70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
#2 Extreme press/high temp lithium grease good Stan?
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I dunno. The red stuff... lol
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Ok...thanks once again traintech55....adding to list.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Maroon. ok. close enough
traintech55
Senior Member
Your Welcome.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
So here is the current pwr brake booster....trash or keeper? (yeh the whole rig is grungy)
traintech55
Senior Member
I looked up on AutoZone's site and they show different ones for drum and disc brakes. I looked up a picture and it looks identical to the 67 - 68 one I put on my 300. Now for my personal spin on this, I have owned over 40 Chrysler vehicles over the years, numerous 1969's. I had a 69 Newport that I had a wreck with because of a bad power booster, (Jammed in the applied position). Spend the time and use the correct parts and safely enjoy you ride. It is getting harder to find crash parts for them.
I am sure others have already commented on this, as I am still two pages behind. But even so....
Against some advice I used my drum brake booster. I've had ZERO problems with it. None. So, my advice, if you don't want to go thorough the hassle and expense of replacing your booster, don't.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
RockAuto only shows one booster.
The bottom line: you need a dual diaphragm booster.
Yours looks like a dual diaphragm.
Is it still working good? Leave it.
On the other hand, how much life is left in that booster.
Now would be the ideal time for another one if you don't mind a little extra work now instead of a lot more work later.
I know... I was no help.
The bottom line: you need a dual diaphragm booster.
Yours looks like a dual diaphragm.
Is it still working good? Leave it.
On the other hand, how much life is left in that booster.
Now would be the ideal time for another one if you don't mind a little extra work now instead of a lot more work later.
I know... I was no help.
Check the bolts. If they are rusted, replace them. However, you will not be able to find (unless they are better available on the East Coast than they are here) the carriage bolts with the holes for cotter pins. I use two sets of nuts on the back of each bolt.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
AAAArrrggh!RockAuto only shows one booster.
The bottom line: you need a dual diaphragm booster.
Yours looks like a dual diaphragm.
Is it still working good? Leave it.
On the other hand, how much life is left in that booster.
Now would be the ideal time for another one if you don't mind a little extra work now instead of a lot more work later.
I know... I was no help.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
This is what makes the hobby so interesting....
traintech55
Senior Member
AutoZone shows both boosters. the one for disc brakes is $ 102.99 with a $63.00 core. If it is out there for that price why take a chance.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Its not so much the money as it is just doing this swap right...the first time....because there may not get to be a second time.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Gary, I had ONE leaf spring bushing squeek. Just one.
Look at where I went with that.
I had ONE sticky lifter. Just one.
Look at where I went with that.
I dinged my wheel opening lip.
Look at where I went with that.
I......
Look at where I went with that.
I had ONE sticky lifter. Just one.
Look at where I went with that.
I dinged my wheel opening lip.
Look at where I went with that.
I......
twostick
Senior Member
Can't remember if I commented on the single vs dual diaphragm on this thread earlier or not but here's something to consider.
IF the single in fact provides enough boost for discs, why would the factory go to the expense of specing a dual. They will absolutely positively never spend an extra nickel unless it's necessary.
Get the dual or at the very least get a 15/16" master cylinder to maximise the line pressure.
Kevin
IF the single in fact provides enough boost for discs, why would the factory go to the expense of specing a dual. They will absolutely positively never spend an extra nickel unless it's necessary.
Get the dual or at the very least get a 15/16" master cylinder to maximise the line pressure.
Kevin
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
So, I made excellent progress today.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
15/16 these are not A bodies, I think the stock m/c for a 71 Newport is 1 1/32 bore this is what I used on my Challenger as a upgrade, high solid pedal. My 2 cents.
twostick
Senior Member
15/16 is usually spec'd for manual brakes. Smaller piston makes more pressure at the expense of more pedal travel.
I would just use the correct booster and be done with it. The factory didn't pick that spec just because.
Kevin
I would just use the correct booster and be done with it. The factory didn't pick that spec just because.
Kevin
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
You took a tire off...
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