rags
Senior Member
again, right on the money.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
Put the upper ball joint nut on a few turns before you do this. I see from the pics it's off.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I used a torch last spring to heat up the eyes of both rear leaf springs so I could remove bolts that had practically rusted in place over the last forty some odd years..didnt bother the rubber that was in there much either, surprisingly...but it sure did expand and loosen the metal...
Don't use the torch. Bad for the ball joint.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I use this method all the time, trust me it works. Sometimes it works better with a smaller hammer I use anywhere from a 16oz to a 32oz hammer.In fifty years, I have never been able too remove a suspension or steering taper fit with a "tap-tap". Ever.
twostick
Senior Member
It seems to depend on the car. Some I've been able to just smack the knuckle hard with a BFH right at the taper and it just pops.
I was taught in shop class many decades ago to use 2 hammers, one held like an anvil against the knuckle and the other to beat the knuckle directly across from it (again at the taper) and it would pop. REAL awkward making that work in tight quarters without bloodshed tho. Usually worked best on tie rod ends.
The other method I've had success with on stubborn ones is to have someone get between the control arm and the knuckle with a long bar and pry down on it while you whale on it with the BFH. If you get a good purchase with the bar, it puts pressure down on the spindle and pressure up on the control arm and if you land a solid blow with the hammer it's game over.
No tapping tho. You have to hit it like you mean it.
Kevin
I was taught in shop class many decades ago to use 2 hammers, one held like an anvil against the knuckle and the other to beat the knuckle directly across from it (again at the taper) and it would pop. REAL awkward making that work in tight quarters without bloodshed tho. Usually worked best on tie rod ends.
The other method I've had success with on stubborn ones is to have someone get between the control arm and the knuckle with a long bar and pry down on it while you whale on it with the BFH. If you get a good purchase with the bar, it puts pressure down on the spindle and pressure up on the control arm and if you land a solid blow with the hammer it's game over.
No tapping tho. You have to hit it like you mean it.
Kevin
Does this Rule also Apply in the Bedroom?
traintech55
Senior Member
If you want to keep your lady happy you had better hit it like you mean it.
Hit it hard and hit it often
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Yeah what he said.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
65Fury440
Senior Member
Use that hole to open wider
I've never used one of those.
It looks pretty simple though.... Open it up farther by pulling the pivot pin out and installing it in the other hole.
I'd try it by "loading" the ball joint stud and then giving the knuckle a rap with the BFH, just like we've showed you.
It looks pretty simple though.... Open it up farther by pulling the pivot pin out and installing it in the other hole.
I'd try it by "loading" the ball joint stud and then giving the knuckle a rap with the BFH, just like we've showed you.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
BTW, wear some safety glasses when doing this and especially using that Harbor Fright Chinese thing.
I'd also grease the pocket the jack screw goes in on that tool... Just 'cause.
I'd also grease the pocket the jack screw goes in on that tool... Just 'cause.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Check
Check
Check
&
Check
Check
Check
&
Check
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
GOT the sumbitch!
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