FUEL ISSUES WITH MY 65 Chrysler Newport 383

[Cianmini1]

Hi guys hope your well from Dublin Ireland.
I have a 65 newport.
Was all running fine no issues at all had a new fuel system last year,
Pump,pushrod,lines,tank and sender unit.
I let the car sit for about 1 month and came to start it one day no start, checked and I’m not getting fuel,
Have inspected the entire system,
Car runs fine if connected to a fuel can so I know the pump is working(have inspected pump and rod again and no issues.
So I know the issue is at the back of the car,
I blew out the fuel lines,
Blew into the sender unit and can hear it bubbling and I even pulled it out today to make sure the sock wasn’t pushed up all was good.
I noticed today I can get fuel to crank half way up the car but no further, fuel filter is not clogged.
I noticed blowing into the fuel sender is causing fuel to start gushing back out also.
I’m guessing my issue is venting related?
I thought also a collapsed line due to bad fuel here in Ireland.
Can anyone shed some light?
I’ve no return just 2 outlets coming of the tank one is blocked and the other routed up through the trunk floor.
Any help really appreciated
Thanns
Cian

 

[Fury1969WI]

I pulled my (very limited remaining) hair out trying to figure out why i wasn't getting fuel when i first put my car back together. Similar situation; all new lines, pump, tank, etc., etc. this was a full restoration of the entire car.

After some hours I realized/found I had left a Vice Grip (tm)/locking pliers on the soft line between the tank and the hard line ... i guess I wanted to pinch the fuel off while i was disassembling something further up the line. Anyway, this gave me a flashback to that issue, not very helpful i know!

I do have a few thoughts;

I wonder if you're using actual fuel hose at those soft connections. If just rubber that can collapse. You don't need fuel injection grade but you do need fuel grade.

It sounds like you primed the pump, using a fuel can, but make sure the pump isn't sucking air/air locked. Sometimes priming the carb will get it to fire and then the pump will suck enough.

If you're getting fuel only halfway up the line that might be telling. At the 1/2 way point the vacuum is finding an easier way, maybe look for a small leak after that point, towards the engine.

Make sure those hose connections between the various hard lines aren't kinked.

I kinda doubt gas cap is the issue, but see if taking that off allows fuel to flow. They sell vented and unvented caps but i don't know which is for which.

good luck!

 

[Cianmini1]

Hi thanks for your reply,
I definitely don’t have something blocking off any of the lines anyways.
I’m using braided rubber line the whole way from the sender up to the fuel pump and was working fine for a year.
But I’ve found metal braided since that I’ve used for my ATF Lines it’s Teflon coated and I want to use that it’s good for ethanol etc so I’m gonna change that.
Yes I’ve tried priming the carb with no joy.
And I’ve tried taking off the fuel cap no joy.
Mine is vented with a small hole in it.
And no kinks either.

 

[Fury1969WI]

Hi thanks for your reply,
I definitely don’t have something blocking off any of the lines anyways.
I’m using braided rubber line the whole way from the sender up to the fuel pump and was working fine for a year.
But I’ve found metal braided since that I’ve used for my ATF Lines it’s Teflon coated and I want to use that it’s good for ethanol etc so I’m gonna change that.
Yes I’ve tried priming the carb with no joy.
And I’ve tried taking off the fuel cap no joy.
Mine is vented with a small hole in it.
And no kinks either.

From your reply (#3); "... I’m using braided rubber line the whole way from the sender up to the fuel pump..."

Is that fuel grade line? My hunch is it's not and after a year it is degrading and just collapsing at the 1/2 way point.

Good luck. ALways enjoy hearing how these things get resolved!

PS - have family from Cork, County Mayo, and Castlerea. hope to get that way sometime

 

[Davea Lux]

There is a short rubber hose where the fuel line goes into the stub frame at the front of the car at about the passenger seat, did you replace that hose? If the hose is good, if you have access to a smoke generator, disconnect the line at the fuel sensor and at the fuel pump. plug the line at the fuel sensor and attach the smoke generator to the rubber hose at the fuel pump. With the smoke unit running, work your way back to the rear of the car and see if smoke is leaking out anyplace, that will be the source of the vacuum leak. If you do not have a smoke generator, you can use one of those small hand held vacuum pumps to test the line to see if it holds vacuum with the line plugged at the rear of the car. If you had the car running from a fuel can, sometimes a weak fuel pump will pump enough fuel to run the car with the can positioned above the pump as it will siphon fuel that way. Put the can on the floor and see of you are still getting fuel that way. Good luck.

Dave

 

[Cianmini1]

There is a short rubber hose where the fuel line goes into the stub frame at the front of the car at about the passenger seat, did you replace that hose? If the hose is good, if you have access to a smoke generator, disconnect the line at the fuel sensor and at the fuel pump. plug the line at the fuel sensor and attach the smoke generator to the rubber hose at the fuel pump. With the smoke unit running, work your way back to the rear of the car and see if smoke is leaking out anyplace, that will be the source of the vacuum leak. If you do not have a smoke generator, you can use one of those small hand held vacuum pumps to test the line to see if it holds vacuum with the line plugged at the rear of the car. If you had the car running from a fuel can, sometimes a weak fuel pump will pump enough fuel to run the car with the can positioned above the pump as ic will siphon fuel that way. Put the can on the floor and see of you are still getting fuel that way. Good luck.

