First day out with Sport Fury. Not the best.

Finally got around to dealing with the neutral safety switch. When I got the car, the wiring was attached to the oil pressure switch.

NSS is toast. I tried to ring it out to several ground points in Park. So, it is back to having the ground side of the coil to the negative battery terminal.

I haven't seen any NSS like mine for sale. It has one screw terminal. They are on eBay but are very expensive.

Carb comes off tomorrow.
 
From what I understand the later ness (3wire )will work.Two terminals act as a switch for back up lights and one is for starting.A test with a test light after installation should find the terminal you need.Anyone please correct me if I am mistaken
 
thrashingcows said:
Yes you can use the 3 terminal set-up and just run a single connector to the Neutral Safety portion of it....usually the center prong I believe.
Click to expand...
I believe you are correct.

Joe needs to get the 3 terminal switch and pigtail and wire it up. Problem solved.
 
This should help

neutral%2Bsafety%2Bwiring.jpg


Bottom pic of course
 
Joseph James said:
Thanks a lot. Any tips on getting the power steering reservoir off? I tried today but was afraid I would bend it out of round.
Click to expand...

The reservoir can is a pretty tight fit, but it can be loosened using a very small screw driver gently inserted and twisted around the circumference of the lip where it seats to the pump. Go slow, and it will come off undamaged.
 
They changed the switches in 1969 along with the "rooster comb" on the transmission valve body. It's my understanding that you can use a single pole switch in a '69 and up trans, but the three pole won't work on a pre '69 trans without swapping the rooster comb. That would involve dropping the pan and valve body. Easier/cheaper/better to find the right part.

'69 up on right, 66-68 in center.

6965331-NSSwitches.jpg
 
Pulled carburetor today. I have been driving it to work. Stalls sometimes. Bogs. Carb was clean when I pulled it(see photo).

Float level was 7/16. Set it for 5/16. Throttle body butterflies were off. Straightened them out.

Runs 100% better now. Surge and bog are gone.

IMG_20190427_123306317.jpg
 
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LocuMob said:
...I've always felt the issue here is tuning related
Click to expand...
So the tuneup ended up being a carb tweak. What's NOT tuning related about making an old carbureted V8 run right? Duh.
Nadir Point said:
Apart from the usual nitpicks, it sounds like it runs fairly well as long as it's getting fuel.
Click to expand...
Right. Fuel issues are like what, 1 of 10 "tuning" subsets? Bent butterflys. In the thing that regulates the fuel. Please do me a favor next time you feel like lecturing someone, just in case it's me Mr. Scott. Don't. I'll give you the opportunity, for now. Make me change my mind, if you feel so compelled.
 
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I'll add that one throttle butterfly was actually bent. I filed it down. FSM says leave them alone unless necessary.
 
Nadir Point said:
So the tuneup ended up being a carb tweak. What's NOT tuning related about making an old carbureted V8 run right? Duh.

Right. Fuel issues are like what, 1 of 10 "tuning" subsets? Bent butterflys. In the thing that regulates the fuel. Please do me a favor next time you feel like lecturing someone, just in case it's me Mr. Scott. Don't. I'll give you the opportunity, for now. Make me change my mind, if you feel so compelled.
Click to expand...
WTF? I gotta say, this kind of post is totally out of line. Nobody “lectured” you. You make about as much sense as a bag of wet hair.
 
Nadir Point said:
So the tuneup ended up being a carb tweak. What's NOT tuning related about making an old carbureted V8 run right? Duh.

Right. Fuel issues are like what, 1 of 10 "tuning" subsets? Bent butterflys. In the thing that regulates the fuel. Please do me a favor next time you feel like lecturing someone, just in case it's me Mr. Scott. Don't. I'll give you the opportunity, for now. Make me change my mind, if you feel so compelled.
Click to expand...

Do you mean this?

LocuMob said:
Maybe not, but they can be tuned just as easy as any other older car, and be as reliable as today's cars. It may be a skill that is fading to time, but it isn't voodoo. As long as it's stock, there are only so many things to tinker with. Adding a lumpy cam, headers and other bits that make power, make tuning more difficult.



Your point here is what? James car is set to stock, and you're pointing no problems when your car was stock, so why blame the fuel? I run a 440 with a .484 cam, headers, 3.55's in the rear, no fuel related issues other than running out of gas. James car should drink it down like water.



His suggestion was, don't blame the fuel, try something else.

Hi Nadir, I'm Scott. We come to these forums to share our thoughts, ideas, and progress with other like minded individuals. (Not all of us like sharing our personal information with the world, so we use made up names, it's irrelevant what name we use here, it truly is.) Do we always agree, no! But we usually can help someone find what's wrong when they ask. I don't know any more about this situation than what James has told us, and I based my responses off my previous situations that were similar.

We will never all see things the same as long as there is more than one opinion, that's just the way the world works. Stick around, it'll be okay.
Click to expand...
Sorry I broke down my line or thinking for helping James figure out his issues. Always the easy way to say, "I know what the problem is" after he found it. :thumbsup: Give yourself a big pat on the back! Sorry if you don't agree with what I said, I clearly pointed out that's the way the internet works, we all say whatever we think. I'll try to go over what I said to you while I'm at work tonight, and try to find the error in my ways.






























:rofl:

Really? I'm sorry you can't engage in simple conversation, that may border on debate, without feeling lectured. Maybe next time, put a disclaimer that you'd like no responses to your post.
 
Well, I'm a bit confused. Sticker on fender says 7 1/2 BTDC. Car will not run there. It actually is past the 10 degree mark. I used the total timing dial on the light. It came out to zero mark on balancer at 38 degrees on the light dial.

I can't adjust much because I am waiting on a voltage regulator. If I dial the idle down to 700, the ammeter goes into discharge and the car stalls. It's bad enough I have to turn off the wipers at a red light. Regulator arrives Wednesday.
 
When your dialing back the advance on the timing light you have the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged off? Also what is your idle set at? You should only have the static timing of 10-12(?) deg at idle, then as the idle starts to rise the mechanical advance engages inside the dizzy, then again as the speed increases the vacuum advance engages. Your numbers appear to me like you are getting total full timing at idle?
 
thrashingcows said:
When your dialing back the advance on the timing light you have the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged off? Also what is your idle set at? You should only have the static timing of 10-12(?) deg at idle, then as the idle starts to rise the mechanical advance engages inside the dizzy, then again as the speed increases the vacuum advance engages. Your numbers appear to me like you are getting total full timing at idle?
Click to expand...

Vacuum advance is non functioning. Plugged off for now.

Idle is about 1000. Won't run lower due to electrical problem.

The 38 degrees I got at 3000 RPM.
 
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