70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I guess I wanna keep that.
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
Yep. Remember from high school physics how vacuum works... It's the atmospheric pressure outside pushing on the low pressure area inside (vacuum) that does the work.
You can buy the filter covers (found them on ebay), but I don't think you can buy the filters. The filter is just foam. Looks like yours was long gone. As has been said, you don't really need it, but it did have a purpose.
You can buy the filter covers (found them on ebay), but I don't think you can buy the filters. The filter is just foam. Looks like yours was long gone. As has been said, you don't really need it, but it did have a purpose.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
ok...got it. Mine was so covered with crude and oil I couldnt tell wut the heck it was really. Thx.
Was mentioned here last week regarding painting exhaust manifolds ... I think it's an Eastwood product and you paint it on with a brush. Looks like cast iron (which is color I was thinking of by painting them).
I forget the name of product or thread but someone will remember
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
that would be convinent, need more por15 from them as well.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Yeah that's it
Might as well do the manifolds too the 
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
thatll do nicely
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
- KEEP THE SPACER.
- Clean as much of that crud on the booster. Is that grease or is it crusty? Remember the diaphragm is RUBBER and with age it will get brittle and susceptible to cracks.
- You do have a small threaded end on the shaft that inserts into the master so it can be lengthened or shortened as needed.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
1. CHECK
- KEEP THE SPACER.
- Clean as much of that crud on the booster. Is that grease or is it crusty? Remember the diaphragm is RUBBER and with age it will get brittle and susceptible to cracks.
- You do have a small threaded end on the shaft that inserts into the master so it can be lengthened or shortened as needed.
2. There was a little bit of oily grime and dirt, but nothing was crusty. The rubber is still smooth and in pretty good shape from whut I can tell.
3. This is good.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
- Can't tell exactly, but is that a retaining clip @ the plunger on the new mc?
- Bench bleed the master
- Use a tooth-pik or something to measure the depth of both mc's plunger from the FLAT of the base for comparison
- Your boosters rod is adjusted for the old mc and you don't want it to be adjusted too short (insufficient braking) OR too long (will hang up your brakes)
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Theres no retaining clip on the back of the new MC.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
When you bench bleed the master the plunger may come out a bit...
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Mocking up Prop valve position
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Mount the prop valve in a position where you can easily connect the Rear Brake line to it. You also need to pay attention to where the line from the MC connects to the DB & also the INLET side of the prop valve. You want to choose a position where you'll have to make the least amount of bends.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
I also used rubber grommets between the fender and the prop valve
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
So the stuff to cover the MC showed up yesterday; apparently this is also good for coating exhaust manifolds. In fact the destructions say its not necessary to remove the manifolds to apply. If I do that I'm gonna remove the manifolds anyway..just seems better to get at the entire manifold that way. They make this stuff smell like breath mints or something....as if it were edible. Don't know who would try to eat this....but ok, wutever. So I'll "attempt" to apply this to the MC since there are other parts I'm still waiting on.
The manifolds; not sure about those. The pass side manifold is a total freak-n ***** to remove since the motor is closer to the fender on that side and I only have one new exhaust gasket hanging around. (and don't tell me I don't need gaskets; they made a huge difference when I put them on last summer).
The manifolds; not sure about those. The pass side manifold is a total freak-n ***** to remove since the motor is closer to the fender on that side and I only have one new exhaust gasket hanging around. (and don't tell me I don't need gaskets; they made a huge difference when I put them on last summer).
traintech55
Senior Member
Yes the passenger side exhaust manifold is a royal *****. The only way to get proper clearance is to remove the engine mount to frame bolt and carefully raise the engine to get clearance from the upper control arm. Use a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan to do this.
Similar threads
