Fluids!

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Guys.

Hope this is the right place to put this, I've got my new Wagon almost ready for the road, but I'd like to change all the driveline fluids.

What do you folks recommend for Coolant, Engine Oil (Additives?), Transmission fluid, Rear Diff Fluid?

What do you use, what do you like, what's recommended? 1968 Polara Wagon, 318 2 barrel/904, non sure grip. Driver, will get some decent miles this summer. Currently sitting at 77300 miles.

Thanks!
 
Guys.

Hope this is the right place to put this, I've got my new Wagon almost ready for the road, but I'd like to change all the driveline fluids.

What do you folks recommend for Coolant, Engine Oil (Additives?), Transmission fluid, Rear Diff Fluid?

What do you use, what do you like, what's recommended? 1968 Polara Wagon, 318 2 barrel/904, non sure grip. Driver, will get some decent miles this summer. Currently sitting at 77300 miles.

What type of driving u expect to be doing??That's the first thing I would start with--determines what "type" of lubricants will do the best for the car.
 
Guys.

Hope this is the right place to put this, I've got my new Wagon almost ready for the road, but I'd like to change all the driveline fluids.

What do you folks recommend for Coolant, Engine Oil (Additives?), Transmission fluid, Rear Diff Fluid?

What do you use, what do you like, what's recommended? 1968 Polara Wagon, 318 2 barrel/904, non sure grip. Driver, will get some decent miles this summer. Currently sitting at 77300 miles.

Thanks!
I run dexcool extended life in the rad,15w40 in the oil pan, dextron III with the Lucas trans oil stableiser in the trans, and 75w90 synthetic in the diff.
 
It will be driven, not going to be trailered. Will be going to Mopar Nats and Carlisle hopefully this summer in it. Won't be daily driven, but expecting it to see usage on the weekends plus some road trips. No towing at least this summer.

Thanks 'GoodNeighbour' for your suggestions!
 
What do you folks recommend for Coolant...
NOTHING until the system is completely flushed and a new thermostat and hoses is installed.
After a super flush, if that water isn't running crystal clear after an hour of running, super flush it again!
 
Good Stan, then what? The man wants advice on anti freeze not how to get spring water from the radiator.


I like the animal friendly stuff ( forgetting the name) but it is difficult to find, maybe they dont even make it anymore. So Prestone it is....
 
Thanks Stan. I already planned on getting a 160 Thermostat and either trying to find molded hoses, or just going to my local hydraulics dealer and grabbing a few feet of 5/8" and 1 1/2" and putting on new hoses. I'm going to change the trans fluid filter as well when I do the fluid change.
 
you might want to reconsider the 160 degree tstat. your engine needs to run at a higher temp. than that. 190-195 is recommended. you will do more harm than good running too low engine temps.
 
you might want to reconsider the 160 degree tstat. your engine needs to run at a higher temp. than that. 190-195 is recommended. you will do more harm than good running too low engine temps.


I disagree from experience. My cars do not like summer heat and since I do not need the heater in the winter since the car is not used I dont need the engine temps that hot. I like the lower T-stat
 
I disagree from experience. My cars do not like summer heat and since I do not need the heater in the winter since the car is not used I dont need the engine temps that hot. I like the lower T-stat
i wasnt suggesting a higher temp tstat to keep his feet toasty in cold weather but only to keep his engine happy. anyone else have any input on this?
 
i wasnt suggesting a higher temp tstat to keep his feet toasty in cold weather but only to keep his engine happy. anyone else have any input on this?

Yes, run the recommended temperature by the manufacturer. If a cooling system is operating properly then it can take on heat and dispense heat in equal amounts thereby keeping the car below the boiling point as designed. All a lower t-stat does is postpone the hour of reckoning.

If one feels a lower t-stat is needed then their cooling system is not operating efficiently. Could be on the absorption of heat because maybe there is internal deposits hindering transfer. Could be on the dissipation end because of a clogged radiator, closed t-stat or bad water pump to name a few.

All my cars run either the 180 or 195 as specified by the maker and none hit the halfway point on the temperature gauge. New cars definitely need to run at 195 since many of the computer sensors may not function properly in determining correct engine needs.
 
Yes, run the recommended temperature by the manufacturer. If a cooling system is operating properly then it can take on heat and dispense heat in equal amounts thereby keeping the car below the boiling point as designed. All a lower t-stat does is postpone the hour of reckoning.

If one feels a lower t-stat is needed then their cooling system is not operating efficiently. Could be on the absorption of heat because maybe there is internal deposits hindering transfer. Could be on the dissipation end because of a clogged radiator, closed t-stat or bad water pump to name a few.

All my cars run either the 180 or 195 as specified by the maker and none hit the halfway point on the temperature gauge. New cars definitely need to run at 195 since many of the computer sensors may not function properly in determining correct engine needs.
thank you tbm3fan.
 
Well thats good you both agree with one another :annoying_dancer: . . . . . . .

However since you said " If a cooling system is operating properly then it can take on heat and dispense heat in equal amounts thereby keeping the car below the boiling point as designed. All a lower t-stat does is postpone the hour of reckoning.

If one feels a lower t-stat is needed then their cooling system is not operating efficiently. Could be on the absorption of heat because maybe there is internal deposits hindering transfer. Could be on the dissipation end because of a clogged radiator, closed t-stat or bad water pump to name a few.

All my cars run either the 180 or 195 as specified by the maker and none hit the halfway point on the temperature gauge."

Makes me see you are not being honest with yourself, but thats o.k.
 
Well thats good you both agree with one another :annoying_dancer: . . . . . . .



All my cars run either the 180 or 195 as specified by the maker and none hit the halfway point on the temperature gauge."

Makes me see you are not being honest with yourself, but thats o.k.

Is this the part you are quibbling with? If so then how many old temperature gauges are 100% calibrated much less marked with temperatures? Especially 40+ year old ones. I should have said that I know the point where my gauge is correct for the car as verified by my infrared temperature sensor. That sensor gives me the reference points I need for each particular gauge for each particular car as they warm up to operating temperature. Also works well on giving me oil temperatures. Now only if my fuel gauge read full instead of 3/4 right after I just filled the tank.
 
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say look boys here's the deal . run a 195 degree tstat . your engine needs to run at at least 195 degrees for proper lubrication in all areas. [ at least] this is not rocket science here.
 
Well thanks for all the discussion, but lets get back to the original question.

I'm planning on running Shell Rotella T Diesel 15w40 oil with Mopar filter in the motor, ATF4 for the trans and green prestone coolant with a 180 thermostat.

Any issues (other than the thermostat, thats my choice based on a 45 year old cooling system that may or may not overheat)
 
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