Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

[70_NPORT]

Yes the passenger side exhaust manifold is a royal *****. The only way to get proper clearance is to remove the engine mount to frame bolt and carefully raise the engine to get clearance from the upper control arm. Use a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan to do this.

Yea OR remove the head, lol....which is what I did, of course that means removing a whole bunch of other stuff. Think the manifolds are gonna stay as is this time around.

 

[commando1]

Yes, especially since the thread on this brake swap has hit almost 30 pages and you're still not done...

 

[70_NPORT]

Yes, especially since the thread on this brake swap has hit almost 30 pages and you're still not done...

........

 

[commando1]

Actually, not being a Fusie guy myself, I'm learning quite a bit here.

 

[70_NPORT]

I swear this fitting must of grown right out of the DB....I guess years and years of grime, grease, heat and cold have sealed it. Any tricks to crack this? A small spritz of pb blaster yesterday did nothing.

 

[67-Fury]

Vice Grips maybe.

When buying Flare Wrenchs you really want the Best. I went on E-Bay and got some Used Snap on Wrenvhs and man they are Great.

 

[commando1]

I've perfected the technique for these SOB's..

Small needle nose vise-grips (only!).
Squirt can of 50/50 acetone and ATF.
BunzoMatic.

Clamp down TIGHT on the flats of the hex head.
Heat. Squirt. Wiggle back and forth in micro-nano increments.
Repeat and repeat and repeat in ever larger increments until it turns with minimal resistance.

It will come out clean, undamaged and reusable.

Wrenches are guaranteed to round off hex of the soft brass. Use the sm. needle nose vice grips.

 

[70_NPORT]

I've perfected the technique for these SOB's..

Small needle nose vise-grips (only!).
Squirt can of 50/50 acetone and ATF.
BunzoMatic.

Clamp down TIGHT on the flats of the hex head.
Heat. Squirt. Wiggle back and forth in micro-nano increments.
Repeat and repeat and repeat in ever larger increments until it turns with minimal resistance.

It will come out clean, undamaged and reusable.

Wrenches are guaranteed to round off hex of the soft brass. Use the sm. needle nose vice grips.

Yup, exactly...not good, the wrench head was slipping like it was ice.
Thx!

 

[Big_John]

Keep in mind, that is the odd size nut in the system. If you break the tube, you are going to have to make a double flare on some new tubing.

Do you really need to take it apart?

 

[70_NPORT]

Keep in mind, that is the odd size nut in the system. If you break the tube, you are going to have to make a double flare on some new tubing.

Do you really need to take it apart?

Actually I just realized I have a five port DB, not 4. I would assume that matters.

 

[Big_John]

All you are going to do is put the proportioning valve in the rear brake line. Correct?

 

[70_NPORT]

All you are going to do is put the proportioning valve in the rear brake line. Correct?

I think that's the deal IF I understand correctly. Here's my DB layout...its different than Steve's. There are two lines out to the discs; one aft to the drums, and two up to the MC.

 

[70_NPORT]

The exist line from the rear brakes will connect to the "out" side of the PV. The line from the front port on the MC will connect to the "in" side of the PV. That port on the DB will get a plug.

 

[Big_John]

Then you don't need to disconnect that line going up to the master that you are having trouble with.

Just get a short piece of 3/16 brake line from NAPA. The ones with the fittings already in place. Disconnect the rear line from the block and connect to the new valve and then the new piece of line from the valve to the distribution block.

 

[Big_John]

The exist line from the rear brakes will connect to the "out" side of the PV. The line from the front port on the MC will connect to the "in" side of the PV. That port on the DB will get a plug.

Why bypass the distribution block?? That makes no sense at all.

 

[commando1]

Will this help?

 

[commando1]

 

[70_NPORT]

View attachment 77554 View attachment 77555 Will this help?

View attachment 77554

Figure Three in the second pic looks like my DB.

 

[Big_John]

Figure Three in the second pic looks like my DB.

And there ya go... One little piece of tube in the "outlet to rear brakes" to the proportioning valve and you're done. No breaking the tubing or fittings. No new flares.

 

[commando1]

Figure Three in the second pic looks like my DB.