Dave

Hi thanks for these suggestions I will check them all out
Thanks

 

[CBODY67]

Stainless steel braided "anything" line looks neat, BUT that exterior braiding only protects the inner rubber hose from abrasion and such. It does NOT make it a better hose. The rubber inside still needs to be rated to carry fuel. It can still collapse internally after the ethanol-content fuel has been drying it out, from the inside out, for the year.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[Cianmini1]

Stainless steel braided "anything" line looks neat, BUT that exterior braiding only protects the inner rubber hose from abrasion and such. It does NOT make it a better hose. The rubber inside still needs to be rated to carry fuel. It can still collapse internally after the ethanol-content fuel has been drying it out, from the inside out, for the year.

Take care,
CBODY67

Thanks for this

 

[66 Monaco 500 365]

It could be a hole in a line, that will let air in, but not drip.
My friend had this happen.
My $.02

 

[Cianmini1]

It could be a hole in a line, that will let air in, but not drip.
My friend had this happen.
My $.02

Thank you very much
I’m going to replace it anyways so hopefully it’s the issue.
Cheers

 

[MoPar~Man]

I’ve no return just 2 outlets coming of the tank one is blocked and the other routed up through the trunk floor.

Regarding those 2 ports on the back of the tank -

One of them is supposed to go to a short loop of pipe, maybe 8 to 10 inches total length. From the port it takes a 90 degree bend up, then makes a circle loop and ends up pointing down. There should be a clip on the body that holds the circle part. I made a new one for my '67 Monaco, using 3/16 copper brake line, and I pinched the end somewhat to reduce the open area.

The other line does go into the trunk, where it connects via short hose to another pipe that quite frankly I've never traced where that one goes so it's a mystery to me what it's supposed to accomplish.

These pipes allow air into the tank so you don't create a vacuum in the tank when the fuel pump is pulling fuel. My gas cap is sealed (I think I would hate a vented cap - gas would be leaking out of it I would think). I suspect that you are creating a vacuum in the tank and causing fuel starvation to the engine. Or at least you should rule that out.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thank you very much
I’m going to replace it anyways so hopefully it’s the issue.
Cheers

You will do well to find good steel tubing to replace as much of your fuel line as possible. Stainless is best. 8 mm should do you alright, or 10 if you really want the fuel to rush to the carb in quantity. Use rubber line only where impermanent connections need be made, like fr the sending unit at the tank, the midpoint in the body, then in the engine compartment at the fuel pump, each side of your fuel filter,and maybe one last short bit connecting the steel line to the carb itself if you lack flared tubing fittings for that. Aluminum tubing can work, copper deteriorates with vibration over time, but in a pinch it will do too.

Here in the North American Empire, thre's an outfit called Inline Tube that makes model specific replica tubing. I used their product for my engine compartment, from fuel pump to a Carter AVS type carb, for a 1968 Newport. Now, my Edelbrock 1405 is a wee mite different from its ancestor, but 50 mm of 3/8" rubber fuel hose there completed the connection more economically than Edelbrock's kits. I say Inline Tube makes the most cost effective product if you want a model specific replacement. Check 'em out.

P.S. 3/4 of my blood comes from Cork and Mayo. Erin go bragh!

 

[Cianmini1]

You will do well to find good steel tubing to replace as much of your fuel line as possible. Stainless is best. 8 mm should do you alright, or 10 if you really want the fuel to rush to the carb in quantity. Use rubber line only where impermanent connections need be made, like fr the sending unit at the tank, the midpoint in the body, then in the engine compartment at the fuel pump, each side of your fuel filter,and maybe one last short bit connecting the steel line to the carb itself if you lack flared tubing fittings for that. Aluminum tubing can work, copper deteriorates with vibration over time, but in a pinch it will do too.

Here in the North American Empire, thre's an outfit called Inline Tube that makes model specific replica tubing. I used their product for my engine compartment, from fuel pump to a Carter AVS type carb, for a 1968 Newport. Now, my Edelbrock 1405 is a wee mite different from its ancestor, but 50 mm of 3/8" rubber fuel hose there completed the connection more economically than Edelbrock's kits. I say Inline Tube makes the most cost effective product if you want a model specific replacement. Check 'em out.

P.S. 3/4 of my blood comes from Cork and Mayo. Erin go bragh!

Thought I’d fill you guys in!
Turned out to be a bad fuel line was only put in last year but seems it must have had a pin hole in it which it was losing vaccum from and wouldn’t pull fuel the entire way up the car.
We use E10 graded fuel
Here and it’s terrible.
New ethanol Teflon graded line and it’s good again!
Just primed the carb and it sucked Fuel straight away!
Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thought I’d fill you guys in!
Turned out to be a bad fuel line was only put in last year but seems it must have had a pin hole in it which it was losing vaccum from and wouldn’t pull fuel the entire way up the car.

Uh huh. Steel still would be better than PTFE lined hose, but at least you got your rod running again, and THAT's the Main Thing!

We use E10 graded fuel
Here and it’s terrible.

No doubt. Modern Yuppies and hipsters like cooperative owned super-dooper markets like Costco here, but THEIR petrol was the WORST I ever gave Gertrude. Walmart gas does decently, surprisingly enough. I normally run Chevron's soup, with the 91 "octane" rating. That one does pretty well in Old Gertie's 915 heads.

New ethanol Teflon graded line and it’s good again!
Just primed the carb and it sucked Fuel straight away!
Thanks for your help guys!