I used it two days ago.
If your car is not running right I highly doubt it's the gas.
Jakter
Well-Known Member
In the current addition of Auto Restorer someone is working on an old forklift and said they put a New/ rebuilt carburetor on it and couldn't get it to run right. I believe they describe symptoms similar to yours.
They say they had to clean and blow out all the passages 6 times before they could get the carburetor to work correctly.
They say they had to clean and blow out all the passages 6 times before they could get the carburetor to work correctly.
Nadir Point
Member
That's because you have no experience with this particular situation. The fact that good-running cars don't have problems is no newsflash. Mine ran well in stock form for awhile too.
So what is your suggestion - do nothing? BTW, I'm not "people." My name is Nadir Point, to you. But don'y worry about addressing me any further. Sometimes I wonder why I participate in these forums at all.
Last edited:
Joseph James
Senior Member
I definitely can tell ethanol versus pure gas. With ethanol, the car floods and weeps fuel from gaskets.
I drove it to work today with no problems. I am running no ethanol fuel.
I drove it to work today with no problems. I am running no ethanol fuel.
BLUPORT
Carpe Diem Cras
Your car seems quite temperamental... Safe to assume it has a girl's name?
Jakter
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you solved the problem.
Similar threads
